Advice
Author
Discussion

stevegto3

Original Poster:

428 posts

166 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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Hi All

Just wanted to get some advice. I had a earlier thread on here about my rear brake lights being a bit funny and having no reverse lights. My local garage has fixed the brake light issue, but the reverse switch is fried and needs a new one. Where would I get a new one?

Secondly I have a small oil leak. They have tracked it down to the silicone seal on the sump. It has a TDS. Is this is a major job to sort? or engine out job?

Cheers
Steve

ajf

428 posts

235 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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3R 6 Speed gearbox - Ford part No. 1444282 Switch Assembly, Mondeo ST220 from about Mar 2003 onwards

Sorry cant help with the sump sure someone will be along soon

Adrian

stevegto3

Original Poster:

428 posts

166 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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Hi Ajf - its for a 5 speed rather than the 6 speed.

ajf

428 posts

235 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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Should be the earlier one as its a ford MT75 gearbox out of the earlier mondeo with the 2.5 engine

Adrian

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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I'm sure there is a part number in the wiki on here or Nobleparts.

The TDS gasket I got from Jetstream as the ford one I got was different.

Just to be Clear, it doesn't matter that it a TDS though its whatever the engine needs. I'm sure I put the part numbers up?

Bondy

stevegto3

Original Poster:

428 posts

166 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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If the TDS has a leaking gasket, am I right in thinking that its a major job to change. Someone said to me they think you have to cut the chassis to get to it - is that right?

Steve

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
quotequote all
stevegto3 said:
If the TDS has a leaking gasket, am I right in thinking that its a major job to change. Someone said to me they think you have to cut the chassis to get to it - is that right?

Steve
No it's easy I think?

U have to cut chassis to fit one if engine is not out. Hmm does that mean u can't change gasket in situ?

Edited by mgbond on Friday 22 February 17:43

AMG Merc

11,955 posts

282 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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mgbond said:
Hmm does that mean u can't change gasket in situ?
Must do yes

Metalman

1,173 posts

247 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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To replace the gasket you will need to drop the sump I'm afraid, and yes you will need to cut the chassis if your not removing the engine. There are two types of gasket that I know of, a solid one that you can buy from ford (I have the part number somewhere if you need it) or a liquid gasket you apply to a groove in the sump. In this photo you can see the two different types of sump.

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
quotequote all
Metalman said:
To replace the gasket you will need to drop the sump I'm afraid, and yes you will need to cut the chassis if your not removing the engine. There are two types of gasket that I know of, a solid one that you can buy from ford (I have the part number somewhere if you need it) or a liquid gasket you apply to a groove in the sump. In this photo you can see the two different types of sump.
Not sure it's a liquid one. When we did mine ford gave me the flat one. Jetstream cam through with the part number for the other type that was just a round rubber gasket.

Metalman

1,173 posts

247 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
quotequote all
I guess it's either then, as it was Matt that told me to use a liquid gasket for the sump and it never gave me any problems. If it's possible to get one from ford that fits into that groove on the sump I would probably go that route, rather than relying on something to stick to make the seal.

steveobes

632 posts

208 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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Mine leaked like yours, around the area where the cam chain casings met.
I used both rubber gasket and some silicne based wet gasket.
Seemed to do the trick.

stevegto3

Original Poster:

428 posts

166 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
quotequote all
I think the garage said something about it was leaking through a very small part in the silicone. I take it if it is that then the sump still needs to be taken out or is it something that can be resealed in situ?

steveobes

632 posts

208 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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Hi Steve,
Dont know how handy you are with the spanners.
Jack car up as hi as you can, place rear wheels on ramps.
Take of rear undertray.
Undo flexy exhaust clamp and if you have the chassis cut out, unbolt it.
Undo sump bolts, you will need a long exstension bar on some of the bolts.
Before that drain oil lol
Clean both sump n block from old sealant
Place new gasket on sump and make sure you put a bit on where cam chain casings meet.
Put some sealer onto gasket as well.
I left mine to set a little bit before bolting back up.
Torque bolt up and hopefully that willk be ok.
Just to add make sure you degrease both surfaces before aplying gasket and silicone.

stevegto3

Original Poster:

428 posts

166 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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Hi Steve

In short, im not that confident :-)

I know the TDS was fitted at Mole Valley as an addition. So I assume they must have cut the chassis to fit it. Is it common practice to bolt that bit of cut chassis back on, similar to what ive seen on the Usa forum?

It needs a service, but im not confident my local garage can do it, it was only with them for an mot. Ill probably take it to one of the usual suspects and get them to do it at the same time. It wont be until spring, so I assume im not going to do any damage if I drive it as long as the levels are topped up?

Cheers

steveobes

632 posts

208 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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Not a problem, just keep a eye on oil levels.
Cutting of chassis for tds is common, no need to worry imo.

2.5bluenob

1,620 posts

205 months

Saturday 23rd February 2013
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stevegto3 said:
Hi Steve

In short, im not that confident :-)

I know the TDS was fitted at Mole Valley as an addition. So I assume they must have cut the chassis to fit it. Is it common practice to bolt that bit of cut chassis back on, similar to what ive seen on the Usa forum?

It needs a service, but im not confident my local garage can do it, it was only with them for an mot. Ill probably take it to one of the usual suspects and get them to do it at the same time. It wont be until spring, so I assume im not going to do any damage if I drive it as long as the levels are topped up?

Cheers
i take my car to mole every year for a service. They have said to me in the past that they really do not agree with cutting the chassis and they would never buy a car if they knew the chassis had been cut.
steve

steveobes

632 posts

208 months

Saturday 23rd February 2013
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2.5bluenob said:
i take my car to mole every year for a service. They have said to me in the past that they really do not agree with cutting the chassis and they would never buy a car if they knew the chassis had been cut.
steve
Chris at MoleValley said to me that they dont buy any noble that has had any mods done to them.
If done correctly cant see what the issue is with the chassis cut to do tds.

JBliss

1,149 posts

186 months

Saturday 23rd February 2013
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After i cut my chassis, i welded the bar back in. Maybe it would have been better to bolt it in, but hey ho!

Cant see anything wrong with cutting the chassis and bolting it in. The best Nobles are the modded ones!!

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Saturday 23rd February 2013
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I had mine done at Noble at their discounted price of £900 all in and they cut the chassis.