Floor pan

[hoyin]

OK I am going to get the floor pan out and seal it properly.

I am going to use Sikaflex 221.

http://www.theyachtshop.co.uk/items/paint~maintena...

Any ideas on how many tubes I will need? 1 or 2?

What did you use to repaint the chasis?

Also I cannot find the breather pipe that comes out from under the floor pan. For the life of me I cannot see a hole around the rear passenger wheel.

Anyone got a photo marking its position?

[daddysumo]

hoyin said:

OK I am going to get the floor pan out and seal it properly.

I am going to use Sikaflex 221.

www.theyachtshop.co.uk/items/paint~maintenance-and-electrical/sealants/sealant-sikaflex-221-h00577-detail.htm

Any ideas on how many tubes I will need? 1 or 2?

What did you use to repaint the chasis?

Also I cannot find the breather pipe that comes out from under the floor pan. For the life of me I cannot see a hole around the rear passenger wheel.

Anyone got a photo marking its position?

One tube is more than enough.

I used POR 15 to do mine its the muts but dont get it on your hands as it takes days to get off !

Tank breather...should be a hole in pod floor in front of the passenger rear wheel about 2 inches in.

Steve

[Lakelord]

hoyin said:

What did you use to repaint the chasis?

Hammerite.

Are you going to waxoyl the chassis as well?

[TuxMan]

Hi Hoyin , only piccy i can find but its the black hose running over fuel pump .

[pic][/pic]

[hoyin]

Oh so it is tiny!

It looks like it is only 1 inch diameter??

Maybe thats why I can't see it .. I was looking for a large duct.

Waxoyl - do I inject this into the frame? I guess it is worth doing. How much of this do I need? Is there just one type?

[daddysumo]

less than half inch dia !

[The devil]

Ihave just done my floor. I paid about a fiver a tube of sikaflex and used about 3/4 of a tube.
My floor did not need painting as it was in such good condition. I did inject my chassis with waxoyl for 2 reasons. 1/ To help preserve the chassis and 2/ Once you have drilled the rivets out the waxoyl stops the rivet heads from rolling round and making you crazy.

I shot the waxoyl in throught the old rivet holes as it comes with a small tube that just fits through, dont do what I did though and shoot it through the angle bars instead of the box section, makes a hell of a mess of the windscreen LOL.

I cleaned the old floor off but it was crap so for £70 I bought a new sheet of aluminium and put that on, slightly thicker at 2mm as well.
They cut it to the exact size and then I cut the 2 slots out with a jigsaw in 10 minutes.

I also bought some neoprene from ebay and stuck that on where the floor meets the chassis, the original floor had a sticky seal before so though it was a good idea.

Must admit, touch wood it hasn't leaked yet and I have been through some rough weather

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Neoprene-Rubber-self-adhesiv...

Edited by The devil on Monday 25th January 18:16

[wessexrfc]

Some pics of my rear frame being preped and waxoyled. Rule of thumb is, you don't need a great deal, drill a small hole and squirt a small amount into the frame, then seal. The rear end gets very hot and being wax it will melt to a liquid. We went a bit ott and I'm still wiping up wax off the rear undertray(last pic you can see the melted wax) HTH

Edited by wessexrfc on Monday 25th January 20:11

[ajg31]

When these Nobles come up for sale they're gonna be in better nick than when they left the factory

[Urbalizer]

The devil said:

I shot the waxoyl in throught the old rivet holes as it comes with a small tube that just fits through, dont do what I did though and shoot it through the angle bars instead of the box section, makes a hell of a mess of the windscreen LOL.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Neoprene-Rubber-self-adhesiv...

Edited by The devil on Monday 25th January 18:16

[Bizarro]

wessexrfc said:

Some pics of my rear frame being preped and waxoyled. Rule of thumb is, you don't need a great deal, drill a small hole and squirt a small amount into the frame, then seal. The rear end gets very hot and being wax it will melt to a liquid. We went a bit ott and I'm still wiping up wax off the rear undertray(last pic you can see the melted wax) HTH

Wessex
I need to do similar to yours on the chassis of my car due to light surface corrosion, I assume once clean you have painted it with black hamerite and then covered with the silver insulted foil. Is the foil self adhesive and where did you buy it from?
Thanks

[wessexrfc]

Bizarro said:

wessexrfc said:

Some pics of my rear frame being preped and waxoyled. Rule of thumb is, you don't need a great deal, drill a small hole and squirt a small amount into the frame, then seal. The rear end gets very hot and being wax it will melt to a liquid. We went a bit ott and I'm still wiping up wax off the rear undertray(last pic you can see the melted wax) HTH

Wessex
I need to do similar to yours on the chassis of my car due to light surface corrosion, I assume once clean you have painted it with black hamerite and then covered with the silver insulted foil. Is the foil self adhesive and where did you buy it from?
Thanks

Dave, from urban-racing did the refirb, full rub down, prime and smoothrite. The silver foil is standard from most plumbing/heating wholesalers and comes self adhesive, covered the bottom side of the intercooler box as well, btw we did all the springs, dampeners and undertray at the same time. We used the same foil to cover the top side of the undertray.







and a few bits of stainless steel

[andygtt]

The chasis rails dont need to be protected by heat only the paint from burning off and corroding... Im not planning on replacing the foil on the chasis as it has just traped water and actually caused what it was trying to prevent.... doesnt help that the chasis had 1 micron of paint on it lol

Gona heat wrap the exhaust the same as in those pictures and fit alloy plates were the exhaust goes close to the chasis at the bottom and double skin the intercooler box as well as wrapping it even more.

