Afterburner Lights
Discussion
Bugger! I guess they are all sealed up without any grommets on the inside of the clam?
If so, you have to cut the back open to replace a bulb and then re-seal it again.
I would check the fuses and wires first just to make sure.
Also, would it be an idea to tape down a couple of bags of silica gel to the inside back of the units to suck up any moisture in them!?
Brainwave or what!
GHreg
If so, you have to cut the back open to replace a bulb and then re-seal it again.
I would check the fuses and wires first just to make sure.
Also, would it be an idea to tape down a couple of bags of silica gel to the inside back of the units to suck up any moisture in them!?
Brainwave or what!
GHreg
I've never heard of a bulb going before on the afterburners (the units they use have extra long life bulbs in them as standard designed to make them "fit and forget"
, so it sounds like it's an electrical supply problem.
I don't have a wiring diagram of the Noble, but if the front light is flashing and the rear isn't it's highly unlikely to be a fuse. If the other lights are working as well then it's unlikely to be a grounding issue.
Before taking the rear off (which is a right faff), it's worth checking it's getting 12V to the bulb circuit.
More likely is dirt in the connector at the bottom of the clam (flip the clam up, look down where it's attached to the chassis and you'll see a gray connector block). Unplug that, clean it fully with WD40 and then put it back on.
If that doesn't work, then probably worth getting a multimeter out and unplugging the other side and finding out which connector is the live feed for the indicator light. Put the indicators on, place the black cable of the multimeter on a bare bit of the chassis, and then probe with the red on the connector that is attached to the wiring coming from the middle of the car (not the connector that goes to the lights) until you find the flashing 12V signal (set the multimeter to 20V DC or similar).
If that works, then go around to the side that isn't working, put the indicators on the other side, and then try the same connector. If you get +12V flashing, see below. If you can't find 12V anywhere then there is something wrong with the feed. Check the relay for the flasher circuit (pull it out, clean the connectors up and put it back in, the manual tells you which relay is which) and if that doesn't work, then you'll need to give it to an auto-repair shop that's good with electrical fault finding.
If not, just check that they aren't wired up differently and check each of the other connectors inside the plug to see that it's not wired up differently (it shouldn't be).
If you are getting 12V flashing on the connector from the car, it proves there is 12V getting there. Now set the multimeter to "buzz" or "100 ohm resistance" scale. Ensure ALL of the lights and indicators are off (otherwise you will run the risk of overloading the multimeter) and now, laving the black terminal from the multimeter attached to the chassis, on the connector that is connected to the wiring from the car check each other connector until you get a 'buzz' and/or 0 ohms measurement.
That way you now know what connector in the plug is the 12V feed to the flasher bulb and the ground return feed.
Leaving the multimeter on buzz or 100 ohms, now place the two terminals of the multimeter on the respective connectors on the plug that is attached to the wiring that goes to the lights for the 12V flashing feed and the ground that you found above. If the multimeter doesn't "buzz"/show 0 ohms then that pretty much proves the bulb is blown and you'll need to take the back off and replace it.
If it does buzz/show 0 ohms then it proves the bulb is fine, and it's the connector that isn't making a proper connection.
It sounds complicated as it's hard to explain in words - if it's all too complicated then any normal "independant service centre" that deals with MOTs and general car repairs should be able to find out what's wrong for you.
Hope that helps (or have I totally confused you!)
J
, so it sounds like it's an electrical supply problem. I don't have a wiring diagram of the Noble, but if the front light is flashing and the rear isn't it's highly unlikely to be a fuse. If the other lights are working as well then it's unlikely to be a grounding issue.
Before taking the rear off (which is a right faff), it's worth checking it's getting 12V to the bulb circuit.
More likely is dirt in the connector at the bottom of the clam (flip the clam up, look down where it's attached to the chassis and you'll see a gray connector block). Unplug that, clean it fully with WD40 and then put it back on.
If that doesn't work, then probably worth getting a multimeter out and unplugging the other side and finding out which connector is the live feed for the indicator light. Put the indicators on, place the black cable of the multimeter on a bare bit of the chassis, and then probe with the red on the connector that is attached to the wiring coming from the middle of the car (not the connector that goes to the lights) until you find the flashing 12V signal (set the multimeter to 20V DC or similar).
If that works, then go around to the side that isn't working, put the indicators on the other side, and then try the same connector. If you get +12V flashing, see below. If you can't find 12V anywhere then there is something wrong with the feed. Check the relay for the flasher circuit (pull it out, clean the connectors up and put it back in, the manual tells you which relay is which) and if that doesn't work, then you'll need to give it to an auto-repair shop that's good with electrical fault finding.
If not, just check that they aren't wired up differently and check each of the other connectors inside the plug to see that it's not wired up differently (it shouldn't be).
