What's needed for 400bhp?

[LazyRoss18]

As above really, what's mods does a 3R need for 400bhp?

[Gadgeroonie]

boost and a remap
stronger actuators
fuel pump mod - preferably better fuel pump
intercooler helps
exhaust helps
valve springs help

i suggest you fit antishock gear oil if you want the gearbox to survive ok

this is one i remapped a while back

Edited by Gadgeroonie on Tuesday 16th April 21:56

[brappage]

Your probably looking at the fuel pump wiring, an exhaust (which you have), a intercooler and a map. Possibly looking at better actuators also.

What car are you coming from having previously? Hate to sound boring but I'd give yourself a while to get used to the power, it really is a big step from most cars, only basing it on your age but I'm sure you will find it quick. If you can drive the socks off it and use the 350bhp there won't be many things that can touch you.

I've had mine a year and am looking to go the same type of power route but mainly as upgrades to replace tired parts like the exhaust etc.

[D_G]

My car made over 410hp with a remap and 0.7 bar actuators, fuel wiring upgrade with standard everything else. Was detuned to save the gearbox, even with 380hp it's now pretty lively and the torque delivery is much better. You'll probably find your car isn't making 350hp anyway, mine was down at 320!!
For road use there's not much need for a lot more...

[LazyRoss18]

Cheers for the info guys! Just wanted to know what the usual mods were, will unlikely be upping the power for a while! I came from a 330bhp mk1 frs, was quick but the noble will still be a big step for me! First rear wheel drive car also lol

[D_G]

Best advice I can give you in go easy with it to start with, gentle throttle inputs when cold and wet. Mine spins up in third in the wet if you want it to, just get used to it. With my MX5 you can do what you want, just shows what another 200hp can do!
I've had mine for seven years and it still surprises me with the performance but it can still catch you out. Make sure it's got good tyres on it!!

Enjoy

[mgbond]

I still don't get this 0.7bar actuator stuff.

Surely this just means that with no boost control your boost will be 0.7bar any more than this is done by a boost controller?

Have 0.5 actuators just means uncontrolled you will have 0.5 bar?

This could mean that you have a switch to turn controll off and go from 0.9 controlled to 0.5 for wet conditions.

I have a variable control but to be honest it's stays at 1 bar and I use my foot for the conditions.

Bondy

[951]

I think that the base pressure probably needs to be closer to the target to improve the level of control that the ecu can achieve at a reasonable duty cycle to allow it to deliver a flatter (smoother) boost profile and still have some duty cycle in hand?

[Davie M12]

Yeah I was wondering about this too.
My GTO3 had uprated actuators fitted by a previous owner and at the same time the ECU was remapped to give 375BHP.
However the boost guage seems to only ever go to around 0.55 to 0.65 bar?
Car feels really quick but not sure on the actual BHP?
Planning to get it on the rollers and possbly remapped again but so far have not managed to find a local (Glasgow) tuner with experience of Nobles.
An exhaust and IC upgrade is on the cards for later in the year so may just wait till then?

[D_G]

It does also depend on how they are adjusted on the actuating rods. My old ones broke at 0.3bar but we hardly wound on at all, my 0.7 ones are now correctly set to the wastegate.

[mlarj]

What 0.7 actuators have people fitted and where did you get them? My standard ones are very rusty and I'm thinking of replacing them in preparation for a remap.

Mat

[mgbond]

951 said:

I think that the base pressure probably needs to be closer to the target to improve the level of control that the ecu can achieve at a reasonable duty cycle to allow it to deliver a flatter (smoother) boost profile and still have some duty cycle in hand?

Is this true, if it is the case then maybe I should fit them as I'm running 1-1.1 bar so might get better control?

[D_G]

mgbond said:

Is this true, if it is the case then maybe I should fit them as I'm running 1-1.1 bar so might get better control?

I wouldn't as you get a boost spike as the wastegate opens. I would say 0.7 actuators as ideal as it gives enough capacity for increase and low enough to avoid spiking. I got mine from Area 52 Motorsport.

