Cut out while reversing and now turns over but won't restart
Discussion
Hi Guys,
So I've been using the car for the past couple of days after the winter rebuild. All was well apart from a hesitation at part throttle, tending to appear if I reapplied after lifting off, and being possible to push through. Car running perfectly at WOT. I put the hesitation down to the fact it's been sitting for a while and perhaps the fuel's a bit old. I've run a tank and a half through it and had the hesitation on the way home but with the car still running well otherwise.
Dropped my colleague off, drove home, started to reverse into my parking space and suddenly had no throttle and after a few seconds the car cut out. Restarted, same thing. Pushed the car back outside and had a look at the bulkhead fuses. The fuel pump one seemed to be loose but not blown, I've swapped it out and the connection is fine now.
So I did a pretty detailed search and it came up with a few things to check:
Only one thing I've found - the water was a bit low but this is probably because I had some pipes off over winter and they've been filling back up.
I guess if the pump was switching on and off randomly it could have gone off while I was reversing, then as I fiddled with the fuse maybe it pumped a load of fuel in and flooded it? I've cranked it a hell of a lot and it's not started or even coughed like it might. The spark plug that I removed was dry, too.
So, yeah, bit stumped at the moment. I have a lift to work so don't need the car at the moment, just annoying really! Anyone got any other ideas?
I think RAC and a truck to Jetstream tomorrow at this rate!
So I've been using the car for the past couple of days after the winter rebuild. All was well apart from a hesitation at part throttle, tending to appear if I reapplied after lifting off, and being possible to push through. Car running perfectly at WOT. I put the hesitation down to the fact it's been sitting for a while and perhaps the fuel's a bit old. I've run a tank and a half through it and had the hesitation on the way home but with the car still running well otherwise.
Dropped my colleague off, drove home, started to reverse into my parking space and suddenly had no throttle and after a few seconds the car cut out. Restarted, same thing. Pushed the car back outside and had a look at the bulkhead fuses. The fuel pump one seemed to be loose but not blown, I've swapped it out and the connection is fine now.
So I did a pretty detailed search and it came up with a few things to check:
- I've checked the spark on one plug, all fine.
- Fuel pressure - fine
- Pump - priming
- Bulkhead Fuses - all OK - which one is which though?
- Bulkhead Relays ... ??? Couldn't find them.
- ECU - Don't have a serial port on my laptop annoyingly so will try that tomorrow.
Only one thing I've found - the water was a bit low but this is probably because I had some pipes off over winter and they've been filling back up.
I guess if the pump was switching on and off randomly it could have gone off while I was reversing, then as I fiddled with the fuse maybe it pumped a load of fuel in and flooded it? I've cranked it a hell of a lot and it's not started or even coughed like it might. The spark plug that I removed was dry, too.
So, yeah, bit stumped at the moment. I have a lift to work so don't need the car at the moment, just annoying really! Anyone got any other ideas?
I think RAC and a truck to Jetstream tomorrow at this rate!
Chapppers:
Resetting adaptive maps with Noble Software or EasiMap comes to mind as a logical thing to try when you find a serial port. Seems like a lot of owners are reporting adaptive map issues lately on Noble Forums. I have a problem myself whenever battery power has been disconnected -- the engine idles like crap and is hardly able to move the car. Resetting a-maps is the first thing I do after battery is reconnected, and it solves the problem.
Regarding air in the coolant. It's been highly recommended that you Noble owners use something like an Airlift to evacuate air from the coolant system prior to refilling. It avoids air pockets that can cause cooling issues in the Noble. Don't know this for sure, but having coolant tubes in the tunnel that are much lower than the engine and radiator might result in air pockets that never quite get eliminated unless you evacuate the air first. Just a thought.
Resetting adaptive maps with Noble Software or EasiMap comes to mind as a logical thing to try when you find a serial port. Seems like a lot of owners are reporting adaptive map issues lately on Noble Forums. I have a problem myself whenever battery power has been disconnected -- the engine idles like crap and is hardly able to move the car. Resetting a-maps is the first thing I do after battery is reconnected, and it solves the problem.
Regarding air in the coolant. It's been highly recommended that you Noble owners use something like an Airlift to evacuate air from the coolant system prior to refilling. It avoids air pockets that can cause cooling issues in the Noble. Don't know this for sure, but having coolant tubes in the tunnel that are much lower than the engine and radiator might result in air pockets that never quite get eliminated unless you evacuate the air first. Just a thought.
Thanks Bill, yeah that was the plan. I'll try that at work tomorrow now because...
IT RUNS!!!
Thanks to playalistic and Mr.Tuxman (who rang me up, actually). Basically I think the fuel pump fuse had lost connection, which made the car cut out in the first place. My prodding of said fuse then made the fuel pump prime about 6 times in a row and flooded the engine.
Solution: Unplug fuse, foot to floor crank engine over to evacuate all unwanted fuel. Fuse back in and started first time no problems! Silly car.
IT RUNS!!!
Thanks to playalistic and Mr.Tuxman (who rang me up, actually). Basically I think the fuel pump fuse had lost connection, which made the car cut out in the first place. My prodding of said fuse then made the fuel pump prime about 6 times in a row and flooded the engine.
Solution: Unplug fuse, foot to floor crank engine over to evacuate all unwanted fuel. Fuse back in and started first time no problems! Silly car.
D_G said:
I had a sortof similar issue where the car would peter out when hot (usually when maneuvering) and need the flat out treatment to restart. Yellowshed cured this via the remap, apparently my car had a very early map and the difference in drivability now is amazing.
