Full Re Think Of Intercooler and Hard Pipes/Air Filters
Discussion
We've just finished a full exhaust, intercooler, pipe re work and re position of air filters.
Graham Hathaway Racing has carried out all the
Mods along with MJS Fabrication
I collected the car today and even without a re map it feels like we have added a 100hp.
We are looking in for ultimate drivability and not out and out horse power.
Re map,carbon front splitter and wheel arch infills to follow.
This was not a standard pro alloy job but a In depth re work with everything designed and made as a bespoke set up. I'm not a tekki so forgive me if I don't use the correct terminology.
On collection my 12000 mile 2004 3R I took it to Graham to ask him what we could do. On opening the clam Grahams first response was No, Oh No, No No No, I said what, he said No No No. If you know Graham that basically means what you have got is a right royal F_ _ K Up :-(
Graham has built race cars, run everything from Group B rally carst through to driving and running the Silk Cut Jag at the Historic Le Mans. British Touring cars both as a Driver and Team manger have bean a regular part of his life.
Therefore when he says " No" I tend to think oh st what have we hear then! No means Bad!
He stated to explain all the pitfalls of Mr Nobles design and it makes a lot of sense I gues.
Here we go
The car is a turbo and relies on cold air to get the best out of performance.
So put the air filter that supplies the cold air to one turbo right on top of the turbo that heats up the rising air that is directly sucked in by this filter, stoopid he says!
Then the air filters are battling against the intercooler to the rights for as much air as possible, stoopid as well.
The pipe runs are unequll and have more bends than the London Underground, stoopid!
The engine bay floor is designed to reflect all the exhaust heat straight back into the engine bay further heating the area around the inter cooler, stoopid!
The rear number plate covers around 50% of the rear vent and stops heat escaping from the rear.
The inter cooler itself is positioned and manufactured so that the air that enters is not directed then it fights for its share of infer cooler which works on a split of about 70/30
So what was the answer to all these problems then.
Here we go
Build a very trick bespoke inter cooler that is baffled which splits the air equally from each turbo. it has internal baffles to speed up and direct air flow. It is also manufactured to maximise air cooling!
Re make all pipe work reducing sharp turns where possible.
Taper the hard pipes to balance and speed up the air flow due to the un equal lengths of pipe that can't be avoided
Move the air filters to an area where they can capture uninterrupted cold air
Make bespoke air rams so as the air filters can gulp in all the fresh cold air.
Build an internal diffuser to take the hot air from the exhaust out of the engine bay
Tidy up rear Venturi to assist with removal of hot air
Make a new number plate holder to lift the plate off of the rear grill.
And
Top all this with a Roush Exhaust
The result is the car feels like it's got a 100 hp more, revs much more freely and maintains what ever horse power it has as the charge temps and engine bay are an altogether cooler place.
Fit new rear spoiler mounts curtosey of Simon(Tuxman)
Many thanks Simon, to clean up rear air flow and I can now see out of the window.
Pictures to follow tomorrow which will explain all :-)
It has baffled inlets to direct the air and cool the air equally
Straighten out the pipe runs and remove as many angles as possible
Here we can see the much more direct route on the drivers side hard pipe and the tapered passenger side pipe to equalise the air flow as much as possible
Another angle
Heres the stepped internal diffuser which helps suck hot air out of the rear and away from the exhaust. It uses the low pressure area at the pick and picks up cool air through air holes in the underside of the rear diffuser
Holes in the diffuser which feed the internal sucker diffuser which draws and then disperses the heat
Re positioned air filters with the air ram scoops
Its a big un
Tapered Hard pipe
Rear number plate bracket
|http://thumbsnap.com/q75mRJSx[/url]
Two twin rear diffuser vanes, very strong
One Mr Tuxman rear wing pylon set, thanks Simon, also bought front carbon splitter but not fitted yet.
Well thats about it for now, when we have time we will do a full report on charge temps etc
Heres a few more snaps
|http://thumbsnap.com/THcJ7QyK[/url]
All the parts will be available for self fit or you can book in for the whole job!
Graham Hathaway Racing has carried out all the
Mods along with MJS Fabrication
I collected the car today and even without a re map it feels like we have added a 100hp.
We are looking in for ultimate drivability and not out and out horse power.
Re map,carbon front splitter and wheel arch infills to follow.
This was not a standard pro alloy job but a In depth re work with everything designed and made as a bespoke set up. I'm not a tekki so forgive me if I don't use the correct terminology.
On collection my 12000 mile 2004 3R I took it to Graham to ask him what we could do. On opening the clam Grahams first response was No, Oh No, No No No, I said what, he said No No No. If you know Graham that basically means what you have got is a right royal F_ _ K Up :-(
Graham has built race cars, run everything from Group B rally carst through to driving and running the Silk Cut Jag at the Historic Le Mans. British Touring cars both as a Driver and Team manger have bean a regular part of his life.
Therefore when he says " No" I tend to think oh st what have we hear then! No means Bad!
He stated to explain all the pitfalls of Mr Nobles design and it makes a lot of sense I gues.
Here we go
The car is a turbo and relies on cold air to get the best out of performance.
So put the air filter that supplies the cold air to one turbo right on top of the turbo that heats up the rising air that is directly sucked in by this filter, stoopid he says!
Then the air filters are battling against the intercooler to the rights for as much air as possible, stoopid as well.
The pipe runs are unequll and have more bends than the London Underground, stoopid!
The engine bay floor is designed to reflect all the exhaust heat straight back into the engine bay further heating the area around the inter cooler, stoopid!
