Low/No oil pressure at tickover
Discussion
Not having much luck with the motor again.
Took it to CarLimits Friday. Had a good day. After 6 laps of fast driving noticed oil light on. opened the rear clam to aid cooling and it went off. Thought nothing more of it till driving back it would occasionally flicker.
Checked the oil twice at two services and once when i got home. All seemed fine.
Tonight i had to do an errand, only 15 mile round trip. Did first half fine, then suddenly started to sound very poorly, like a really bad death rattle around 3k rpm on passengers side of car. it gets drowned out at higher revs, but it is very bad.
I know the turbos can work loose, maybe its that?
Also now the oil light is on all the time at tickover, and this is what worries me alot as it has loads of oil in it. flick the revs and off it goes.
Any things to look at before the AA get called out tomorrow morning to collect the car?
Thanks, Adam
Took it to CarLimits Friday. Had a good day. After 6 laps of fast driving noticed oil light on. opened the rear clam to aid cooling and it went off. Thought nothing more of it till driving back it would occasionally flicker.
Checked the oil twice at two services and once when i got home. All seemed fine.
Tonight i had to do an errand, only 15 mile round trip. Did first half fine, then suddenly started to sound very poorly, like a really bad death rattle around 3k rpm on passengers side of car. it gets drowned out at higher revs, but it is very bad.
I know the turbos can work loose, maybe its that?
Also now the oil light is on all the time at tickover, and this is what worries me alot as it has loads of oil in it. flick the revs and off it goes.
Any things to look at before the AA get called out tomorrow morning to collect the car?
Thanks, Adam
Edited by ajg31 on Tuesday 8th May 21:12
Adam,
The oil pressure light is what I call the 'death light', if it comes on then don't run the engine until checked out by an expert. The noises also confirm something is definately wrong.
Could be the relief valve is stuck open, needs to be properly checked out and DON'T start it up again.
Dave
The oil pressure light is what I call the 'death light', if it comes on then don't run the engine until checked out by an expert. The noises also confirm something is definately wrong.
Could be the relief valve is stuck open, needs to be properly checked out and DON'T start it up again.
Dave
Dear Aj,
Agreed - except that I'm afraid I suspect the engine is gone by now if its making noises so whether you run it or not it won't make much difference. Even if its a stuck open releif valve it still means its been running on suboptimal flow.
Mine did this - a light tinkling noise getting louder over the course of a 100 mile drive home ending up as a metalic tap at 2-3000 rpm.
A new engine I fear.
Regards
Paul C
Agreed - except that I'm afraid I suspect the engine is gone by now if its making noises so whether you run it or not it won't make much difference. Even if its a stuck open releif valve it still means its been running on suboptimal flow.
Mine did this - a light tinkling noise getting louder over the course of a 100 mile drive home ending up as a metalic tap at 2-3000 rpm.
A new engine I fear.
Regards
Paul C
I am not a car mechanic, and it seemed fine. TBH a flickering oil light to me did not ring alarm bells as i just thought the viscosity of the oil had been compromised after being run hard.
Amazed 4 minutes of vigourous airfield driving equals a new engine. Ohh well. hard come, easy go.
How long do the engines from the states take to ship over
Amazed 4 minutes of vigourous airfield driving equals a new engine. Ohh well. hard come, easy go.
How long do the engines from the states take to ship over
Edited by ajg31 on Tuesday 8th May 22:20
Thinking about it tho, the first car i looked at had to have a new engine after a trip to Santa Pod. Bet he had a flickering oil light too! Okay then, does anyone have any suggestions for engine builders? I dont want to have to cart the car round the UK, so a onestop shop would be best. Noble Motorsport?
does the car have a track day sump fitted ?
something i always fit to high performance engines after they have been run in is an oil addative that is used by F1 teams - you can run an engine with no oil in it at all for a limited time and there will be no ill effects
you might want to consider a 2nd hand engine from a writeoff - or talk to gary at Crazy horses
is it a 2.5 or a 3.0 ?
also consider a new engine imported from the states - the CR is different but as long as its remapped to suit you could save a few quid
something i always fit to high performance engines after they have been run in is an oil addative that is used by F1 teams - you can run an engine with no oil in it at all for a limited time and there will be no ill effects
you might want to consider a 2nd hand engine from a writeoff - or talk to gary at Crazy horses
is it a 2.5 or a 3.0 ?
also consider a new engine imported from the states - the CR is different but as long as its remapped to suit you could save a few quid
The car has track sump, and is a 3l. Looking thorugh Obes post a rebuild was about 3.5k, cheaper than importing a new engine. Its the 45 hours of labour that will sting to get it in and out. Bit upset to be honest as i really cant afford 8k, hence buying Noble over TVR (well, one of the reasons!)
