Pre- Remap preparation
Discussion
I've been rebuilding my M12 for a year, and I'm organising the remap with Yellowshed for early May. I just can't wait to drive it again, and I'm nervous before my first remap.
Final prep before the remap means I'm just about to put the new exhaust on, and I'd like to know what type of horsepower I should safely aim for with the mods I've done???.....
-Pro alloy intercooler
-Quaife diff and shot peen and polish to 5 speed box
-Stronger Valve springs (mountune)
-Helix clutch
-ARP headbolts
-Hard pipe kit
-Decat exhaust (yet to come)
(I've also done the fuel pump wiring upgrade, new proalloy header tank and pro-alloy oil breather. Not that they will affect performance really)
The exhaust and remap will just about have killed my budget. Am I missing something relatively obvious and cost effective? Say fuel pump upgrade?
The higher the numbers the higher the stress / heat, did you refesh the bottom end?
If not what mileage has it done? big numbers may be readily available but it all comes at a cost and a tired bearing journal is an easy target.
I'd go conservatively to begin with, think about what power YOU can handle rather than the car.
My cars engine was mapped at 800+ but now boost is reduced to give 500ish and it still scares me but it is far more driveable than with the full fat. I'd like to go a little lower but it's down to 3lb ish peak boost now.
Sometimes less is more.
If not what mileage has it done? big numbers may be readily available but it all comes at a cost and a tired bearing journal is an easy target.
I'd go conservatively to begin with, think about what power YOU can handle rather than the car.
My cars engine was mapped at 800+ but now boost is reduced to give 500ish and it still scares me but it is far more driveable than with the full fat. I'd like to go a little lower but it's down to 3lb ish peak boost now.
Sometimes less is more.
F.C. said:
My cars engine was mapped at 800+ but now boost is reduced to give 500ish and it still scares me but it is far more driveable than with the full fat. I'd like to go a little lower but it's down to 3lb ish peak boost now.
Sometimes less is more.
I presume you're referring to your Ultima?Sometimes less is more.
Thanks guys, I'll probably go for the fuel pump then, how hard are the injectors to replace? What spec are they?
I've just got the standard turbos for the GTO3 are they T25 or t28?
I did inspect the bottom end and had one of the bearings replaced, can't remember which one now since it was a year ago. Replaced the piston rings and hopefully it's good to go.
I would be happy with around 400 horses maybe towards 450 at a push, I want reliability. Could I get those figures with the standrd fuel pump and injectors? Yes Tux, I'm v nervous!
I've just got the standard turbos for the GTO3 are they T25 or t28?
I did inspect the bottom end and had one of the bearings replaced, can't remember which one now since it was a year ago. Replaced the piston rings and hopefully it's good to go.
I would be happy with around 400 horses maybe towards 450 at a push, I want reliability. Could I get those figures with the standrd fuel pump and injectors? Yes Tux, I'm v nervous!
Bosch 44 fuel pump fitted, what a difference! Even with the basic map....Thanks Dom. Smoother power delivery, more instant and smoother under throttle.
(The biggest difference though was from the NGK BR7EFS spark plugs!!! Trevor Jasper's recommend and they're amazing and only 15 quid!)
Going to jetstream for the 0.5 bar actuators to be fitted in my T25 turbos.
Exhaust at H and S.....same one as Tuxman, big bore and removeable baffles.
Re-map on 4th of May ....gulp!! (Emotions I can't describe)
Any last minute advice appreciated . (do I sound excited?
)))
(The biggest difference though was from the NGK BR7EFS spark plugs!!! Trevor Jasper's recommend and they're amazing and only 15 quid!)
Going to jetstream for the 0.5 bar actuators to be fitted in my T25 turbos.
Exhaust at H and S.....same one as Tuxman, big bore and removeable baffles.
Re-map on 4th of May ....gulp!! (Emotions I can't describe)
Any last minute advice appreciated . (do I sound excited?
)))Spoken with Trevor, and also booked in for the 3rd of May. Will be good to meet you, and any other support from local owners would I'm sure be appreciated!
Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
Edited by anotherdom on Saturday 14th April 18:04
anotherdom said:
Spoken with Trevor, and also booked in for the 4th of May. Will be good to meet you, and any other support from local owners would I'm sure be appreciated!
Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
Same spec as mine, you should expect 420bhp with about 430lbs ft from memory, you will notice the difference. Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
M12maniac said:
Any last minute advice appreciated . (do I sound excited? )))
I like to see at least a hundred miles (more is better...) of low speed stop-and-go city-type driving on a new clutch before I put a car on the dyno or do anything else that gets to the upper torque range - you want the pieces of the clutch fully mated to each other before you put max torque through it. Otherwise, if the clutch slips under load, you can get hotspots and glaze the lining material and cause permanent damage...)))Jim O. said:
I like to see at least a hundred miles (more is better...) of low speed stop-and-go city-type driving on a new clutch before I put a car on the dyno or do anything else that gets to the upper torque range - you want the pieces of the clutch fully mated to each other before you put max torque through it. Otherwise, if the clutch slips under load, you can get hotspots and glaze the lining material and cause permanent damage...
I'm just about to take some road trips! Was aiming for a couple of hundred at least. Thanks for the advice.anotherdom said:
Spoken with Trevor, and also booked in for the 4th of May. Will be good to meet you, and any other support from local owners would I'm sure be appreciated!
Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
Great news Dom.....see you there! All comers welcome!Car is similar spec to yours, but with modded T28 turbos. Torque will have to be capped, as I've yet to pull the gearbox and so clutch and cooling are standard. Should still be plenty quick enough, and with scope for further upgrade when the engine is lifted.
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