Internal Chassis Protection

[StreetDragster]

Hi All,

Cleaning out my garage the other day i found my old injection gun for appling corrosion protection, waxoyl or whatever and i thought that maybe i should give the Nobles chassis a cavity/internal treatment at some point. Probably winter 2014.

Having never treated a box section chassis before, is it common practise to drill the chassis and then apply the sealant? What do you do with the hole afterwards? Grommet or weld it up or something? Anyone done this sort of thing before? No where on the chassis seems to be corroded, but prevention is better than cure!

The injection gun seems simple, a nozzle on the end of a plastic pipe to the hand piece, i'm thinking of getting a longer plastic pipe so i could do the entire chassis lengths through a single access point, although i don't know if the rivet tails and screws would cause a problem.

And finally, any recommendations for a fluid? Waxoyl, Dinitrol, or something else?

Thanks

Matt

Edited by StreetDragster on Thursday 30th January 18:51

[Zoobeef]

I have dinitrol cavety wax as it had very good reviews.

The easiest would be to drill and weld probably but I just undid loads of self tappers and squirted it through the holes for ages. Probably not the most effective method. Squirted for ages too and realised at the end I'd hardly used any!

When I get chance I'm going to find a better way to put it in and just fill the chassis from the highest point and hopefully get everywhere that way. Prob have puddles in the garage for months afterwards though.

[StreetDragster]

How much did you use? A quick google reveals that Dinitrol 3125 is the stuff to go for, and they sell it in 1 litre containers, reducing in price the more you buy.
6mm and 8mm injection nozzles seem to be the normal, so probably a 10mm hole needed for a bit of wiggle room.

At least the drips will show where a screw needs fitting

[Zoobeef]

Less than a litre. But it probably wasnt as thorough.

If I squirted it into a cloth it looked like it came out pretty quick. Squirted it in all the holes for what took a few hours and used less than a litre :/

[StreetDragster]

Ah right, thanks for your reply.

Bilt Hamber do some stuff to for similar prices as dinitrol, i love bilt hamber stuff, might give their stuff a whirl.

I think if i drill some holes, inject the wax, and then use grommets to seal them, i can easily repeat the spray every winter.

Its bad news when you are looking forward to protecting your chassis

Matt

[mgbond]

In sure people have already done this. I did when changing rear diffuser. But I seem to remember that it was suggested not to put too much in as it then forever seeps out if the car!

[StreetDragster]

Cool tip.

Did you drill holes for the injector, or is there some other access point or way of doing it?

[lockey74]

Hi Matt, rustbuster products are really good, they're really helpful too. Www.rust.co.uk

[Zoobeef]

lockey74 said:

Hi Matt, rustbuster products are really good, they're really helpful too. Www.rust.co.uk

Thats where I got my stuff from. It was the 3125 stuff.

[mgbond]

StreetDragster said:

Cool tip.

Did you drill holes for the injector, or is there some other access point or way of doing it?

I believe all the tube interject with each other. When I re sealed my floor I sprayed Waxol in a load of screws holes (but just a few squirts in each hole). I did it again when I put new diffuser on so at least the center and rear have it.

Once warm the stuff moves about so hope it's moved around the whole chassis.

[StreetDragster]

Cheers all.

Steven, I'll check that place out, thanks

Matt

[StreetDragster]

So far, i can confirm that where the chassis are welded together, there is no hole internally from one piece of box section to the other.

I've chosen Bilt Hamber S50 cavity injection wax, starting to put it in this weekend from the rear of the floor panels backwards.

Over winter 2014 i'll reseal the floor, and at the same time inject the centre and front chassis members

Thanks

Matt

[Gadgeroonie]

drill 2 holes in each rail - one at each end

fill one end till it comes out the other !

[StreetDragster]

Update for this thread.

I have now completed cavity waxing of the internal box section chassis and the rear box sub structure.

I used 2x 750ml aerosols of the the Bilt Hamber S-50 cavity wax, they come with a 3mm diameter, 1m long injection nozzle, and only takes 3-4 hours for the propellant to evaporate so you can plug the holes.
I drilled a few 8-10mm holes and plugged them with grommets afterwards.

Next winter i'll be doing the floor resealing mod, and i'll cavity wax the mid and front chassis at that point too.

I would definately recommend that every owner does this on the lower rear sub structure sections at the minimum, the previous owner report on my car is that it barely saw any water, but corrosion was well on its way in the rear sub structure, luckily i've caught it and rectified it. The main chassis, was completely fine with not even a trace of any corrosion evident.

Thanks

Matt

[ivoxxx]

If you suspect that there is some rust inside the chassis,a product like Dinitrol 3125 will be enough,or better treat with a rust converter before and then put the dinitrol?