[Rob Huntly]

My first 3R had M400 turbos fitted and a remap and was putting out 400BHP with an upgraded fuel pump and wiring.
My current 3R has only had an H&S exhaust system with free flow D cats fitted and Trevor Jasper from Roush remapped it at Track and Road in Essex and got 398BHP and 404 ib/ft torque out of it. I have also had the fuel pump wiring loom upgraded and I must say it runs really well. A bit lively though with the occasional wheel spin in 3rd at 80/90mph but you get used to how to put the power down after a while.

Rob

[Hollowpockets]

0.7 bar actuators are what is run on the bigger powered cars, you should never need to higher than that, it gets me to over 500hp on low boost, it spikes at 1.1 then drops to 0.9-1. On hight boost it spikes off the gauge, maybe 2bar then settles to 1.4-1.5. Gets the bum hole twitching when the boost goes off the gauge.

[andygtt]

mgbond said:

I still don't get this 0.7bar actuator stuff.

Surely this just means that with no boost control your boost will be 0.7bar any more than this is done by a boost controller?

Have 0.5 actuators just means uncontrolled you will have 0.5 bar?

This could mean that you have a switch to turn controll off and go from 0.9 controlled to 0.5 for wet conditions.

I have a variable control but to be honest it's stays at 1 bar and I use my foot for the conditions.

Bondy

correct... the standard 3L car runs a 0.3bar actuator as standard and the boost control valve is controlled by the ecu to allow it to go to 0.7bar to make 352bhp (if your lucky lol)

Fitting a stronger actuator allows you to extend beyond 0.7bar, to give you an idea the twin turbo 600bhp boys run 0.7-0.8 bar actuators which allows them to make 1.5b bar if needed.

whatever you do speak to the person mapping your car before you buy actuators and take their advice.... on the twin turbo application there are pros and cons of running softer or harder actuators, but the mappers preference should be used.

[mgbond]

Thanks Andy, ill stick to what I have then. Are u sure they were 0.3 std as uncontrolled my car runs 0.5 and has done on std turbos?

[andygtt]

BTW I run 0.6bar actuators and can easily control the boost to 2bar at 8000rpm if I wanted (have done by mistake once lol)... its VERY useful to have a genuine 'low' low boost... mine spikes and holds 0.6bar dead and doesnt vary... but its a totally different application

lets not forget though that we are not talking about our stupidly modified engine here... but a stock engine taken to 400bhp, I did the 400bhp as my first upgrade, hated it, the power delivery was all wrong, torque came in too hard and spun the wheels up and just when it was coming under control the BHP tailed away so had to change gear and start again.... it was only faster than stock on the motorway!
This was because I just did the fuel pump wiring and had the boost wound up to 1bar, IMO you need to do the valve timing adjustment to keep the BHP for longer at the top end.

I actually really rate the standard delivery of the 3L engine

[Blu3R]

mgbond said:

Thanks Andy, ill stick to what I have then. Are u sure they were 0.3 std as uncontrolled my car runs 0.5 and has done on std turbos?

Yes they are 0.3Bar as standard. Andy is bang on the money IMHO about power delivery although I wouldn't say it was horrible. It's definitely not what you'd want on track but for general hooning the torque coming on strong is something I've always loved. It's called 'fun' and is missing from many cars I've driven that are highly rated. My car is about 375bhp/408lbft and Andy would hate it I on the other hand think it behaves a bit like an animal and doesn't need it's tits revved off to feel like you're achieving anything. It's all personal preference of course and I wanted to keep the £/ ratio at a sensible level too.

For reference, mine has Forge actuators (still 0.3Bar mind); buzz-tastic 044 pump plus wiring; Andy's originally modded fuel tank and a PA IC. So basically it's got a pump and IC over standard and made 375/408 on Shell's finest 95 regular unleaded.

[verba1]

Rob Huntly said:

My first 3R had M400 turbos fitted and a remap and was putting out 400BHP with an upgraded fuel pump and wiring.
My current 3R has only had an H&S exhaust system with free flow D cats fitted and Trevor Jasper from Roush remapped it at Track and Road in Essex and got 398BHP and 404 ib/ft torque out of it. I have also had the fuel pump wiring loom upgraded and I must say it runs really well. A bit lively though with the occasional wheel spin in 3rd at 80/90mph but you get used to how to put the power down after a while.

Rob

Hi Rob

Are u using standard intercooler , 0.3 actuators and standard fuel pump on your 3r
? If you are that's pretty impressive with just changing the exhaust !