Temp Gauge Prob -- Castle Combe Track Day
Discussion
I wonder if anyone can assist in what i hope was a minor issue i encountered at a track day last week. Car (3r) was going fine for first session, on second session after c10 laps the temp gauge just flicked totally to right not gradual just instant, panicked that car was overheating i got to pits and checked but car was ok. Dod seem as though power was vut when needle flicked over. Next session same again! any ideas, i assume might be temp sender but is this in any way connected to cut power to engine ? Car was not overly hot either time when checked in pits.
The ECU on the 3R (MBE) hold the temp gauge at 90 and only when the temp get to hot according to the ecu it makes the gauge shoot to the right.
So I would suggest that something is getting hot. Maybe next time get a laptop connected and data log it to see what temp the ECU is seeing.
Bondy
So I would suggest that something is getting hot. Maybe next time get a laptop connected and data log it to see what temp the ECU is seeing.
Bondy
bruce916 - they're designed to do that. If the ECU detects the coolant is getting too hot, it sends the gauge off-scale, throws fuel at the engine and retards spark to keep it safe, as requested by Lee himself. It had the desired effect of making you slow down and allowed the engine to cool off.
If you want to continue to drive the car that hard, you need to improve the cooling (which could mean cleaning/replacing the radiator).
Also, believe it or not, the Pro-Alloy intercooler will help as it keeps the charge temperature cooler, which stops the spark retarding because of the high intake air temperature. That in turn makes the exhaust ports cooler which lowers the energy input into the turbos, oil and coolant system and keeps the engine cooler. That means less work for the coolant system to do (it cools the turbos, too).
Hope that helps,
YellowShed
If you want to continue to drive the car that hard, you need to improve the cooling (which could mean cleaning/replacing the radiator).
Also, believe it or not, the Pro-Alloy intercooler will help as it keeps the charge temperature cooler, which stops the spark retarding because of the high intake air temperature. That in turn makes the exhaust ports cooler which lowers the energy input into the turbos, oil and coolant system and keeps the engine cooler. That means less work for the coolant system to do (it cools the turbos, too).
Hope that helps,
YellowShed
Edited by YellowShed on Thursday 14th August 12:45 for clarity about improving the cooling
Edited by YellowShed on Thursday 14th August 12:46
mgbond said:
I'm no expert but I've never herd of the coolant getting too hot when driving hard on track! as there is alot of air coming in the front. Could there be another issue like a blocked or restricted hose?
Bondy
You're not trying Bondy

Actually it usually happens if you're reving to the red line all the time, which you don't need to do. Change around 6K and it's 99% as fast but runs much cooler.
had this on my gto3 on track, it only had the single fan on the radiator without the better fitting cowling. when i got in from a session the coolant was bubbling in the expansion tank. changed the radiator, which was full of sediment apparantly and to the upgraded cowling, no probs after that
conleth
conleth
Edited by CTO3 on Thursday 14th August 11:49
i've used this stuff before and it does work
http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/prodtype.asp?strPa...
however you loose it if you drain the rad !!
http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/prodtype.asp?strPa...
however you loose it if you drain the rad !!
gadgeroonie said:
i've used this stuff before and it does work
http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/prodtype.asp?strPa...
however you loose it if you drain the rad !!
I was just about to order a bottle, but decided not to when I saw they charge £7:50 for a 2/3 day delivery on a tiny little bottle!http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/prodtype.asp?strPa...
however you loose it if you drain the rad !!
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