Wheel Torque Settings (again!)
Discussion
I've gotta say that all of these seem very high for a (12mm ?) diameter stud ...I would have expected something in the range of 65 lb / ft to 75 lb / ft ...I'm a bit concerned about straining the wheelstuds and possible fracture , but , then again , if thats what the factory reckon ....
The point of having a set tightness is more about getting an even load over the 4/5 studs than making them all tight.
If you do them all up "tight" it may be that the range from 70Nm to 140Nm and this can distort things leading to, amongst other stuff, brake judder.
Thats why its important to do them all up correctally.
1) Offer wheel up to hub and do all up finger tight, with top stud at highest point possible.
2) Do top stud up to 70% of setting
2) Do bottom stud up to 70%
3) Do left then right up to 50%, then again up to 70%
4) Do top up to 100%
5) Bottom 100%
6) Left to 80%, right 80%, left 100%, right 100%
Doing it this way (or similar) helps to keep the rim base totally flat to the hub at all times and ensures all torque settingsa are even AFTER you've finished and driven the car.
If you do them all up "tight" it may be that the range from 70Nm to 140Nm and this can distort things leading to, amongst other stuff, brake judder.
Thats why its important to do them all up correctally.
1) Offer wheel up to hub and do all up finger tight, with top stud at highest point possible.
2) Do top stud up to 70% of setting
2) Do bottom stud up to 70%
3) Do left then right up to 50%, then again up to 70%
4) Do top up to 100%
5) Bottom 100%
6) Left to 80%, right 80%, left 100%, right 100%
Doing it this way (or similar) helps to keep the rim base totally flat to the hub at all times and ensures all torque settingsa are even AFTER you've finished and driven the car.
AMG Merc said:
humpy said:
Thanks Paul. So, according to that thread the wheel torque setting is as follows:80 lb/ft
88 lb/ft
100Nm
120Nm
130Nm (=96lb.ft - favourite)
Any takers?
Mr Noble said:
Doing it this way (or similar) helps to keep the rim base totally flat to the hub at all times and ensures all torque settingsa are even AFTER you've finished and driven the car.
So you've removed the discs to ensure that there are no contaminants or rust between said discs and flange, oh and you've clocked the disc and other components to ensure perfect match with hub and wheel, I don't know who told you this Greg but it's rubbish. Anything other than finger tight and then say 1/4 turn implies serious design defects (especially with alloy wheels) the spigot on the hub will centralise and line up the wheel and disc assembly.
I've always done nuts up like that and afaik its the correct thing to do.
Surely if you fully tighten one at a time, there will be different stresses across the wheel centre thanif you do them all up as I suggested?
Small point I know, but with my recent judder problems, I was going crazy maticulous to get everything ruled out. I was even sanding over all the contact points with emery cloth and had the discs off sanding the backs of where they sit too!!
Something worked as the judder is now sorted.
Surely if you fully tighten one at a time, there will be different stresses across the wheel centre thanif you do them all up as I suggested?
Small point I know, but with my recent judder problems, I was going crazy maticulous to get everything ruled out. I was even sanding over all the contact points with emery cloth and had the discs off sanding the backs of where they sit too!!
Something worked as the judder is now sorted.
Doing them up like that is correct, it's the other stuff i was commenting on, if you have a vibraion you need to find the cause, the best method is a dial guage/clock. Vibration on my car turned out to be incorrectly machined uprights, which were replaced by Noble, Driving the car with excess vibration or warped discs can only do damage to other parts of the car.
If you over tighten the bolts sooner or later you will stretch the studs resulting in the need to keep doing them up tighter and tighter!
If you over tighten the bolts sooner or later you will stretch the studs resulting in the need to keep doing them up tighter and tighter!
Edited by Adrian W on Wednesday 5th September 12:43
Twerlie said:
I have always tightened them up in opposites, but never been that anal about it! Plus a bit of copper ease on the threads always helps.
Motto of the day. "Always check ya nuts"
I was always told you should never put copperslip onto wheel nuts/studs. Not sure if this was because it may alter the torque the bolt sees or if it may help the bolt work loose. I honestly dont know if its good or bad so please feel free to flame me!Motto of the day. "Always check ya nuts"
Edited by ajg31 on Wednesday 5th September 12:49
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