Discussion
Typical - hot weather and the air-con is playing up... The compressor clutch is continually engaging and then disengaging (every few seconds) when the engine is running. It stays engaged continually if the engine is not turning but the ignition is on so it doesn`t seem to be a relay or clutch problem. I`ve now had the system refilled so that`s not the problem (low pressure). I suspect that it`s a high pressure switch problem where the latter is sensing what it thinks is a high system pressure and then shuts off the compressor, the pressure drops and the clutch engages again and so on.... Does this diagnosis make sense and if so what is the switch from/part number? If not what else could it be??? I want to be forwarned before getting the local air-con `experts` involved....
BobE said:
Typical - hot weather and the air-con is playing up... The compressor clutch is continually engaging and then disengaging (every few seconds) when the engine is running. It stays engaged continually if the engine is not turning but the ignition is on so it doesn`t seem to be a relay or clutch problem. I`ve now had the system refilled so that`s not the problem (low pressure). I suspect that it`s a high pressure switch problem where the latter is sensing what it thinks is a high system pressure and then shuts off the compressor, the pressure drops and the clutch engages again and so on.... Does this diagnosis make sense and if so what is the switch from/part number? If not what else could it be??? I want to be forwarned before getting the local air-con `experts` involved....
Over filling can cause this problem.Noble suggest 1KG fill,
However I had mine filled to 950gm and it ran perfectly.
When you had the system re-filled was it vacuumed and recovered beforehand?
I hear this is the best way to get a good result, if the system isn't fully vacuumed you will probably have too much refridgerant in the system.
F.C.
F.C is spot on its cutting in and out on the HP (high pressure) switch. If you can get to it , blow the condenser out with an air line carefully, condenser will be mounted infront of the rad (it looks like a radiator). Have you been to quick-fit and had there nonsence "top-up" to improve 10%?????. This doesn't work. If you have, or the above doesn't work, take it to a local frig company who can do automotive a/c (not a garage). Get the engineer to reclaim the gas, vac and recharge. I must say 900grams seems quite a large gas charge, (average car charge is between 600-800grams) I would say about 700grams then finish on pressure and sweat-back on the suction pipe. A good frig engineer will have no problem with this. HTH 
Thanks guys for the replies. The car was doing this before I had the re-fill - they took out 850gm and put back in 1000gm and they did vacuum the system down. I`ll now take it to the local vehicle air-con specialist. Why is there such a difference between the UK and US systems as I calculate the US version has only 635gms yet the system seems very similar?
An update... The problem seems to be an internal fault in the compressor - or so says my local automotive air-con experts - who are struggling to source a replacement. (You could buy a reasonable secondhand car for what the `stealers` want.....) Now the WIKI says the part is a Sanden TRS 090 model 3016 - but what car is it off to make sourcing easier - anyone know?
Thanks again in advance for your help!
Thanks again in advance for your help!
Thanks for your help guys. I`ve managed to locate a supplier in Cheltenham. An interesting price comparison.... New supplier: £342 inc VAT for a brand new unit. Noble cars £1188.....Just unbelievable. I really don`t mind within reason paying a modest premium for a hassle free purchase but an extra £845 is just a rip off. What a price to pay if you wanted to maintain a full `Noble` service history....(I do hope the WIKI info is correct...I think it should be as I found out that the model quoted is a `general purpose direct mount unit` which seems right). I`ll let you know.
An update - written with some degree of frustration.... I won`t `publish` - yet - the company through which I`ve sourced the compressor as although it was the cheapest source at the time, when I eventually got it I picked it up from another (wholesale) source and it would be better to go through the latter if you don`t want any trauma (otherwise it must be cash and takes 4 weeks - a fair amount of which was spent with the compressor sitting on the shelf of the wholesaler). However.....the existing compressor was removed from the car today and it is not a TRS090 model 3016 but a TRS090 model 3023. The only difference is the pulley design that is engaged by the 6 `tooth` V-belt. On the 3023 there are 8 grooves , 6 of which are used (the 6 inner) by the belt drive leaving 2 (outer) unused. On the 3016 there are 6 grooves - BUT - not they are not the correct 6 grooves - 4 are correct and 2 are the unused outers from the correct model. (If you did fit the belt it would run out of line and get thrown off). I`m now in a three way hassle trying to sort things out with garage who diagnosed the fault, myself who ordered the `incorrect` compressor and the final supplier. Currently it looks like the old pulley wheel can be put on the new compressor and the wholesale supplier (who also rebuilds units) is looking to do this in the next day or so. I`ll keep you posted - but in the meantime whoever has access to the Noble Wiki/Nobel Parts can they please change the designation to a TRS 090 model 3023 on at least the 3R section.
BobE said:
An update - written with some degree of frustration.... I won`t `publish` - yet - the company through which I`ve sourced the compressor as although it was the cheapest source at the time, when I eventually got it I picked it up from another (wholesale) source and it would be better to go through the latter if you don`t want any trauma (otherwise it must be cash and takes 4 weeks - a fair amount of which was spent with the compressor sitting on the shelf of the wholesaler). However.....the existing compressor was removed from the car today and it is not a TRS090 model 3016 but a TRS090 model 3023. The only difference is the pulley design that is engaged by the 6 `tooth` V-belt. On the 3023 there are 8 grooves , 6 of which are used (the 6 inner) by the belt drive leaving 2 (outer) unused. On the 3016 there are 6 grooves - BUT - not they are not the correct 6 grooves - 4 are correct and 2 are the unused outers from the correct model. (If you did fit the belt it would run out of line and get thrown off). I`m now in a three way hassle trying to sort things out with garage who diagnosed the fault, myself who ordered the `incorrect` compressor and the final supplier. Currently it looks like the old pulley wheel can be put on the new compressor and the wholesale supplier (who also rebuilds units) is looking to do this in the next day or so. I`ll keep you posted - but in the meantime whoever has access to the Noble Wiki/Nobel Parts can they please change the designation to a TRS 090 model 3023 on at least the 3R section.
Cheers for the update Bob. I've added the info to the wiki. I suspect that it might be a bit random which version goes on which car....Bob, I hope it wasn't one of the guys I recommended. If it was PM me the details and I'll have a "chat" with them. If comp is wrong, you should be able to return it with a small handling charge. We have an account with these companys so if you need a trade price etc etc, just let me know.
Cheers
Paul
Cheers
Paul
Final update....I hope! I`ve got the car back now and have loads of cold air - which means winter is now going to happen. Basically the high side switch had malfunctioned which meant the compressor was rapidly cutting in and out and this eventually destroyed the compressor clutch. The new compressor now has the old pulley wheel fitted but with the new clutch etc. I just hope it`s all now fixed - I can hear the clutch engaging and disengaging every few minutes whilst driving along which seems correct. The compressor came from Auto Air in Gloucester who seem like a knowledgeable source for parts and are a major distributor of all things `vehicle aircon` in the UK.
They work, the stronger the better though. Usually use ones called bombs and you set the aircon going and set if off in the car and shut the door. Get out first though as its not healthy. It just kills the bacteria on the evaporator in the dash. You know you've got a problem and it needs doing because the car smells funny
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