A different Idle problem
Discussion
Having just got it back from getting the aircon fixed and looking forward to enjoying the sunshine, my car has started stalling itself when I come off the throttle. I've just got it back after it stranded me on a roundabout in Didcot for about 5mins getting it started looking, well, a bit of a Nob.
It seems slightly worse with the a/c on, but is still doing it after I gave up on that altogether to see if it helped. Doesn't do it with a cold engine (eng oil <70) so I'm thinking the idle stop is set low, but it had been hidden by the throttle cable being tight. Now the sun's out - plus the usual heat - the cable has expanded and it's just dropping far enough to cause problems. If I come off the throttle VERY gently it stays alive, but that can be a bit tricky coming up to junctions. Does that sound reasonable to people that know?
I always thought it idled a bit low (around 700) so first thought for a fix was going to be a couple of turns to the idle stop, but I neither own nor can think of any tool yet created that can get at it where it's installed. Anybody know any cunning tricks or does the whole throttle body have to come off? I tried a quick fix of shortening the throttle cable to keep it open (was giving 1100revs when cold) but I think the cable 'bounce' was still a factor, because it hasn't cured the problem.
In other news, on a trackday at Odiham my engine oil got to 110 degrees. Now in pretty regular driving and certainly stationary at idle (back when it would do that for me!) it seems to get up to 100 much more readily than previously (never saw it above 90 before and the fans managed that). This is my first Summer with the car, so it could just be higher ambient temps, but on a scale of 1-10 how concerned should I be?
Al
It seems slightly worse with the a/c on, but is still doing it after I gave up on that altogether to see if it helped. Doesn't do it with a cold engine (eng oil <70) so I'm thinking the idle stop is set low, but it had been hidden by the throttle cable being tight. Now the sun's out - plus the usual heat - the cable has expanded and it's just dropping far enough to cause problems. If I come off the throttle VERY gently it stays alive, but that can be a bit tricky coming up to junctions. Does that sound reasonable to people that know?
I always thought it idled a bit low (around 700) so first thought for a fix was going to be a couple of turns to the idle stop, but I neither own nor can think of any tool yet created that can get at it where it's installed. Anybody know any cunning tricks or does the whole throttle body have to come off? I tried a quick fix of shortening the throttle cable to keep it open (was giving 1100revs when cold) but I think the cable 'bounce' was still a factor, because it hasn't cured the problem.
In other news, on a trackday at Odiham my engine oil got to 110 degrees. Now in pretty regular driving and certainly stationary at idle (back when it would do that for me!) it seems to get up to 100 much more readily than previously (never saw it above 90 before and the fans managed that). This is my first Summer with the car, so it could just be higher ambient temps, but on a scale of 1-10 how concerned should I be?
Al
Had exactly the same problem with my car a couple of months back and it turned out to be a ECU problem. Ended up having to send the ECU back to MBE to fix. I was told they replaced 2 amplifiers and reflashed software, car is now running fine.
Noble motorsport in Chesterfield sorted it for me and they told me mine is the third car of a similar age that they have seen with the same problem, so looks like it may be common fault on cars built 03/04
I also tried increasing the tickover by adjusting the stop screw but as far as I am aware this will not work as the ECU adjusts to suit.
Noble motorsport in Chesterfield sorted it for me and they told me mine is the third car of a similar age that they have seen with the same problem, so looks like it may be common fault on cars built 03/04
I also tried increasing the tickover by adjusting the stop screw but as far as I am aware this will not work as the ECU adjusts to suit.
What engine do you have - a 2.5L or the 3.0L? For the 3.0L, reach across the engine from the right side of the car with an 8mm wrench ("spanner"), and you should be able to adjust the idle screw. I'd start by adjusting it to around 850-900 rpm with the engine at operating temperature. The tach on the dash isn't very accurate at the bottom of the range, so I'd suggest either hooking up a computer and using the diagnostic software, or hooking up a mechanic's tach to the engine.
The idle screw tends to move around, so if there isn't one already, add a lock nut to the screw.
I'd also check the engine to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.
The idle screw tends to move around, so if there isn't one already, add a lock nut to the screw.
I'd also check the engine to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.
Many thanks for the rapid responses, turns out Gadgeroonie was absolutely correct and I was just being a biff not being able to get a spanner to it. Adjusted up as per your advice - albeit only off the tacho and used the ECU throttle reset from the build manual. Just went out for 40mins without it getting bored and giving up on the way to a junction, so I'm a happy man again!
Again, cheers for the help. Pleased I didn't have to take you up on the offer of a visit Gadge, it's nothing personal though
Again, cheers for the help. Pleased I didn't have to take you up on the offer of a visit Gadge, it's nothing personal though
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