Discussion
Dont know if this will help but I had the same prob. I posted the fault and was told to first clean the holes (I used a drill, but Im told a coat-hanger will do and yes it does take a while!) and then brake hard from about 80mph to 30mph about 4-6 times. P.S dont try drilling the holes when driving at 80mph before some clever sod comments!!lol. Worth a shot it worked a treat for me. Best of luck, Paul
Order of play-
1. clean discs as described by wessexrfc
2. If this dosn't work get the run-out checked (easy at any competent garage)
3. If run-out excessive, replace hubs and either skim discs if there's plenty of meat left, or, preferably replace along with pads. No point in just replacing hubs or just replacing discs. If there's a problem with run-out you have to do both.
1. clean discs as described by wessexrfc
2. If this dosn't work get the run-out checked (easy at any competent garage)
3. If run-out excessive, replace hubs and either skim discs if there's plenty of meat left, or, preferably replace along with pads. No point in just replacing hubs or just replacing discs. If there's a problem with run-out you have to do both.
D_G said:
Much better still is to skim the brakes on the car which will eliminate both disc and hub runout.
Dave
Totally agree, I went this route in the end and it was a transformation.Dave
Even when Noble agreed there was some issues with the machining on the original hubs and sold me some at cost price I still had the Wobbles.
The problem seems to be with the way the original ford stub axles are turned down to suit there choice of bearing.
Before I got the new ones I tried skimming the old hubs/stubs with no joy and then when the new ones were fiited it was just as bad as before before with up to 16 thou run out.
A garage in Norwich skimmed my new grooved discs on the car and now its fantastic." At last no more vibrations "
Matty.
The issue was poor or out of line boring of the upright to accept the bearing. there is an opportunity for an industrious sole as Noble charge fortunes for new uprights, if you found a suitable bearing and had a way of holding it you could rebore the upright. And of course while you were at it you could do the other machining to enable adjustable camber.
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