Discussion
Need an oil change on my M400 and there are several people on other forums talking about Mobil 1 0W40 being avaliable from Costco for around £23 for 4 litres. Anyone know if Mobil 1 is better / worse than the Shell Helix Ultra which Noble specify, or any other recommendations from anyone?
Cheers
Richard
Cheers
Richard
NobleSteed said:
Need an oil change on my M400 and there are several people on other forums talking about Mobil 1 0W40 being avaliable from Costco for around £23 for 4 litres. Anyone know if Mobil 1 is better / worse than the Shell Helix Ultra which Noble specify, or any other recommendations from anyone?
Cheers
Richard
I moved away from Mobile 1 when it went to 0W40 as it was just too thin even for the modded cossie I was running back then.Cheers
Richard
Choosing the correct oil is an enormously complex subject, too often people choose an oil with a too high upper viscosity which is greater than is needed, thinking they are giving greater protection. This is a common mistake.
Climate and applied use are important factors, and if anyone (decent) made a 0W40 or similar oil, I would be using it. Most engine wear occurs during startup (where the first number of the viscosity rating is most relevant).
stick to the Tri Ester quality oils (Motul, Silkolene, Royal Purple) and you won't go far wrong.
Mike.
Climate and applied use are important factors, and if anyone (decent) made a 0W40 or similar oil, I would be using it. Most engine wear occurs during startup (where the first number of the viscosity rating is most relevant).
stick to the Tri Ester quality oils (Motul, Silkolene, Royal Purple) and you won't go far wrong.
Mike.
Just to add that if considering anything I have mentioned anywhere, that considerations need to be drawn.
Let's face it, an Asian breathes in an entirely diifferent way than a European, and my expertise relates to the way an Asian (japanese) person breathes, so I could easily be way offf here.
Mike.
Let's face it, an Asian breathes in an entirely diifferent way than a European, and my expertise relates to the way an Asian (japanese) person breathes, so I could easily be way offf here.

Mike.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I tend to use my M400 only occasionally, it gets a fair 'workout' on the peak district roads without being completely thrashed (can you thrash an M400 on public roads anyway - don't answer that, that's another thread probably not sensible to start!!). I also very rarely do a trackday. It doesn't usually go anywhere from Dec to Mar (unless dry and no salt around), so it is started and run in cold weather from time to time.
With that in mind, and the comments about how thin Mobil one is now (0W40) if I went down the Silkolene/Motul route with Opie Oils, is 10W50 a better bet than 5W40 or the other way round for a predominantly road car. Obviously the 5W40 would be thinner at start up, but also thinner at running temp. Also, as I will be draining the Shell Helix Ultra is any 'flushing' or oter 'treatment' required before/after going down the Silkolene route. Sorry to be a pain chaps but don't want to make a c--k up!!
Cheers
Richard
With that in mind, and the comments about how thin Mobil one is now (0W40) if I went down the Silkolene/Motul route with Opie Oils, is 10W50 a better bet than 5W40 or the other way round for a predominantly road car. Obviously the 5W40 would be thinner at start up, but also thinner at running temp. Also, as I will be draining the Shell Helix Ultra is any 'flushing' or oter 'treatment' required before/after going down the Silkolene route. Sorry to be a pain chaps but don't want to make a c--k up!!
Cheers
Richard
oil! an absolute mine field.i have followed and listened to so many forum threads and people in the know so to speak.i am a avid supporter of the ester synthetic silkolene oils but the escos i owned hated the stuff.against advice i tried the castrol 10w 60w and was amazed on how quiet and how good the oil temp and pressue was.the guy who bought it from me still uses this oil .the car is on its original engine with no rebuilds and over 130k miles

Artie
Exactly as you say, there are so many considerations. My understanding has always been that you have to have the correct and uninterrupted flow of oil through all the different bearings, and the temperature has to be within certain limits for the oil to work correctly. So we need a relatively thin oil for start up that will not get too thin when hot, then we turbo the engine and it affects the whole issue again!! Choices choices
I suppose you would expect a 10W60 to give a higher oil pressure, but is that actually a measure of 'better', if you took things to extremes and pumped a very thick oil around we would get extremely high pressure but(I suspect)worse lubrication.
This all has to be a balance, an average Ford 3.0 V6 will do a big mileage on recommended oils, yes i know our engines move the goal posts, it is just trying to get the right choice with those 'moved goal posts' and type of use the car gets
Cheers
Richard
Exactly as you say, there are so many considerations. My understanding has always been that you have to have the correct and uninterrupted flow of oil through all the different bearings, and the temperature has to be within certain limits for the oil to work correctly. So we need a relatively thin oil for start up that will not get too thin when hot, then we turbo the engine and it affects the whole issue again!! Choices choices
I suppose you would expect a 10W60 to give a higher oil pressure, but is that actually a measure of 'better', if you took things to extremes and pumped a very thick oil around we would get extremely high pressure but(I suspect)worse lubrication.
This all has to be a balance, an average Ford 3.0 V6 will do a big mileage on recommended oils, yes i know our engines move the goal posts, it is just trying to get the right choice with those 'moved goal posts' and type of use the car gets
Cheers
Richard
Richard
If you were to use Motul 300 V 10/40 I don't think you are going far wrong as it gives you the cold protection you need and enough up the top end of the heat range too keep things cool,it is very stable and doesn't have too many additives to boost the viscosity.
I used it all the time in my Nob untill I upped the power a bit and when my engine was stripped at 50k it showed minimal signs of wear.All IMHO of course
Steve
If you were to use Motul 300 V 10/40 I don't think you are going far wrong as it gives you the cold protection you need and enough up the top end of the heat range too keep things cool,it is very stable and doesn't have too many additives to boost the viscosity.
I used it all the time in my Nob untill I upped the power a bit and when my engine was stripped at 50k it showed minimal signs of wear.All IMHO of course
Steve
Thanks again everyone, I suspect as Steve says a good quality 14W40 should be fine for the standard car. I've just re read my previous post and would just like to say to Artie that if I came across in the post as a little ungrateful I didn't mean it at all, I was just a little concerned about going as thick as 60 grade, and trying to get my head round what to do for the best!!!
Cheers
Richard
Cheers
Richard
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