Failed first mot on......
Failed first mot on......
Author
Discussion

CRB1

Original Poster:

922 posts

271 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Just the hand brake cable was too slack.

To help the MOT guys here in Clevedon (who said "what's a Noble when I rang up"...so they're now straight on that one) does anyone know how it is tightened up.

Cheers.

Chris.

D_G

1,939 posts

238 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Hi Chris,

Not sure about the handbrake adjuster but nice to see another Noble closeby...I'm in Portishead.

Cheers

Dave

Mr Noble

6,538 posts

262 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Your car must be the same age as mine give or take, as mine went for its first mot today.

Not actually due till 1st May, but its having the roush exhaust fitted this week so it made sense to mot it now, then leave the cat out.

peterguk

2,622 posts

246 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
CRB1 said:
Just the hand brake cable was too slack.

To help the MOT guys here in Clevedon (who said "what's a Noble when I rang up"...so they're now straight on that one) does anyone know how it is tightened up.

Cheers.

Chris.


IIRC, cable adjuster behind the hub.

NobleSteed

94 posts

253 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Chris

To adjust the handbrake you first should BACK OFF the adjuster in the central tunnel behind the handbrake lever. This is accessed by moving the passenger seat forward and removing a small panel on the left side of the tunnel inside the car. DO NOT just tighten this adjuster up to take up any play/reduction in hand brake efficiency
Next jack the car up and remove the wheels (you can do it through the wheels but easier to remove them). The adjuster is acessed through the hole in the drum (between two of the wheel studs) and is turned with a flat blade (screw driver). It looks like a 'ribbed' wheel and you really need a torch to see it and get the idea of how to move it the first time you try it. Turn the adjuster until the hub/wheel drags then back of a touch. Do the same the other side then tighten the cable adjuster inside the car until the action seems sensible (about 5 clicks for a good pull). It is easier than it sounds!

Cheers

Richard

ThatPhilBrettGuy

11,810 posts

269 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Mr Noble said:
then leave the cat out.

Why? There's no more power (we've proved that on the rollers) and it just meens you get booted off more trackdays...

That said if you've not ordered any, I've got a set of de-cat pipes that you could make be an offer on

falcemob

8,248 posts

265 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Did it fail on the parking brake preformance or excessive travel on the lever? A cable being too slack would hardly be a fail if the hand brake does it's job.


Edited by falcemob on Monday 19th March 19:45

mr2turbo300

406 posts

272 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Must be the day for it, mine just passed it's second today on it's birthday.
Rob.

m12gto3r

108 posts

255 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Dave

I'm in Portishead too. I always hoped that my 3R was unique around here but now I hear you are local and another in Clevedon. Common as muck.

John

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
NobleSteed said:
Chris

To adjust the handbrake you first should BACK OFF the adjuster in the central tunnel behind the handbrake lever. This is accessed by moving the passenger seat forward and removing a small panel on the left side of the tunnel inside the car. DO NOT just tighten this adjuster up to take up any play/reduction in hand brake efficiency
Next jack the car up and remove the wheels (you can do it through the wheels but easier to remove them). The adjuster is acessed through the hole in the drum (between two of the wheel studs) and is turned with a flat blade (screw driver). It looks like a 'ribbed' wheel and you really need a torch to see it and get the idea of how to move it the first time you try it. Turn the adjuster until the hub/wheel drags then back of a touch. Do the same the other side then tighten the cable adjuster inside the car until the action seems sensible (about 5 clicks for a good pull). It is easier than it sounds!

Cheers

Richard


Funny, that. TonyVan pointed out exactly what you need to do to the letter of your post.

Didn't know anthing about it and 2 explinations come along at once.

Bondy

D_G

1,939 posts

238 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Hi John,

Was thinking the same......is yours silver as my missus said she saw a Noble in Portishead a while back, maybe that was you?
Maybe meet up for a chinwag sometime?

Cheers

Dave

joust

14,622 posts

288 months

Monday 19th March 2007
quotequote all
Mr Noble said:
then leave the cat out.
Greg. It does nothing for power, and is a small contribution to stopping your car spewing out all sort of carcinogenic substances.

For all the fluffy bunnies and pretty flowers, get the cats fitted....

J

Mr Noble

6,538 posts

262 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
I was told that I'd get about 10bhp more, flames out the back and a much more throaty sound.

There is only one cat in the system anyway. The front bank just exits straight out and the rear bank goes through a cat.

I can swop the cat in and out myself in an hour or so, so I decided to leave it out to start with.

Funny, as I would have thought there would be a cat in the system from each turbo. confused

Greg

ThatPhilBrettGuy

11,810 posts

269 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
Mr Noble said:
I was told that I'd get about 10bhp more,
Who said that out of interest?

yellowshed

587 posts

312 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
Mr Noble said:
I was told that I'd get about 10bhp more,
Who said that out of interest?


I did, Phil. On the 3R of Mark Clark, we saw about 10bhp more for the cats out. It makes less difference on the M400s because the cats tend not to be the limiting factor.

Greg,

There are normally two cats. I suggested to you that you only fit the one in the rear bank as it would be easy for you to change, and give you half the benefits plus if you test only one side, that would pass emissions.

YellowShed

ThatPhilBrettGuy

11,810 posts

269 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
yellowshed said:
I did, Phil. On the 3R of Mark Clark, we saw about 10bhp more for the cats out. It makes less difference on the M400s because the cats tend not to be the limiting factor.
Ah ha. Right, I'll hold on to my de-cat pipes then, just in case the other limiting factors disappear one day .

joust

14,622 posts

288 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
yellowshed said:
There are normally two cats. I suggested to you that you only fit the one in the rear bank as it would be easy for you to change, and give you half the benefits plus if you test only one side, that would pass emissions.
You fluffy bunny killer you!

Mr Noble

6,538 posts

262 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
Trevor,

Did you only send one cat over to Gary then? We only found one in the box? I thought it a bit odd that one turbo had a cat and the other not.......

Also, out of interest, did Gary get sent a new M400 pump (or call you about it)

I've not heard from him since dropping it off on Saturday. Starting to wonder if its been knicked and they are frantically trying to find it......rolleyes


Greg

Mr Noble

6,538 posts

262 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
joust said:
You fluffy bunny killer you!




I'm off out to homebase to buy a tree and plant it.................

crb1

Original Poster:

922 posts

271 months

Tuesday 20th March 2007
quotequote all
What a response. Thank you for all your contributions. Much appreciated. Nice to know there's a few more local Nobles but as we've all known for a long time, Clevedon has the highest density of Nobles in the country,
that's 22000/3. Maybe 22000/4 soon.