[wessexrfc]

andygtt said:

The chasis rails dont need to be protected by heat only the paint from burning off and corroding... Im not planning on replacing the foil on the chasis as it has just traped water and actually caused what it was trying to prevent.... doesnt help that the chasis had 1 micron of paint on it lol

Gona heat wrap the exhaust the same as in those pictures and fit alloy plates were the exhaust goes close to the chasis at the bottom and double skin the intercooler box as well as wrapping it even more.

[Bizarro]

Thanks, looks like Im up for a busy weekend!!

Stainless exhaust looks great, what make is it?

[wessexrfc]

Bizarro said:

Thanks, looks like Im up for a busy weekend!!

Stainless exhaust looks great, what make is it?

Made by Urban Racing, designed in part by Blue flame:
http://www.urban-racing.com/
http://www.blueflameperformance.com/

Just to give you a little taste of the sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXJwHEpIMXA

[Inflict]

wessexrfc said:

Bizarro said:

Thanks, looks like Im up for a busy weekend!!

Stainless exhaust looks great, what make is it?

Made by Urban Racing, designed in part by Blue flame:
http://www.urban-racing.com/
http://www.blueflameperformance.com/

Just to give you a little taste of the sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXJwHEpIMXA

wow, that looks and sounds great! Could you possibly provide all the details i.e cost, time to fit, where, is it a full system?, remap?, is it ok volume in cabin, power increase etc etc. I'm really interested! Thanks in advance!

[wessexrfc]

Inflict said:

wessexrfc said:

Bizarro said:

Thanks, looks like Im up for a busy weekend!!

Stainless exhaust looks great, what make is it?

Made by Urban Racing, designed in part by Blue flame:
http://www.urban-racing.com/
http://www.blueflameperformance.com/

Just to give you a little taste of the sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXJwHEpIMXA

wow, that looks and sounds great! Could you possibly provide all the details i.e cost, time to fit, where, is it a full system?, remap?, is it ok volume in cabin, power increase etc etc. I'm really interested! Thanks in advance!

Your asking something there!!!! right here goes for tring to find the thread:
Exhaust dyno after exhaust
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... 3R dyno-test results
As for cost, I had alot done, but the exhaust fitted with new cats, heat wrapped, fuel pump and wiring loom for the pump was around £1250 plus vat. Ring Dave @Urban(see above) I brought mine on a group, could be a bit more expensive now, but it will be worth it. The improvements were noticeable straight away, not massive as I haven’t gone for a remap (yet) Hp as you can see is up to aprox 357 increase of around 5-8%? hard to tell as the car wasn't dynoed before. For sound in the cabin, there’s no problem. I had my silentsers sleeved to give a bit more of a throaty tone but its up to you, Dave can make it how you like. Time wise, when I had mine done it was early days for Dave so I would think he could turn around a bit quicker(took him 2 months on mine but as I said we did a lot of work.) With Urban the boss is the guy working on your car, he even caught a easyjet flight down to Exeter to collect the car, all part of the service!!!! HTH
Just found another clip of a sound test, don't take too much notice of the readings due to the cars reving etc etc, bit of nonsense really:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86Vf6rk082w

Edited by wessexrfc on Saturday 30th January 00:34

[BobE]

andygtt said:

The chasis rails dont need to be protected by heat only the paint from burning off and corroding... Im not planning on replacing the foil on the chasis as it has just traped water and actually caused what it was trying to prevent.... doesnt help that the chasis had 1 micron of paint on it lol

Gona heat wrap the exhaust the same as in those pictures and fit alloy plates were the exhaust goes close to the chasis at the bottom and double skin the intercooler box as well as wrapping it even more.

I`m also amazed that there are no drain holes in the diffuser/undertray as it`s a perfect water trap for when it rains or you wash the car.(Water collects in pools next to the chassis members and no doubt wicks into the gap between the chassis rails and the undertray). I intend to drill some in mine in strategic areas - once it`s warm enough.....

[david.mt]

Whilst I had my car up on the ramp I decided I would do the same and reseal the front floor pan (and probably the others if its relatively easy). My front chassis also has some signs of rust so will also rub it down and repaint.

Now I have almost (broke the drill bit ) drilled all the front rivets out but there are around 6 hex bolts also in the front floor pan that I can loosen but they don't unscrew and come out - what are they for and I presume they have nuts or something on the other side (the car is up in the air so I couldn't lift the clam and have a look) - do they have to come out

If anyone is interested there's a chap on eBay selling Sikaflex 221 at £2.25 a tube. I have bought a couple - they are cosmetically damaged tubes but easily bent back into shape to be used.