Front wheel Hub
Discussion
Does anybody know what the acceptable amount of run out/deviation should be on the front hubs. I have had a brake vibration and have tracked it down to a hub being out. The side in question gives 6 thou on the outer rim compared to the other side of 2 thou. Once the disc is on, this then increases to 16 thou on the outer edge of the disc which is giving me the vibes! I can get the hub machined locally but dont want to strip down the other side if 2 thou will be ok.
Matty.
Matty.
My car is also an 2004 and I had to have new hubs (sadly at my own expense) to cure vibes. Got really bad in the end, to the point where it was pretty much undrivable over the 80 mph mark on track if you intended to brake for the next corner!
I think 1-2 thou is ok. Mine was about 12 thou and I know RobP had about 14 thou with the same probs.
Hub replacement is the only cure, then you'll need to skim the discs if they've been on the wonky hubs for long. (more than 500 miles or so)
G
I think 1-2 thou is ok. Mine was about 12 thou and I know RobP had about 14 thou with the same probs.
Hub replacement is the only cure, then you'll need to skim the discs if they've been on the wonky hubs for long. (more than 500 miles or so)
G
Thanks Adrian, I think I'll leave the other one for now but after your comment I will be checking the rears at the weekend. By the way, Will the hub just knock through the bearing once Ive removed the dirty big allen bolt and washers. (maybe change the bearing after 14,000 miles with a wobly hub BMW part I think).
Mr Noble said:
My car is also an 2004 and I had to have new hubs (sadly at my own expense) to cure vibes. Got really bad in the end, to the point where it was pretty much undrivable over the 80 mph mark on track if you intended to brake for the next corner!
I think 1-2 thou is ok. Mine was about 12 thou and I know RobP had about 14 thou with the same probs.
Hub replacement is the only cure, then you'll need to skim the discs if they've been on the wonky hubs for long. (more than 500 miles or so)
G
Thanks Greg,I think 1-2 thou is ok. Mine was about 12 thou and I know RobP had about 14 thou with the same probs.
Hub replacement is the only cure, then you'll need to skim the discs if they've been on the wonky hubs for long. (more than 500 miles or so)
G
Was the 12 thou on the hub or disc. Im hoping mine can be skimmed because its only slightly out. My discs done a gentle 50 miles so far so should be ok there.
Remember to be meticulous when assembling discs onto hubs. Both faces must be spotlessly clean and perfectly flat with no little nicks or dings. A human hair is about three to four thou. to give an idea of how tiny we're talking about. It doesn't hurt to lightly "feel" over the faces with a flat file,this will show any imperfection as a shiny high spot.
Dear All,
Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
FUNKSTER UK said:
Thanks Greg,
Was the 12 thou on the hub or disc. Im hoping mine can be skimmed because its only slightly out. My discs done a gentle 50 miles so far so should be ok there.
That was on the disc, but like yours causes solely as a result of the hub.Was the 12 thou on the hub or disc. Im hoping mine can be skimmed because its only slightly out. My discs done a gentle 50 miles so far so should be ok there.
If you swop to a new hub then you shouldn't need to skim the disc. Should solve your problem. Just be aware that the new hub may not be right either
Greg
paulcundy said:
Dear All,
Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
What type of bearings are on the front of the noble, Taper/ball/roller etc. I removed the stub axle bolt again last night and there is a very large amount of play when the bolts out. This would make sense with a taper bearing but looking from the back of the housing it looks like a roller/ball race to me.Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
Hellow all,
we've experienced many brake pulsation problems and wheel bearing failures due to the extreme conditions we put our M400 through, you may know it as the derek whitis noble. after many pad/rotor combinations and wheel bearing upgrades. I believe the weak link is the allen bolt. so I adressed it with a large bolt spline fit custom machined hardened and produced with a tone wheel to get wheel speeds,sense have not had any pedal fade and/or recurring pulsations. all this time I thought the cause was weak wheel bearings and now I'm quite sure it's the clamping fixture failing due to shock loading/rotation and subsequentional loosening. by the way the bearings are from '69 911. the kits I have come with bolts and nuts, I can supply you with nuts to match for the rear axle. takes about 1 hour to change requires 440 nm torque. so you may need to go to the garage to find a very large torque wrench. as for the hubs, yes they are a problem, press out studs and resurface the hub face and re-install with new skf bearing. I believe they are warping due to the car being brought to a stop with the above mentioned problem and the axial play causes the rotor to lean against the inner pad and deflects the 1100 f hub. when the car proceeds again the rotor pulsation begins. I've actually have asked Derek to overheat the brakes to straighten out the hub. 2 laps later the pulsation is gone. just cool them down slowly.
