Glueing fake wheel bolts
Discussion
Dear collective,
I'm just having some original 3R rims refurbed and have sourced some stainless replacements for the fake bolts.
I'm considering a blob of clear silicone sealant in each recess to secure them. Anyone had any experience of this, would an expoxy such as Araldite be better?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers,
Simon
I'm just having some original 3R rims refurbed and have sourced some stainless replacements for the fake bolts.
I'm considering a blob of clear silicone sealant in each recess to secure them. Anyone had any experience of this, would an expoxy such as Araldite be better?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers,
Simon
just thinking, wot would the implications be if one of these bolt heads came off and injured someone.as a motorbike rider i really woulnt fancy being hit in the face by one of these,or having my noble damaged by one ie smashed windscreen or damaged radiator.id think pretty carefully before you glue these in
Surely plastic is the way to go here?
Given an estimate of 3 grams per nut, if my calculations are correct that would equate to approximately an extra 6 Kg-force per nut at 140mph (in a straight line).
Not sure I'd do this to a wheel design that has in the past shown a tendency to crack.
Given an estimate of 3 grams per nut, if my calculations are correct that would equate to approximately an extra 6 Kg-force per nut at 140mph (in a straight line).
Not sure I'd do this to a wheel design that has in the past shown a tendency to crack.
Notwithstanding the extra (and unnecessary?) weight issue, metal bolts tend to scratch the lacquer/paint layer off when gluing in - so then corrosion sets into the sockets which looks absolutely lovely!
If you have time on your hands, as many here seem to, then plastic is the way to go however I prefer sans bolts - looks good (IMHO), you can't tell they're there from a distance anyway, and no need to redo 29 bolts/wheel (or in the case of black chrome - 68, as both on the kerbed side need to be redone together) each time you have the wheels repaired due to scuffs.
Just my twopenneth’s worth

If you have time on your hands, as many here seem to, then plastic is the way to go however I prefer sans bolts - looks good (IMHO), you can't tell they're there from a distance anyway, and no need to redo 29 bolts/wheel (or in the case of black chrome - 68, as both on the kerbed side need to be redone together) each time you have the wheels repaired due to scuffs.
Just my twopenneth’s worth

Edited by AMG Merc on Friday 13th December 12:24
Thanks for the info guys, I checked with Jetstream and they have a wheel and a halfs worth left of old stock original plastic bolts (then no more!). So no joy there.
WRT adhesive, also jestreams advice was epoxy, so no machine-gun fire hopefully! With regard to the weight of the bolts and potential adverse effect on the wheel.....I thought that the stailess route had been successfully tried and tested?
Am I teetering on the verge of 'wheel exploding' disaster?
S
WRT adhesive, also jestreams advice was epoxy, so no machine-gun fire hopefully! With regard to the weight of the bolts and potential adverse effect on the wheel.....I thought that the stailess route had been successfully tried and tested?
Am I teetering on the verge of 'wheel exploding' disaster?
S
not sure of the correct size, but measure what you have then order the same and have painted the correct colour
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sa...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sa...
Simon BB said:
Am I teetering on the verge of 'wheel exploding' disaster?
as long as the wheel is balanced properly once the bolts are on and the bolts are evenly spaced, the extra mass can't be detrimental enough to the wheel to compromise it structurally, surely? Edited by V1DL3R on Friday 13th December 12:41
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