Discussion
I don't have a garage in which I can work in so I always have to take my car to a indie to get any work I want done.
I want to get my floor pan resealed. The quote I have got so far is £600 labour cost.
To me this seems quite excessive.
What are your opinions? It is an easy job and not technical at all so I should be able to take it to my local indie that does not specialise in fast cars and get it done there?
I want to get my floor pan resealed. The quote I have got so far is £600 labour cost.
To me this seems quite excessive.
What are your opinions? It is an easy job and not technical at all so I should be able to take it to my local indie that does not specialise in fast cars and get it done there?
You are quite right, its not a very technical job.
I took mine off over xmas and replaced it with a new one that I made. I also had to do mine without the aid of a ramp so I was on my back. It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours (if that) to take it off by drilling the rivets out. I then cleaaned off the old sealant which in my case easily pealed off and the metal work was in great shape.
A good clean of the old floor if you are not replaceing it. and then refit it.
I managed to reinstall mine in a couple of hours on my own on my back in the freezing cold.
I didn't come across any problems on mine but I cannot see why it should take more than a day.
There are minimal materials involved, I used a tube of Sikaflex, I also used neoprene as a sealer and either rivets or screws.
Thats about is.
The trickiest bit is getting the sealer on in the right place and holding it in position whilst the first few fixings are put in.
I originally enquired about getting mine resealed at a Noble dealer when I first got my Noble and was suggested a price of just under a grand.
Hope that helps
I took mine off over xmas and replaced it with a new one that I made. I also had to do mine without the aid of a ramp so I was on my back. It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours (if that) to take it off by drilling the rivets out. I then cleaaned off the old sealant which in my case easily pealed off and the metal work was in great shape.
A good clean of the old floor if you are not replaceing it. and then refit it.
I managed to reinstall mine in a couple of hours on my own on my back in the freezing cold.
I didn't come across any problems on mine but I cannot see why it should take more than a day.
There are minimal materials involved, I used a tube of Sikaflex, I also used neoprene as a sealer and either rivets or screws.
Thats about is.
The trickiest bit is getting the sealer on in the right place and holding it in position whilst the first few fixings are put in.
I originally enquired about getting mine resealed at a Noble dealer when I first got my Noble and was suggested a price of just under a grand.
Hope that helps
Are you saying 6 hours for all 3 panels that are sealed - front, middle and rear before the engine bay. What about the sides? What about the carpet?
Do you not have to take the front clam off the access the bolts holding the front panel on and then how easy is it to remove the bolts holding the seats in which also secure the rear panel.
Even with a ramp you have to move the car several times as there are rivets that are in line with the wheels that need drilling out. A 4 point lift would be ideal if you can access one.
I can't see the entire floor being dropped, chassis cleaned, sealed and replaced in 6 hours but maybe I just work slowly
Do you not have to take the front clam off the access the bolts holding the front panel on and then how easy is it to remove the bolts holding the seats in which also secure the rear panel.
Even with a ramp you have to move the car several times as there are rivets that are in line with the wheels that need drilling out. A 4 point lift would be ideal if you can access one.
I can't see the entire floor being dropped, chassis cleaned, sealed and replaced in 6 hours but maybe I just work slowly
david.mt said:
Do you not have to take the front clam off the access the bolts holding the front panel on and then how easy is it to remove the bolts holding the seats in which also secure the rear panel.
Removing the front clam only takes a few minutes - flip it up, undo the two light connectors, pull the clips out of the pivot pins, undo the two leashes. Flip it down, pull the two pivot pins, wait for the other guy in the shop to finish welding and walk over, lift off the clam and put it somewhere safe. Put the pivot pins and clips somewhere where they won't get lost (like back in the chassis holes where they belong). Done.Seat bolts are just as easy - how long does it take to remove 8 bolts (12, if you're going to remove the seats entirely)? Maybe a few minutes, if I'm not using power tools and it's before I've had my morning coffee? A little longer if the car isn't up on the lift - if my arms were an inch or two longer, it wouldn't matter, but since they aren't, I have to jack up and support the car properly to reach the inside bolts...
hoyin said:
So are you guys being charged £60 per hour?
Hoyin, just dug out my bill from Urban-racing, they charged me~Chassis treatment-Waxoil £160+vat
Chassis treatment-Zinc coat + repaint add foil £120+vat
Along with lots of other bits, but should give you an idea. I would guess this works out closer to £30-£40 pph
As I said previously, I did mine at Xmas as it was wet inside. I dont know why you would need to remove the front clam to reseal the cabin floor, perhaps there is something else going on.
If I were sending my car off to a garage I would have all the carpets out first. I replaced the main panel which is about 1300mm square and then I replaced the area under the footwells.
As far as I know they are the only 2 that need replaceing to reseal the cabin.
I have just enquired about carpets from a company in Stanmore and they cost about 20 quid for a length off a roll, all it takes is a can of tackifier and a couple of hours of your time....simples
If I were sending my car off to a garage I would have all the carpets out first. I replaced the main panel which is about 1300mm square and then I replaced the area under the footwells.
As far as I know they are the only 2 that need replaceing to reseal the cabin.
I have just enquired about carpets from a company in Stanmore and they cost about 20 quid for a length off a roll, all it takes is a can of tackifier and a couple of hours of your time....simples
The devil said:
As I said previously, I did mine at Xmas as it was wet inside. I dont know why you would need to remove the front clam to reseal the cabin floor, perhaps there is something else going on.
Good point - I am just removing all the floor panels to give it a good clean and to replace all the rivets with hex screws. You obviously don't need to remove the front and rear panels just to reseal the cabin. I can also confirm what Jim said - it is literally a 2 minute job to remove the front clam and all the seat bolts in the centre section came loose quite easily - I was concerned they would be siezed or cross threaded 
.wessexrfc said:
hoyin said:
So are you guys being charged £60 per hour?
Hoyin, just dug out my bill from Urban-racing, they charged me~Chassis treatment-Waxoil £160+vat
Chassis treatment-Zinc coat + repaint add foil £120+vat
Along with lots of other bits, but should give you an idea. I would guess this works out closer to £30-£40 pph
That is unfortunately a 3.5hr drive away from me.
hoyin said:
wessexrfc said:
hoyin said:
So are you guys being charged £60 per hour?
Hoyin, just dug out my bill from Urban-racing, they charged me~Chassis treatment-Waxoil £160+vat
Chassis treatment-Zinc coat + repaint add foil £120+vat
Along with lots of other bits, but should give you an idea. I would guess this works out closer to £30-£40 pph
That is unfortunately a 3.5hr drive away from me.
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