I really need to speak to this man. I will start a barrage of PMs and see if I can organise something for May.Bill NobleUS206 said:
Chapppers:
Resetting adaptive maps with Noble Software or EasiMap comes to mind as a logical thing to try when you find a serial port. Seems like a lot of owners are reporting adaptive map issues lately on Noble Forums. I have a problem myself whenever battery power has been disconnected -- the engine idles like crap and is hardly able to move the car. Resetting a-maps is the first thing I do after battery is reconnected, and it solves the problem.
Regarding air in the coolant. It's been highly recommended that you Noble owners use something like an Airlift to evacuate air from the coolant system prior to refilling. It avoids air pockets that can cause cooling issues in the Noble. Don't know this for sure, but having coolant tubes in the tunnel that are much lower than the engine and radiator might result in air pockets that never quite get eliminated unless you evacuate the air first. Just a thought.
Bill,Resetting adaptive maps with Noble Software or EasiMap comes to mind as a logical thing to try when you find a serial port. Seems like a lot of owners are reporting adaptive map issues lately on Noble Forums. I have a problem myself whenever battery power has been disconnected -- the engine idles like crap and is hardly able to move the car. Resetting a-maps is the first thing I do after battery is reconnected, and it solves the problem.
Regarding air in the coolant. It's been highly recommended that you Noble owners use something like an Airlift to evacuate air from the coolant system prior to refilling. It avoids air pockets that can cause cooling issues in the Noble. Don't know this for sure, but having coolant tubes in the tunnel that are much lower than the engine and radiator might result in air pockets that never quite get eliminated unless you evacuate the air first. Just a thought.
Where did you get the cables so taht i can plug in my laptop..i want to reset the adaptive map and i have the 1.3 easimap software.. just do not have the cable..
Cheers
Chris
My car just stopped running too! I've just been moving it in and out of the workshop for months. Same as you, checked fuses, fuel pressuer in the rail, tried 'easy start' spray in the throttle manifold.....nothing.
It was the spark plugs! Completely fouled up from over fueling. The car always smokes on startup, I need the newer map, seeing trevor jasper very soon!
Well the car was also not running right at all and on Trevor's advice put NGK BR7EFS plugs in....the difference is bloody amazing! I had some super duper iridium plugs in there and they were total rubbish. Try the new plugs! Run the car properly when you start it, get it warm so the plugs don't get fouled with fuel. Then the new map when you can. It worked for me, running so much better! Wooohooo!
What software and plug do I need to get for diagnostics?? If you find out I'd be v grateful. Cheers
It was the spark plugs! Completely fouled up from over fueling. The car always smokes on startup, I need the newer map, seeing trevor jasper very soon!
Well the car was also not running right at all and on Trevor's advice put NGK BR7EFS plugs in....the difference is bloody amazing! I had some super duper iridium plugs in there and they were total rubbish. Try the new plugs! Run the car properly when you start it, get it warm so the plugs don't get fouled with fuel. Then the new map when you can. It worked for me, running so much better! Wooohooo!
What software and plug do I need to get for diagnostics?? If you find out I'd be v grateful. Cheers
R0162 said:
Bill,
Where did you get the cables so taht i can plug in my laptop..i want to reset the adaptive map and i have the 1.3 easimap software.. just do not have the cable..
Cheers
Chris
SBD can supply, and details for making your own are on their site/in the Easimap guides. Discussed in this thread:Where did you get the cables so taht i can plug in my laptop..i want to reset the adaptive map and i have the 1.3 easimap software.. just do not have the cable..
Cheers
Chris
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Dom.
R0162 said:
Bill,
Where did you get the cables so taht i can plug in my laptop..i want to reset the adaptive map and i have the 1.3 easimap software.. just do not have the cable..
Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris. How's your beautiful Nob running. Sorry for the slow response. Was a busy week at work and it carried over into today. Where did you get the cables so taht i can plug in my laptop..i want to reset the adaptive map and i have the 1.3 easimap software.. just do not have the cable..
Cheers
Chris
I made the cable myself by modifying a standard null modem serial cable. Cut one end off and soldered on a new 9-pin D connector with the correct wiring config according to SBD's online specs. I used some cheap resistors, but after reading the harness wiring diagram that came with Derek's "free software" I convinced myself that the resistors are only necessary if you ever turn live mapping on in EasiMap. Dom's right; the same cable diagram is available online at SBD. Those expensive resistors are only substitutes for the mapping pots, and aren't needed in my experience with EasiMap unless you mistakenly turn active mapping on.
If you're not handy with a soldering gun, pretty sure SBD still sells the cables, and I know that Troy (Noble Tech) recently sold a cable to one of the Noble Form members.
Glad to hear you're planning to try EasiMap out. It's a very useful tool if you spend a little time getting to know it. You can even design your own panels to focus on whatever parameters you're interested in at the time. You can also learn a lot about the way the mbe controls your Nob by just poking around in the menus and your chipfile.
Troy worked a lot with Derek. He recommends ver. 5.0. That's what I use when up/down loading with the mbe. He had problems with 5.5 and 6.0. I don't have any experience with versions earlier than 5.0.
Now that I think of it, are you referring to the Noble Software; could be wrong, but I think that's ver. 1.3.
I found that a standard null modem serial cable off the shelf from a computer/electronics store worked with the Noble Software, but that cable got me into trouble with EasiMap. You're probably safer overall with a SBD spec cable.
If you really are talking about EasiMap, do you have the link to Derek's free software on Noble Forums. I'd be glad to send it again.
Edited by Bill NobleUS206 on Sunday 15th April 06:33
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