If you are getting 12V flashing on the connector from the car, it proves there is 12V getting there. Now set the multimeter to "buzz" or "100 ohm resistance" scale. Ensure ALL of the lights and indicators are off (otherwise you will run the risk of overloading the multimeter) and now, laving the black terminal from the multimeter attached to the chassis, on the connector that is connected to the wiring from the car check each other connector until you get a 'buzz' and/or 0 ohms measurement.
That way you now know what connector in the plug is the 12V feed to the flasher bulb and the ground return feed.
Leaving the multimeter on buzz or 100 ohms, now place the two terminals of the multimeter on the respective connectors on the plug that is attached to the wiring that goes to the lights for the 12V flashing feed and the ground that you found above. If the multimeter doesn't "buzz"/show 0 ohms then that pretty much proves the bulb is blown and you'll need to take the back off and replace it.
If it does buzz/show 0 ohms then it proves the bulb is fine, and it's the connector that isn't making a proper connection.
It sounds complicated as it's hard to explain in words - if it's all too complicated then any normal "independant service centre" that deals with MOTs and general car repairs should be able to find out what's wrong for you.
Hope that helps (or have I totally confused you!)
J
I couldn't make up my mind whether to reply to this seriously or amusingly???
Wow, the knowledge base on this site is amazing! I can see me needing to get to know you all well when I take delivery of my M400 in the new year!
On the other note, I understood all that but what's a multimeter??
Wow, the knowledge base on this site is amazing! I can see me needing to get to know you all well when I take delivery of my M400 in the new year!
On the other note, I understood all that but what's a multimeter??
This might give you a clue:-
If the *dashboard* light is flashing at an abnormally high rate then in my experience this means that the bulb circuit has gone "high resistance". When this happened to me it was fixed by simply re-seating the bulb (there was some corrosion on the contacts).
Best of luck.
--
Richard
If the *dashboard* light is flashing at an abnormally high rate then in my experience this means that the bulb circuit has gone "high resistance". When this happened to me it was fixed by simply re-seating the bulb (there was some corrosion on the contacts).
Best of luck.
--
Richard
joust said:
I've never heard of a bulb going before on the afterburners (the units they use have extra long life bulbs in them as standard designed to make them "fit and forget"
I don't have a wiring diagram of the Noble, but if the front light is flashing and the rear isn't it's highly unlikely to be a fuse. If the other lights are working as well then it's unlikely to be a grounding issue.
Before taking the rear off (which is a right faff), it's worth checking it's getting 12V to the bulb circuit.
More likely is dirt in the connector at the bottom of the clam (flip the clam up, look down where it's attached to the chassis and you'll see a gray connector block). Unplug that, clean it fully with WD40 and then put it back on.
If that doesn't work, then probably worth getting a multimeter out and unplugging the other side and finding out which connector is the live feed for the indicator light. Put the indicators on, place the black cable of the multimeter on a bare bit of the chassis, and then probe with the red on the connector that is attached to the wiring coming from the middle of the car (not the connector that goes to the lights) until you find the flashing 12V signal (set the multimeter to 20V DC or similar).
If that works, then go around to the side that isn't working, put the indicators on the other side, and then try the same connector. If you get +12V flashing, see below. If you can't find 12V anywhere then there is something wrong with the feed. Check the relay for the flasher circuit (pull it out, clean the connectors up and put it back in, the manual tells you which relay is which) and if that doesn't work, then you'll need to give it to an auto-repair shop that's good with electrical fault finding.
If not, just check that they aren't wired up differently and check each of the other connectors inside the plug to see that it's not wired up differently (it shouldn't be).
If you are getting 12V flashing on the connector from the car, it proves there is 12V getting there. Now set the multimeter to "buzz" or "100 ohm resistance" scale. Ensure ALL of the lights and indicators are off (otherwise you will run the risk of overloading the multimeter) and now, laving the black terminal from the multimeter attached to the chassis, on the connector that is connected to the wiring from the car check each other connector until you get a 'buzz' and/or 0 ohms measurement.
That way you now know what connector in the plug is the 12V feed to the flasher bulb and the ground return feed.
Leaving the multimeter on buzz or 100 ohms, now place the two terminals of the multimeter on the respective connectors on the plug that is attached to the wiring that goes to the lights for the 12V flashing feed and the ground that you found above. If the multimeter doesn't "buzz"/show 0 ohms then that pretty much proves the bulb is blown and you'll need to take the back off and replace it.
If it does buzz/show 0 ohms then it proves the bulb is fine, and it's the connector that isn't making a proper connection.
It sounds complicated as it's hard to explain in words - if it's all too complicated then any normal "independant service centre" that deals with MOTs and general car repairs should be able to find out what's wrong for you.
Hope that helps (or have I totally confused you!)
J
Suggestion - no posts over 50 words before 9am!!!
pbsaxman said:
On the other note, I understood all that but what's a multimeter??
£4.95 from Maplin
www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44679&doy=14m10
J
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