Safe boost level?
Discussion
After Trevor showed me on Sunday what pipe should go where on my manual boost controller I plucked up courage to switch over to it. I spent the last few outings getting the boost down to something not too frightening. Has anyone got any advice on what would be a safe boost to use on my 2.5 before having to start fettling the engine to cope?
dave sutton said:
After Trevor showed me on Sunday what pipe should go where on my manual boost controller I plucked up courage to switch over to it. I spent the last few outings getting the boost down to something not too frightening. Has anyone got any advice on what would be a safe boost to use on my 2.5 before having to start fettling the engine to cope?
Is is fueling mapped for anything more than std boost?swankBaton said:
dave sutton said:
After Trevor showed me on Sunday what pipe should go where on my manual boost controller I plucked up courage to switch over to it. I spent the last few outings getting the boost down to something not too frightening. Has anyone got any advice on what would be a safe boost to use on my 2.5 before having to start fettling the engine to cope?
Is is fueling mapped for anything more than std boost?Ok everyone will tell you that it is only safe to set boost to what it is mapped for, i.e. it will be mapped for 0.7 bar boost so taht is what is safe.
But i am somebody that does not follow the rules and like to experiment, which can certainly be an expensive learning curve sometimes, but other times you achieve things that people say is not possible.
My car was mapped to 0.9 bar, with 0.3 bar actuators on T25's, i upped the target boost to 1.2 bar and put 0.5 bar actuators, been running like that for 6 months now and done lots of very hot laps on the race track spitting flames, but i do insist on using high octane fuel, my fuel delivery system is very strong, and basically my car is heavily modified to run cool, every car is different, so you may get completely different results.
Nobody will ever advise you any different, 0.7 bar or whatever it is mapped for is safe for your car, anything else is in the realm of experimentation.
But i am somebody that does not follow the rules and like to experiment, which can certainly be an expensive learning curve sometimes, but other times you achieve things that people say is not possible.
My car was mapped to 0.9 bar, with 0.3 bar actuators on T25's, i upped the target boost to 1.2 bar and put 0.5 bar actuators, been running like that for 6 months now and done lots of very hot laps on the race track spitting flames, but i do insist on using high octane fuel, my fuel delivery system is very strong, and basically my car is heavily modified to run cool, every car is different, so you may get completely different results.
Nobody will ever advise you any different, 0.7 bar or whatever it is mapped for is safe for your car, anything else is in the realm of experimentation.
swankBaton said:
Is is fueling mapped for anything more than std boost?
Of course, I should have done the research before coming online. In the paperwork that came with the car I have found a receipt and printout for a power road mapping session. This mentions that it was on 'manual boost bleed' and shows Boost peaking at -15 psi and levelling at around -12.5 at 7000 rpm. So I guess I can go back to that level, my original question still stands though, which bits of the engine are likely to break if I run it too often near its max output?TuxMan said:
Hi Dave most 2.5 don't like to run more then 1 bar boost , over that the head gaskets become a problem .
Tux
Would higher spec studs to higher torque deal with that? Tux
I am interested because the car came with an ecu fitted that was reputed to deliver over 400bhp. I switched it out until I feel ready for some more power but would like to view it as a possibility for the future while recognising that precautionary upgrades are likely to be necessary.
Done loads of mods on my 2.5 and unless you have forged pistons and lower the
compession ratio you will damage your pistons,as i have found out to my cost
need to get cr down to 8.32 from 9.37 to be safe otherwise you will get head problems
im running 1.3 peak boost n 445 bhp with no probs so it is possible to do.
steve
compession ratio you will damage your pistons,as i have found out to my cost
need to get cr down to 8.32 from 9.37 to be safe otherwise you will get head problems
im running 1.3 peak boost n 445 bhp with no probs so it is possible to do.
steve
dave sutton said:
Would higher spec studs to higher torque deal with that?
I am interested because the car came with an ecu fitted that was reputed to deliver over 400bhp. I switched it out until I feel ready for some more power but would like to view it as a possibility for the future while recognising that precautionary upgrades are likely to be necessary.
There are some 2.5s running around 1.2-1.3 bar but these have ARP heads studs (Although so did I and couldn't get them to work so went back to std).I am interested because the car came with an ecu fitted that was reputed to deliver over 400bhp. I switched it out until I feel ready for some more power but would like to view it as a possibility for the future while recognising that precautionary upgrades are likely to be necessary.
Mine was mapped for 1.2 but I don't like to use it. I have an adjuster in the car and tend to use 1bar (although it does rise a bit more in 5th to 1.1bar).
Before all the engine mods I ran 1 bar as a peak dropping to 0.9. I would have said this will be fine for std internals.
As I understand it, going for GT28s will give the same power at lower boost. Im happy with 1 bar so I eventually want to fit the GT28s so I have just over 400 at no more than 1 bar. Currently with std T25s I get 413 at 1.2.
Bondy
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