Sounds different
Discussion
I'm picking up a 3.0l on Saturday to relpace my 2.5, but the 3.0 was slightly disappointing in terms of the sound. I believe my 2.5 had a BOV and that the 3.0 does not (no PSSSST! sound on lifting). But also, the turbos don't chatter the way the 2.5 did, and the engine note on the 3.0 is more gruff sounding (the 2.5 used to howl).
Is it just the lack of BOV (I'll probably get one fitted on the 3.0 at some point) or are there other factors causing this? I read somewhere else on the forums that the filters(?) are in a different position on the 3.0 which might account for the chatter going missing, but I haven't read anywhere about the engine note being different.
I'm a bit of a car tech thicko so sorry if my question appears naive.
Can anything be added/done/removed to restore the great sound? And, more importantly, is it pricey?
Is it just the lack of BOV (I'll probably get one fitted on the 3.0 at some point) or are there other factors causing this? I read somewhere else on the forums that the filters(?) are in a different position on the 3.0 which might account for the chatter going missing, but I haven't read anywhere about the engine note being different.
I'm a bit of a car tech thicko so sorry if my question appears naive.
Can anything be added/done/removed to restore the great sound? And, more importantly, is it pricey?
V6GTO said:
Peter,
To get the chatter back you'll need to move the filters from thier position in the IC collection box to the bulkhead behind the slit apertures just behind the small (fixed) side windows.
Martin.
I've just done this in reverse so if you need pix of the job, email me.
At least there won't be much to buy - I have a list of bits (well a drawer full of bits that I took off, actually).
NobleGuy said:
Cool. Thanks for the info.
Do you reckon it's a job that a novice could cause damage by doing?
Pix and description on their way (sorry there are loads but I've taken cars apart before and not been able to reassemble coz I didn't take enough pix!).
It's a 2 hour job for anyone with a bit of common sense but you'll need a few extra parts (bulkhead brackets and a longer breather pipe).
Have fun and enjoy the noise
I thought it was only the 3R that had the filters moved to the boring position?
I would be suprised if they are in the IC box on a 3.
I would also say that moving them forward is a lot harder than moving them backwards.
I got mine moved forward by the factory and they said its a nasty job to get them into the right place so the clam shuts properly.
Sounds great though
Greg
I would be suprised if they are in the IC box on a 3.
I would also say that moving them forward is a lot harder than moving them backwards.
I got mine moved forward by the factory and they said its a nasty job to get them into the right place so the clam shuts properly.
Sounds great though
Greg
V6GTO said:
Peter,
To get the chatter back you'll need to move the filters from thier position in the IC collection box to the bulkhead behind the slit apertures just behind the small (fixed) side windows. For more "PSSSSSTT" I highly reccomend the Faulks Performance BoV (race version)
Martin.
I've got the standard BOV from Faulks and it still sounds good. Is the race one that different?
mr noble said:
I thought it was only the 3R that had the filters moved to the boring position?
I would be suprised if they are in the IC box on a 3.
Greg
Mine's an early 3 and they are in the intercooler box, think it was standard for all "normal" 3's
Rob.
>> Edited by mr2turbo300 on Wednesday 10th May 07:39
I did this to my 3R as well. noticed a slight gain in power. I have 400hp map, dynod ad 358 to the wheels, just shy of what an M400 dynod at.
Heres a shot at my arrangement. Shortened all of them up as much as possible. With my thicker IC, had to move it up so really no room for the air filters anyway.
Heres a shot at my arrangement. Shortened all of them up as much as possible. With my thicker IC, had to move it up so really no room for the air filters anyway.
Is it real? V6GTO said:
I think that, yes, that is real gold you're looking at. It's about $300 a square foot IIRC. The curly thing is a water spray bar unless I'm mistaken.
Martin.
It is indeed real gold, the stuff they used on bravs car was $95 a square foot i think. I got a quote at $65 per foot. Still thinking about it.
I believe i got it at $35/ft, minimum 10 feet. So i put it all over the car, including the new heat shield.
The squigly thing is a nitrous spray bar. freezes the intercooler (which is a Bell in this case) and really drops intake temps on hot days.
Yes, the rear intake is more prone to heat, however my mechanic tells me the gains from a shorter runner more than offsets that. There is a massive heat shield underneath it as well, and with airflow, shouldnt be much of an issue. With the car dynoing near the same power as an M400, dont think its a prob as of yet.
Here is the heat shield.. HIGHLY recommmend for everyone. Not too expensive to have made. Really keeps the IC from getting heat soaked. Before, I could burn my hand on the bottom of the IC box, now I can touch it without a 2nd deg. burn.
The squigly thing is a nitrous spray bar. freezes the intercooler (which is a Bell in this case) and really drops intake temps on hot days.
Yes, the rear intake is more prone to heat, however my mechanic tells me the gains from a shorter runner more than offsets that. There is a massive heat shield underneath it as well, and with airflow, shouldnt be much of an issue. With the car dynoing near the same power as an M400, dont think its a prob as of yet.
Here is the heat shield.. HIGHLY recommmend for everyone. Not too expensive to have made. Really keeps the IC from getting heat soaked. Before, I could burn my hand on the bottom of the IC box, now I can touch it without a 2nd deg. burn.
brav said:
I believe i got it at $35/ft, minimum 10 feet. So i put it all over the car, including the new heat shield.
The squigly thing is a nitrous spray bar. freezes the intercooler (which is a Bell in this case) and really drops intake temps on hot days.
Yes, the rear intake is more prone to heat, however my mechanic tells me the gains from a shorter runner more than offsets that. There is a massive heat shield underneath it as well, and with airflow, shouldnt be much of an issue. With the car dynoing near the same power as an M400, dont think its a prob as of yet.
Here is the heat shield.. HIGHLY recommmend for everyone. Not too expensive to have made. Really keeps the IC from getting heat soaked. Before, I could burn my hand on the bottom of the IC box, now I can touch it without a 2nd deg. burn.
Hi Brav,
YHM
brav said:
Here is the heat shield.. HIGHLY recommmend for everyone. Not too expensive to have made. Really keeps the IC from getting heat soaked. Before, I could burn my hand on the bottom of the IC box, now I can touch it without a 2nd deg. burn.
Nice! Do you have dimensions or, better still, any drawings to copy from? Where I live most of my driving is in nose to tail traffic so this would help a lot.
As for the heat shield, I do not have the dimensions. I bought it from www.smoothlinez.com
They have sold many to customers in the US, I think about $200?
I found the original post from my contact for the film:
Comes with stick-on backing and fiberglass reinforcemetn for strength.
Jeff
www.forcedfed.com
jeff@forcedfed.com
925-371-2288
They have sold many to customers in the US, I think about $200?
I found the original post from my contact for the film:
Comes with stick-on backing and fiberglass reinforcemetn for strength.
Jeff
www.forcedfed.com
jeff@forcedfed.com
925-371-2288
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