Facia Removal

[Acrowe]

Can anyone help? I have got all the nuts off the back of the facia panel but it now wont come out due to almost no play in the cables going to the heater controls. I cannot pull the panel out far enough to see how these cables are connected, can anyone help?

I thought getting the fuel tank out and in was a pig of a job, but it is nothing compared to getting that facia panel off!

[tonyvan]

Cut them with a junior hacksaw.u wont need them.replace with ones at least 35mm

[TuxMan]

Hi Andrew , you need to undo the small nuts that hold the heater dials to the face plate , they are at the sides . Tux

[funkybmx1]

One of Tony's dash. If his got more photos I'll put them up to. His ideas has helped alot for getting this on and off easier

[funkybmx1]

One a bit further back

[daddysumo]

As tux said , you can just get to the nut on the studs behind the heater controls.
Replacing is a bugger but between Tony Van,Grant and myself we have come up with a nice idea.
Im sure Tony will post up pics and an explanation.

[Acrowe]

daddysumo said:

As tux said , you can just get to the nut on the studs behind the heater controls.
Replacing is a bugger but between Tony Van,Grant and myself we have come up with a nice idea.
Im sure Tony will post up pics and an explanation.

Thanks guys, I will have a go tomorrow. Steve I will need to add my name to your carbon facia group once I have decided what I actually need.

[Rob_W]

Well I've got the three at the top and the one on the warning light side off but can't even feel the other two though I have the photos to show where they are. Any tips/hints/advice would be very much appreciated.......P..l..e..a..s..e!!!!

[Metalman]

When I done mine (gto3) a couple of years ago I undone a couple of screws at the base of the centre console so I could pull it out to get my arm in there, made it much easier. The screws are hidden by the carpet. Where the carpet comes up to meet the dash (I think the 3r has a knee pad here?) pull the carpet back and there are two screws. Sorry if that's not written too clearly but I hope that's of some help?

[Jim O.]

Have you been able to spot the fasteners with a mirror and a light? I seem to remember popping out the switches made it easier to guide a socket on an extension to one of the fasteners...

Edited by Jim O. on Saturday 10th March 19:38

[Rob_W]

Thanks for the ideas guys (and good to see you posting Jim,have missed your words of wisdom), will renew the battle tomorrow.

Any more ideas welcome....

[Blu3R]

Rob_W said:

Any more ideas welcome....

Ahem... Please don't break it

[Rob_W]

Blu3R said:

Rob_W said:

Any more ideas welcome....

Ahem... Please don't break it

I'm sure the hacksaw marks will polish out

[hoyin]

If I want to replace the indicators are they a straight swap with something nicer?

Where can I get them from? Are they the same size?

[Jamescmr2]

As i don't really want to keep the old cover will it not be a lot easier for me to just take a grinder to it and cut it off! At least get a hole in to help me un bolt it! i know that's a bit rough but might save a shed load of time! ha

cheers

James

[Rob_W]

Just finished getting mine off and found that trimming a little bit off the front edges of the tunnel (used an oscillating saw) made it relatively easy and I only wish I'd done it sooner. DOn't think you would ever spot the difference.





PS Don't ask what the funny splatter is on the second picture, was like that when I got it.

[Rob_W]

Sorry, next dumb question; How is the oil temp gauge connection removed, is it just a push fit, do you need to slacken/remove the two brass screws on the body....??

[anotherdom]

Temp bulb is connected to the Bourdon tube by a capillary, generally filled with ether. In short, the temp bulb isn't disconnected!

Dom.

[daddysumo]

Rob_W said:

Sorry, next dumb question; How is the oil temp gauge connection removed, is it just a push fit, do you need to slacken/remove the two brass screws on the body....??

Sit down..... you have to remove the two brass screws then the u shaped clamp will pull off the two screws... now you have to go to the engine,undo the oil line from the block, cap the block to stop oil from escaping, then pull the oil line up the tunnel undoing tyraps as reqd,through the hole in the top of the tunnel,then out through the old fascia.
then back through the hole in the new fascia etc... have fun.

[Rob_W]

daddysumo said:

Rob_W said:

Sorry, next dumb question; How is the oil temp gauge connection removed, is it just a push fit, do you need to slacken/remove the two brass screws on the body....??

Sit down..... you have to remove the two brass screws then the u shaped clamp will pull off the two screws... now you have to go to the engine,undo the oil line from the block, cap the block to stop oil from escaping, then pull the oil line up the tunnel undoing tyraps as reqd,through the hole in the top of the tunnel,then out through the old fascia.
then back through the hole in the new fascia etc... have fun.

That's funny I don't remember the bloke that sold me the new facia mentioning it might be a little tricky to fit.

These were the brass screws (not nuts that I meant;)




At least I'm glad I haven't got the floor back on so tunnel access is as easy as it gets i.e. horrible instead of impossible!