Discussion
Having spent the whole winter in the garage, I finally got the car out and it goes and let's me down, bugger!
It's happened twice. First the engine just died at 30mph whilst warming it up before a good run. And then today, I drove to work and everything was fine. But it wouldn't start when I went to go home.
RAC man came and reckons crank trigger. Does this sound feasible?
How difficult a job is this? How do I get it out?
It's happened twice. First the engine just died at 30mph whilst warming it up before a good run. And then today, I drove to work and everything was fine. But it wouldn't start when I went to go home.
RAC man came and reckons crank trigger. Does this sound feasible?
How difficult a job is this? How do I get it out?
I had something similar when I replaced my engine, gave the symptoms of crank sensor failure but was a bad connection in one of the Two Engine Harness relays. The front connector gets loose from pulling the relays in and out, a good clean and check the tension of the female side connector.
Noblescort said:
Thanks for the help. Will have a good look at the connectors.
This is the first car I've owned with this technology fitted. Most of mine have been company motors looked after by someone else, or they've been classic cars.
So, what are the normal symptoms of crank sensor failure?
This is the first car I've owned with this technology fitted. Most of mine have been company motors looked after by someone else, or they've been classic cars.
So, what are the normal symptoms of crank sensor failure?
No spark and no injector pulse
Noblescort said:
It's happened twice. First the engine just died at 30mph whilst warming it up before a good run. And then today, I drove to work and everything was fine. But it wouldn't start when I went to go home.
RAC man came and reckons crank trigger. Does this sound feasible?
How difficult a job is this? How do I get it out?
I ran into a problem like this - turned out to be a bad ground connection. I'd undo and clean up the motor ground (at the rear motor mount), and the ground connection where the negative battery lead attaches to the chassis. RAC man came and reckons crank trigger. Does this sound feasible?
How difficult a job is this? How do I get it out?
I'd also go through the common electrical corrosion areas in the engine compartment - the relay sockets, the maxi-fuse holder, and the fuse block.
It could possibly be the crank trigger, but the above areas are more likely. Changing the crank trigger is relatively easy. If you have long arms and can work by touch, you can reach down to change the crank sensor - it's the only sensor near the crank pulley. Otherwise, jack up the right rear corner of the car and support on jackstands. Remove the wheel, remove the plastic side cover in front of the rear wheel, remove the side panels. With the side panels off, you should be able to easily reach the crank sensor - undo the electrical connector, remove the bolt (10 mm wrench), and pull out the sensor. Grease the o-ring on the new sensor before installing.
It fixed it! - Yippee!!
Looking at the old one it looks likely that it was actually corrosion on the terminals rather than the trigger itself. Connector cleaned up, new one in place. May have been money wasted but I don't care, it's working now!!
Now, where's that trackday application form?
Thanks for your help guys.
By the way it was an 8mm "Spanner" that was required not a 10mm wrench ;-)
Looking at the old one it looks likely that it was actually corrosion on the terminals rather than the trigger itself. Connector cleaned up, new one in place. May have been money wasted but I don't care, it's working now!!
Now, where's that trackday application form?
Thanks for your help guys.
By the way it was an 8mm "Spanner" that was required not a 10mm wrench ;-)
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