Mods and upgrades
Mods and upgrades
Author
Discussion

sunoco69

Original Poster:

5,274 posts

194 months

Saturday 11th June 2011
quotequote all
Ok so having driven my 3R a bit and read a lot of the posts on here it is obvious that there are improvements that can be made to this car. The tunnel mod springs to mind as I am melting in the cab. Also the exhaust manifolds as I already have had one crack.
So what are the top 5 best improvements/mod/upgrades to make and what order should they be done in?

hoyin

1,233 posts

266 months

Saturday 11th June 2011
quotequote all
Change headlights to HID (so you can see at night)
Change the oil breather to a new Pro Alloy one (your old one will be very rusty inside)

For me the those were the essentials. I think the other stuff is just for power.

I've learnt not to touch stuff if it ain't broke, because sometimes you can make things worse! And above all I want a reliable car.

Daisy Duke

1,510 posts

230 months

Saturday 11th June 2011
quotequote all
I would have thought a new exhaust and new intercooler would be at the top of your list (assuming your car is completely standard).

sunoco69

Original Poster:

5,274 posts

194 months

Saturday 11th June 2011
quotequote all
No it has the following:

Roush Exhaust
Trevor Jasper re-map
track-day sump
Nitron shocks.

As far as I know thats it.

RobP

2,097 posts

270 months

Saturday 11th June 2011
quotequote all
1. Tunnel mod.
2. Pro-Alloy intercooler (plus hardpipe kit)
3. Machined uprights and geo set up (Jetstream)
4. HIDs
5. Silicon hoses

Nothing here particularly sexy or expensive but these changes will improve comfort, drivability and reliability.
If you intend to do a lot of track work, I would then move to more cooling mods (oil and gearbox coolers plus uprated box), uprated pads (Pagid RS 29s) grooved disks plus much instruction! And very last of all, I would start to look for more power. In 7 yrs of Noble ownership i havn't looked for 1 extra bhp (that yellowshed couldn'd already extract from a standard engine), as hunting for power generally means that power hunts for the next weak component, and whilst you may go slightly quicker in a straight line (just before you break something), you probably won't be much quicker round a track.

Rob_W

1,070 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
Fuel pump wiring

Blu3R

2,380 posts

228 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
1) Floor re-seal
2) Boxster hub nuts
3) Alloy oil catch tank
4) Tunnel mod
5) Fuel pump wiring

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
1. Fuel pump wiring(essential mod)
2. Intercooler upgrade
3. Tunnel cooling(essential mod)
4. Venting wheel arches
5. New or Strenghtened headers(essential mod)
6. Heat insulate fuel lines, rail and tank
7. Upgrade/replace all coolant hoses
8. Replace silicon turbo oil return pipes
9. Machine uprights and shim to improve geo setup
10.Seal IC and radiator to clams with foam strips
11.Oil/air cooler
12.Pro alloy radiator
13.HIDS
14.Upgrade hub nuts
15.Modify fuel tank, reposition outlet, put proper baffles inside(essential mod)
16.Upgrade/replace ARV(essential mod)
17.Reseal floor pan
18.Recondition chassis where rusted, usually in engine bay/rear clip
19.Recondition rusty wishbones.
20. Heat insulate/shield IC box

If you are wanting to upgrade power then that would require a different list, the above are not necessarily listed in order of importance, and some are easier to carry out than others, i.e. number 10 is a very simple mod but offers significant results, it depends on waht are you would prefer to spend your money, improving cooling, reliability, handling or being able to see at night,smile but i have highlighted what i believe is the top 5 essential mods out of them.

16 is an essential mod due to these going faulty on quite a fwe owners cars and can result in fuel starvation.
1 is an essential mod due to voltage drops on inadequate wiring which can lead to fuel starvation
3 is essential due to wiring being scorched and melted in the tunnel.
15 is essential due to kinks in fuel line occuring and poorly designed baffles in fuel tank leading to fuel starvation
5 is essential due to the fact that the cracks will reoccur and eventually flakes of metal can damage turbos.

Recommended upgrades are coolant hoses and turbo oil returns, hub nuts etc.. but if you want you can remedy these areas as they come, but it may be better not to wait for a coolant leak or oil leak from returns or a cracked radiator, as sods law says the car will let you down when you are in the worst possible situation, i.e. in a desolate location.
Most of others we are going into the improvements stage, improving cooling, improving reliability, maintaining optimal performance in high temps etc...

sunoco69

Original Poster:

5,274 posts

194 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
I defo agree on the tunnel and fuel mods. Mine is like an oven and sometimes it wont start as the fuel pump seems not to work, always kicks in after a while but really annoying.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
In that case i would possibly look into replacing fuel pump aswell.

wessexrfc

4,326 posts

215 months

Sunday 12th June 2011
quotequote all
sunoco69 said:
No it has the following:

Roush Exhaust
Trevor Jasper re-map
track-day sump
Nitron shocks.

As far as I know thats it.
I would add:

Pro-alloy inter cooler - medium cost
Up-rated manifolds - medium cost
Wiring upgrade to fuel pump - low cost
HID head lights (a must for anyone) - low cost
Tunnel mod - low cost
Porsche rear hub nut - low cost
Uprated valve springs - med (depending how far you go) cost
Turbo upgrade to 28's - high cost
Remap - med cost
Silicone cooling pipe upgrade - med cost
Pro-alloy oil catch tank - med cost
Pro-alloy rad
Pro-alloy expanstion tank - med cost

I,ve done all these mods and upgrades over the last few years. As buying groups have appeared I've used them to get a good price, but to be fair, most of the companys we have used will give you a good discount if you were looking at upgrading a few items at the same time.



sunoco69

Original Poster:

5,274 posts

194 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
Ok I get the point about hub nuts now. After handbrake shoe replacement a horrible noise appeared. Garage kept saying the shoes need to bed in but I knew it was something else!
Loose hub nut!

Lucozade

2,574 posts

308 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
I've just had the turbo boost switch done and the Tuxman go faster sticker put on. Amazingly I can certainly feel difference.

TuxMan

9,011 posts

267 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
Lucozade said:
I've just had the turbo boost switch done and the Tuxman go faster sticker put on. Amazingly I can certainly feel difference.
Told you ..... Worth 50bhp ....... laughlaugh

AverageMPH

493 posts

191 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
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How much does the dual Oil Pressure/Temp gauge cost, fitted?

Edited by AverageMPH on Sunday 17th July 19:34

Blu3R

2,380 posts

228 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
AverageMPH said:
How much does the dual Oil Pressure/Temp gauge cost, fitted?

Edited by AverageMPH on Sunday 17th July 19:34
Nearly an arm and a leg.

I doubt you'll get change from £300 for the Noble branded gauge.

anotherdom

535 posts

197 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
... and I believe only the TDS is tapped for the sensor?

TuxMan

9,011 posts

267 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
anotherdom said:
... and I believe only the TDS is tapped for the sensor?
Yep STD sump does not have the adapter to allow fitment of the temp bulb .

Blu3R

2,380 posts

228 months

Sunday 17th July 2011
quotequote all
Just drill and tap the sump plug. I've done it before and it's fine so long as you take it easy at oil change time.