Cars will be the death of me.
Cars will be the death of me.
I don't doubt that JNM or Roush would do a top drawer job but I have to say that John Edwards at JEMS in Daventry was great on mine. OK he's not a Noble specialist but he did a fine job and is used to building motors with much finer tolerances than those in the Nobles. I would not hesitate to take it there again. He expressed an interest in doing the in and out too on any further ones. Oh and i've already paid for the R & D !!!
Cheers mate. At this moment in time i really am unsure what to do. I am being made redundant on 21st July, and used every penny of savings i had to fund this toy (get the violins out!). Not sure where another 8k can come from.
Time is a big consideration too. If its going to be off the road for a few months, ie all summer i would rather advertise it for 24k and walk away.
Stuck on nights too, which is a pain to sort stuff out as i never feel 100%. Sounds like everyone is sure its a rebuild so i may as well get it shipped directly to JEMS, and see what they find. Thanks everyone
Time is a big consideration too. If its going to be off the road for a few months, ie all summer i would rather advertise it for 24k and walk away.
Stuck on nights too, which is a pain to sort stuff out as i never feel 100%. Sounds like everyone is sure its a rebuild so i may as well get it shipped directly to JEMS, and see what they find. Thanks everyone
ajg31.
Very sorry to hear that, I read your original post on how you'd broke the bank to get it. As someone who is just about to hopefully buy back my old 3R,( if Customs and Excise can give me a def' answer on import duties etc) it's stories like this and big bills that give me the willies, albeit engine failures do seem quite rare. What year/ model is it? If it's a full Noble history car, and relatively low mileage and not TOO old,and the failure isn't due to lack of maintenaince/ abuse etc, would be worth seeing if the factory might have a bit of a sympathetic ear. I'm prepared to be laughed at by the more knowledgeable on here!, but it costs nothing to ask them.
Best of luck.
Very sorry to hear that, I read your original post on how you'd broke the bank to get it. As someone who is just about to hopefully buy back my old 3R,( if Customs and Excise can give me a def' answer on import duties etc) it's stories like this and big bills that give me the willies, albeit engine failures do seem quite rare. What year/ model is it? If it's a full Noble history car, and relatively low mileage and not TOO old,and the failure isn't due to lack of maintenaince/ abuse etc, would be worth seeing if the factory might have a bit of a sympathetic ear. I'm prepared to be laughed at by the more knowledgeable on here!, but it costs nothing to ask them.
Best of luck.
It cant cost that much to re-shell a ford V6 if all you want to do is repair it as standard. Seriously I would call your local Ford main dealer and find out haw much a new Duratec V6 is in the crate.
I scrapped a race Renault engine last week (dropped a valve) and bought a brand new renault 182 F4R engine for jsut over £1000 from a Renault main dealer, That nearly turns it into a consumable.
Unfortunatly you still have the engine swop to deal with.
I'm starting to think there is millage in thinking as soon as you say "Noble" you get ripped off for everything.
I scrapped a race Renault engine last week (dropped a valve) and bought a brand new renault 182 F4R engine for jsut over £1000 from a Renault main dealer, That nearly turns it into a consumable.
Unfortunatly you still have the engine swop to deal with.
I'm starting to think there is millage in thinking as soon as you say "Noble" you get ripped off for everything.
@ SJC, its at 24k had full history to 18k then owner serviced for 4k miles/2 years. I took a chance on what was a good sounding excelent condition Noble. Not sure about the factory being so helpful, the first car i looked at popped its engine too 500 miles after a factory service and he got no help.
I work for Ford and should be intitles to a discount on anything they produce.
It does seem like its my own fault for not understanding that even a flickering oil light meant it was so so ill. Live and learn, just a hard way to learn. Always anal about fluid checks. Just need to decide who looks at it first. Few calls to make. Is the crated ford 3l v6 identical then? Must be 100 ford performance tuners that could do it with their eyes closed. Like everyone says tho, its the 45 hours to get it in and out that sting!!!
I work for Ford and should be intitles to a discount on anything they produce.
It does seem like its my own fault for not understanding that even a flickering oil light meant it was so so ill. Live and learn, just a hard way to learn. Always anal about fluid checks. Just need to decide who looks at it first. Few calls to make. Is the crated ford 3l v6 identical then? Must be 100 ford performance tuners that could do it with their eyes closed. Like everyone says tho, its the 45 hours to get it in and out that sting!!!
ThatPhilBrettGuy said:
I thought the factory quoted hours was 19.5? Might be wrong about that...
34 hours out and in.
www.lotus-elise.org.uk/noble/runningcosts.htm
J
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