Regards, Troy
regards Troy
we've experienced many brake pulsation problems and wheel bearing failures due to the extreme conditions we put our M400 through, you may know it as the derek whitis noble. after many pad/rotor combinations and wheel bearing upgrades. I believe the weak link is the allen bolt. so I adressed it with a large bolt spline fit custom machined hardened and produced with a tone wheel to get wheel speeds,sense have not had any pedal fade and/or recurring pulsations. all this time I thought the cause was weak wheel bearings and now I'm quite sure it's the clamping fixture failing due to shock loading/rotation and subsequentional loosening. by the way the bearings are from '69 911. the kits I have come with bolts and nuts, I can supply you with nuts to match for the rear axle. takes about 1 hour to change requires 440 nm torque. so you may need to go to the garage to find a very large torque wrench. as for the hubs, yes they are a problem, press out studs and resurface the hub face and re-install with new skf bearing. I believe they are warping due to the car being brought to a stop with the above mentioned problem and the axial play causes the rotor to lean against the inner pad and deflects the 1100 f hub. when the car proceeds again the rotor pulsation begins. I've actually have asked Derek to overheat the brakes to straighten out the hub. 2 laps later the pulsation is gone. just cool them down slowly.
Regards, Troy
regards Troy
FUNKSTER UK said:
paulcundy said:
Dear All,
Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
What type of bearings are on the front of the noble, Taper/ball/roller etc. I removed the stub axle bolt again last night and there is a very large amount of play when the bolts out. This would make sense with a taper bearing but looking from the back of the housing it looks like a roller/ball race to me.Thanks for the various PMs, I've had six or so so there's clearly a problem out there and thus its best to respond via PH. Can somone update the wiki with the outcome?
The problem I am aware of is the front wheel bearings failing prematurely. This may be detected as excessive run out or wobble. Troy Fallick, who prepared one of the USA "super nobles" and others has had some better front axles machined up and these fix the tendency for the bearings to go. I'm hoping he will chime in soon......
Regards
Paul C
nobletech said:
Hellow all,
we've experienced many brake pulsation problems and wheel bearing failures due to the extreme conditions we put our M400 through, you may know it as the derek whitis noble. after many pad/rotor combinations and wheel bearing upgrades. I believe the weak link is the allen bolt. so I adressed it with a large bolt spline fit custom machined hardened and produced with a tone wheel to get wheel speeds,sense have not had any pedal fade and/or recurring pulsations. all this time I thought the cause was weak wheel bearings and now I'm quite sure it's the clamping fixture failing due to shock loading/rotation and subsequentional loosening. by the way the bearings are from '69 911. the kits I have come with bolts and nuts, I can supply you with nuts to match for the rear axle. takes about 1 hour to change requires 440 nm torque. so you may need to go to the garage to find a very large torque wrench. as for the hubs, yes they are a problem, press out studs and resurface the hub face and re-install with new skf bearing. I believe they are warping due to the car being brought to a stop with the above mentioned problem and the axial play causes the rotor to lean against the inner pad and deflects the 1100 f hub. when the car proceeds again the rotor pulsation begins. I've actually have asked Derek to overheat the brakes to straighten out the hub. 2 laps later the pulsation is gone. just cool them down slowly.
Regards, Troy
regards Troy
Troy, we've experienced many brake pulsation problems and wheel bearing failures due to the extreme conditions we put our M400 through, you may know it as the derek whitis noble. after many pad/rotor combinations and wheel bearing upgrades. I believe the weak link is the allen bolt. so I adressed it with a large bolt spline fit custom machined hardened and produced with a tone wheel to get wheel speeds,sense have not had any pedal fade and/or recurring pulsations. all this time I thought the cause was weak wheel bearings and now I'm quite sure it's the clamping fixture failing due to shock loading/rotation and subsequentional loosening. by the way the bearings are from '69 911. the kits I have come with bolts and nuts, I can supply you with nuts to match for the rear axle. takes about 1 hour to change requires 440 nm torque. so you may need to go to the garage to find a very large torque wrench. as for the hubs, yes they are a problem, press out studs and resurface the hub face and re-install with new skf bearing. I believe they are warping due to the car being brought to a stop with the above mentioned problem and the axial play causes the rotor to lean against the inner pad and deflects the 1100 f hub. when the car proceeds again the rotor pulsation begins. I've actually have asked Derek to overheat the brakes to straighten out the hub. 2 laps later the pulsation is gone. just cool them down slowly.
Regards, Troy
regards Troy
Are they front or rear bearings from the 911. Any SKF numbers or do you have the size?.
Very interested in the kits.
Regards Matt.
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