The rear number plate covers around 50% of the rear vent and stops heat escaping from the rear.
The inter cooler itself is positioned and manufactured so that the air that enters is not directed then it fights for its share of infer cooler which works on a split of about 70/30
So what was the answer to all these problems then.
Here we go
Build a very trick bespoke inter cooler that is baffled which splits the air equally from each turbo. it has internal baffles to speed up and direct air flow. It is also manufactured to maximise air cooling!
Re make all pipe work reducing sharp turns where possible.
Taper the hard pipes to balance and speed up the air flow due to the un equal lengths of pipe that can't be avoided
Move the air filters to an area where they can capture uninterrupted cold air
Make bespoke air rams so as the air filters can gulp in all the fresh cold air.
Build an internal diffuser to take the hot air from the exhaust out of the engine bay
Tidy up rear Venturi to assist with removal of hot air
Make a new number plate holder to lift the plate off of the rear grill.
And
Top all this with a Roush Exhaust
The result is the car feels like it's got a 100 hp more, revs much more freely and maintains what ever horse power it has as the charge temps and engine bay are an altogether cooler place.
Fit new rear spoiler mounts curtosey of Simon(Tuxman)
Many thanks Simon, to clean up rear air flow and I can now see out of the window.
Pictures to follow tomorrow which will explain all :-)
It has baffled inlets to direct the air and cool the air equally
Straighten out the pipe runs and remove as many angles as possible
Here we can see the much more direct route on the drivers side hard pipe and the tapered passenger side pipe to equalise the air flow as much as possible
Another angle
Heres the stepped internal diffuser which helps suck hot air out of the rear and away from the exhaust. It uses the low pressure area at the pick and picks up cool air through air holes in the underside of the rear diffuser
Holes in the diffuser which feed the internal sucker diffuser which draws and then disperses the heat
Re positioned air filters with the air ram scoops
Its a big un
Tapered Hard pipe
Rear number plate bracket
|http://thumbsnap.com/q75mRJSx[/url]Two twin rear diffuser vanes, very strong
One Mr Tuxman rear wing pylon set, thanks Simon, also bought front carbon splitter but not fitted yet.
Well thats about it for now, when we have time we will do a full report on charge temps etc
Heres a few more snaps
|http://thumbsnap.com/THcJ7QyK[/url]All the parts will be available for self fit or you can book in for the whole job!
Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:33
Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:40
Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:50
[url]Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:54
Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:57
[url]Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 14:58
[url]Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 15:26
[url]Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 15:32
TuxMan said:
Wow Barry great to see a new take on the problems involved and some great ideas !!!
Love the pipe work , can see a big improvement , been looking at doing the same to mine before I get my engine back !!
Are you going for a remapp ?? Tux
Probs will mate but the thing is so bloody good I am worried about taking the drivability away. It feels like 500bhp on the standard map!!!Love the pipe work , can see a big improvement , been looking at doing the same to mine before I get my engine back !!
Are you going for a remapp ?? Tux
I've lost the pics from when it was in build but will try to post them once found.
The idea is that it's a 3 step plate that sits below the exhaust on top of the the original diffuser. There's a gap between the two diffusers stepping from about 12-25mm in 3 stages. The internal diffuser absorbs the exhaust heat being metal. By making the holes in the normal diffuser there becomes a channel which cool air is drawn through which can exit via the rear mesh just above the standard diffuser.
On tick over the diffuser gets hot really quickly doing its job by soaking up the exhaust heat. By the time you have driven a few miles drawing cool air through the channel the internal diffuser is quickly cooled and can be touched by hand.
So basically you have a heat soak and cold air flow to remove the heat soak.
It must be better to absorb it and disperse it rather than leave it or direct it back into the clam to rise up towards the inter cooler.
Hope this helps!
The idea is that it's a 3 step plate that sits below the exhaust on top of the the original diffuser. There's a gap between the two diffusers stepping from about 12-25mm in 3 stages. The internal diffuser absorbs the exhaust heat being metal. By making the holes in the normal diffuser there becomes a channel which cool air is drawn through which can exit via the rear mesh just above the standard diffuser.
On tick over the diffuser gets hot really quickly doing its job by soaking up the exhaust heat. By the time you have driven a few miles drawing cool air through the channel the internal diffuser is quickly cooled and can be touched by hand.
So basically you have a heat soak and cold air flow to remove the heat soak.
It must be better to absorb it and disperse it rather than leave it or direct it back into the clam to rise up towards the inter cooler.
Hope this helps!
Edited by Juno on Sunday 15th April 16:46
mgbond said:
I tried the intake baffles before but was worried it restricted the air (hot or cold) getting In.
Yours looks good.
Would be interested in a set of those. Would also like to see more diffuser pics as I'm interested in that also.
Bondy
Sorry had non idea it had been done before. The K@ N's are good for 250BHP each but you have to give them a chance to get as much cool air as poss. We feel without this alot of air will get past the air filters mixing with the hotter engine air. Seems to work really well !
Yours looks good.
Would be interested in a set of those. Would also like to see more diffuser pics as I'm interested in that also.
Bondy
Sorry had non idea it had been done before. The K@ N's are good for 250BHP each but you have to give them a chance to get as much cool air as poss. We feel without this alot of air will get past the air filters mixing with the hotter engine air. Seems to work really well !
Edited by mgbond on Sunday 15th April 16:44
Erm, first result in google for "noble windtunnel data"
http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/ReverieNobleDa...
http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/ReverieNobleDa...
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