Clutch Problem?
Discussion
Experienced what I can only assume as a clutch problem yesterday on the drive back from Le Mans?
The car had had a spirited drive for a couple of hours whereupon it became very difficult to engage gears. However, after a rest of about an hour, the problem got better.
After resting for the three hour crossing, the car drove home, c.80 miles faultlessly.
On the way down to Le Mans, I did notice on a couple of occasions that the gears didn’t engage in their normal ‘notchy’ style and a faint high-pitched whine, similar to a dog tooth gearbox.
Only other symptom I noticed was on one occasion, after revving the engine, the clutch pedal depressed by about a ¼ inch all by itself.
A new clutch plate was fitted about a year ago when the gearbox was strengthened so question is, what is this likely to be?
1. Could this be caused by the hydraulic fluid getting hot?
2. If so, would bleeding and topping up help?
3. Is it more likely to be slave or master cylinder on the way out?
4. Something else?
Got back late last night and off to work early this morning so haven’t had chance to check levels etc but any comments/suggestions as to what to look for would, as always, be greatly appreciated.
The car had had a spirited drive for a couple of hours whereupon it became very difficult to engage gears. However, after a rest of about an hour, the problem got better.
After resting for the three hour crossing, the car drove home, c.80 miles faultlessly.
On the way down to Le Mans, I did notice on a couple of occasions that the gears didn’t engage in their normal ‘notchy’ style and a faint high-pitched whine, similar to a dog tooth gearbox.
Only other symptom I noticed was on one occasion, after revving the engine, the clutch pedal depressed by about a ¼ inch all by itself.
A new clutch plate was fitted about a year ago when the gearbox was strengthened so question is, what is this likely to be?
1. Could this be caused by the hydraulic fluid getting hot?
2. If so, would bleeding and topping up help?
3. Is it more likely to be slave or master cylinder on the way out?
4. Something else?
Got back late last night and off to work early this morning so haven’t had chance to check levels etc but any comments/suggestions as to what to look for would, as always, be greatly appreciated.
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
You should get her a Taxi then I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
I used Motul Rbf 600 but I would of used 660 if I'd have known about it. Opie oils do some good deals.
Takes no more than 10 mins to do with a jam jar and a little bit of pipe on the nipple.
Matty.
Thanks for the feedback chaps. I'll give it a go and see what happens.
Am I right in thinking that the process is to just keep topping up the reservoir with fresh while you pump out the old or is there a way to evacuate the old stuff and re-fill with new? Finally, is it OK to mix different types of fluid?
Am I right in thinking that the process is to just keep topping up the reservoir with fresh while you pump out the old or is there a way to evacuate the old stuff and re-fill with new? Finally, is it OK to mix different types of fluid?
hi does it become hard to engage gears under load ie above 2500 revs if so jack car up in air and try again if ok then problem i had was clutch plate seperated from spline area iff its a fluid issue try rapping with a heat insulator as pipe runs in area of rear turbo its acessable through the triangular hole in floor pan ?
Adrian W said:
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
If you mean change down with foot on clutch, it is more probably a noisy thrust bearing, you wont want to change that just because it's making a noise.I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
Sorry to the OP didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Lakelord said:
Thanks for the feedback chaps. I'll give it a go and see what happens.
Am I right in thinking that the process is to just keep topping up the reservoir with fresh while you pump out the old or is there a way to evacuate the old stuff and re-fill with new? Finally, is it OK to mix different types of fluid?
That's pretty much the process. I find it's a lot easier if you can draft two other people into helping you - one keeps the reservoir filled, one pumps, and the third opens and closes the bleed screw, and keeps the catch bottle from spilling everywhere. If I'm in the shop, I hook up my vacuum bleeder to the bleed nipple, open the nipple and start it sucking, run to the front of the car to keep the reservoir filled. Go back to the rear of the car, close the bleed nipple until it's slowly trickling out, fill up the reservoir, pump the clutch pedal once or twice, fill the reservoir, pump the pedal, then close the bleed screw, disconnect the vacuum bleeder, fill the reservoir and done. Be careful - the reservoir doesn't hold very much, so it's easy to bleed it dry. If you do, you have to start bleeding all over again to get rid of all the air bubbles.Am I right in thinking that the process is to just keep topping up the reservoir with fresh while you pump out the old or is there a way to evacuate the old stuff and re-fill with new? Finally, is it OK to mix different types of fluid?
I like to use two different colored fluids (like ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 - same fluid but different colors), and alternate from one bleed to the next. That way, I know that when the color changes, I've gotten out all of the old fluid...
Jim O. said:
That's pretty much the process. I find it's a lot easier if you can draft two other people into helping you - one keeps the reservoir filled, one pumps, and the third opens and closes the bleed screw, and keeps the catch bottle from spilling everywhere. If I'm in the shop, I hook up my vacuum bleeder to the bleed nipple, open the nipple and start it sucking, run to the front of the car to keep the reservoir filled. Go back to the rear of the car, close the bleed nipple until it's slowly trickling out, fill up the reservoir, pump the clutch pedal once or twice, fill the reservoir, pump the pedal, then close the bleed screw, disconnect the vacuum bleeder, fill the reservoir and done. Be careful - the reservoir doesn't hold very much, so it's easy to bleed it dry. If you do, you have to start bleeding all over again to get rid of all the air bubbles.
I like to use two different colored fluids (like ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 - same fluid but different colors), and alternate from one bleed to the next. That way, I know that when the color changes, I've gotten out all of the old fluid...
Thanks Jim. I like to use two different colored fluids (like ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 - same fluid but different colors), and alternate from one bleed to the next. That way, I know that when the color changes, I've gotten out all of the old fluid...
One last question.. Does anyone know how much fluid I need to replace the entire amount? Have 500ml but will that be enough?
hoyin said:
Adrian W said:
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
If you mean change down with foot on clutch, it is more probably a noisy thrust bearing, you wont want to change that just because it's making a noise.I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
Sorry to the OP didn't mean to hijack the thread.
wessexrfc said:
hoyin said:
Adrian W said:
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
If you mean change down with foot on clutch, it is more probably a noisy thrust bearing, you wont want to change that just because it's making a noise.
It happens when I lift my clutch and it is in engaging.
Sorry to the OP didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Mine does the exact same thing.
And mine, especially in 2nd with revs over about 3k
mrpbailey said:
wessexrfc said:
hoyin said:
Adrian W said:
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
If you mean change down with foot on clutch, it is more probably a noisy thrust bearing, you wont want to change that just because it's making a noise.I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
Sorry to the OP didn't mean to hijack the thread.
hoyin said:
mrpbailey said:
wessexrfc said:
hoyin said:
Adrian W said:
hoyin said:
What is the best fluid???
I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
If you mean change down with foot on clutch, it is more probably a noisy thrust bearing, you wont want to change that just because it's making a noise.I think I might need to do this as well. I get a whinning noise when I change down gear.
Sorry to the OP didn't mean to hijack the thread.
And mine, especially in 2nd with revs over about 3k
hi iff your encountering the problem above 2500 revs would put money on its clutch drag as had same problem had motor out to find fingers that hold the outer edge of clutch plate had sheerd 2 off hence causing drag under load was told by some one in the know who will remain un named not to put a uprated clutch in as due to torque will cause the problem to move next time to the gear box and its cheaper to do a clutch than a gear box witch is fair advise even though ive got a spare 6 speed box on garage floor as i thought it was a gear box fault at first iff i could suss out how to post pictures would post pics of clutch plate [ ps its hard to post info on computer after half bottle jack daniels thank god for spell check[
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