Manifold
Author
Discussion

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Monday 12th January 2009
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Having removed my turbo for the third time in two months this weekend I noticed the manifold has an inch-long crack along the top in line with the middle arm. What are my options? As I see it there are three:

1. Welding in place - the area is fairly accessible with the heatshield out of the way.

2. Removal for reweld. Is removing the studs going to leave me with broken bits of stud sticking out (or worse, not sticking out at all) and no easy way of removal?

3. Removal for replacement. Do I need to go to the factory/stealer for a new one?

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Monday 12th January 2009
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probably best renmove for reweld and strentghen.

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Monday 12th January 2009
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we removed and rewelded and stengthened. seems ok now. Ideally go for new as there is a new stronger design I believe.

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Monday 12th January 2009
quotequote all
Biggriff said:
we removed and rewelded and stengthened. seems ok now. Ideally go for new as there is a new stronger design I believe.
How did you find the removal?

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Monday 12th January 2009
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Garage said they came off fine after being soaked in plusgas

TIGERSIX

969 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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NobleGuy said:
Biggriff said:
we removed and rewelded and stengthened. seems ok now. Ideally go for new as there is a new stronger design I believe.
How did you find the removal?
I used lots of oil and duckoil an air gun turned down to rattle the acessable 1s out, the two on top in the middle get a long punch and tap them steadily for a minute or so to shake the rust of before attempting to remove

Lakelord

1,756 posts

233 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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I'm told the M400 manifolds are more robust so went that route when mine cracked. Paid £150 (rear) and £170 (front) so not too expensive if you offset that against the re-welding charges. If you do re-weld, they need to be strengthened/gusseted or it will just re-occur in the future.

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Lakelord said:
I'm told the M400 manifolds are more robust so went that route when mine cracked. Paid £150 (rear) and £170 (front) so not too expensive if you offset that against the re-welding charges. If you do re-weld, they need to be strengthened/gusseted or it will just re-occur in the future.
That's not too bad at all price-wise. Was expecting a bit more TBH.
Can I ask where you got hold of them?

I know I should really do the rear at the same time but everything looks fine and dandy there - no oil loss from the turbo and no manifold cracks. If it ain't broke and all that...

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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If you do replace could you keep hold of the spare and i could weld/gusset it for anyone to swap and do the same once another is removed. Gives me something to do when bored. biggrin

mgbond

6,749 posts

261 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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S26VE P said:
If you do replace could you keep hold of the spare and i could weld/gusset it for anyone to swap and do the same once another is removed. Gives me something to do when bored.


Has anyone got any pics of what the gusset set up looks like. I will be swapping exhaust soon so this might be the time to strengthen mine.

Bondy

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Think its a matter of seeing when its off.

Lakelord

1,756 posts

233 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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NobleGuy said:
Lakelord said:
I'm told the M400 manifolds are more robust so went that route when mine cracked. Paid £150 (rear) and £170 (front) so not too expensive if you offset that against the re-welding charges. If you do re-weld, they need to be strengthened/gusseted or it will just re-occur in the future.
That's not too bad at all price-wise. Was expecting a bit more TBH.
Can I ask where you got hold of them?
Supplied by Plans but also had a quote from JNM at a very similar price.

S26VE P said:
If you do replace could you keep hold of the spare and i could weld/gusset it for anyone to swap and do the same once another is removed. Gives me something to do when bored. biggrin
Still have the old ones as was planning on doing just that. All we need is a NOBILITY meet in the near future and I'll pass them over to you

Edited by Lakelord on Tuesday 13th January 14:30

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for all your help chaps. As usual your information is priceless.

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Lakelord said:
S26VE P said:
If you do replace could you keep hold of the spare and i could weld/gusset it for anyone to swap and do the same once another is removed. Gives me something to do when bored. biggrin
Still have the old ones as was planning on doing just that. All we need is a NOBILITY meet in the near future and I'll pass them over to you
Cool.

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Thursday 15th January 2009
quotequote all
Lakelord said:
I'm told the M400 manifolds are more robust so went that route when mine cracked. Paid £150 (rear) and £170 (front) so not too expensive if you offset that against the re-welding charges. If you do re-weld, they need to be strengthened/gusseted or it will just re-occur in the future.
Just got quoted £293 for the front manifold.
Plus Carriage.
Plus VAT.

So probably around £350....

Lakelord

1,756 posts

233 months

Thursday 15th January 2009
quotequote all
NobleGuy said:
Lakelord said:
I'm told the M400 manifolds are more robust so went that route when mine cracked. Paid £150 (rear) and £170 (front) so not too expensive if you offset that against the re-welding charges. If you do re-weld, they need to be strengthened/gusseted or it will just re-occur in the future.
Just got quoted £293 for the front manifold.
Plus Carriage.
Plus VAT.

So probably around £350....
That sounds mighty expensive to me. I know I bought mine ten months ago and that metal prices have gone up since then but that's taking the pcensoreds. I take it you've phoned around as there was some 'variation' when I was getting quotes?

S26VE P

2,174 posts

271 months

Friday 16th January 2009
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Prices are heading back down on steel now tho. We are paying £200 LESS per tonne at the moment to 3 months ago And still going down every month.

Adrian W

15,493 posts

257 months

Friday 16th January 2009
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S26VE P said:
Prices are heading back down on steel now tho. We are paying £200 LESS per tonne at the moment to 3 months ago And still going down every month.
Theres not a lot of steel in a Noble exhaust manifold, looks like a lot of steal though!

NobleGuy

Original Poster:

7,133 posts

244 months

Friday 16th January 2009
quotequote all
Two things.

Firstly Plans quote me 243.75 + VAT + Carriage, so slightly less but not much.

Secondly they mentioned that Noble are currently re-designing stainless steel manifolds to get round the cracking issue.

At those prices I'm tempted to go for a re-weld.

P.S. How the flying f*** do you get to the bolt on the manifold nearest the alternator? Do you access it from above, below, left or right? Seems that every way I try something solid is in the way stopping me. Grrrr!

Adrian W

15,493 posts

257 months

Friday 16th January 2009
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A nice good quality thin sided ring spanner, as with most jobs good quality tools help a lot