More Noble Niggles... Help please?
Discussion
Chapppers said:
Make sure your brake lights and indicators are working. If you start to have a lot of electrical gremlins appearing you may need to replace the fuse box.
Check that it's not getting wet in there.
Yep everything else is ok, didnt seem to be any dampness in there. That fuse 9 seems likely as it matches description of whats not working, Thats my hope anyways. Will check when i get home from work here.Check that it's not getting wet in there.
Well I have broke down quite a long way from home. Car just shut off and when I try to start it makes a flicking noise just... My fuse blew on me again when I was away. Looking at the diagram it looks like its also related to the altinator. Everytime I replaced the fuse it blew.. Not good.
Yup, if fuse #9 blows, the alternator won't charge. Some things to check with the key on/engine off. First, disconnect the leads running to the backup light switch on the transmission, and see if the fuse still blows. If that doesn't make a difference, disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator - if the fuse stops blowing, then it's a problem inside your alternator. Last time I had to troubleshoot a problem like this, it was an internal fault in the alternator - one of the rotor wires was shorting out, which blew the fuse. With a bad rotor, the alternator wasn't charging. Same thing happened on two different Nobles, with three different alternators.
If you disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator, and the fuse still blows, then most likely you have a wiring issue. Check all the wires coming out of the alternator for heat damage. When I troubleshot a similar problem with fuse #9 blowing, I start disconnecting things that went through the same fuse until the problem was isolated. If I remember correctly, the speedo sensor, the yellow interior light delay module, the lights on gonger, the brake fluid level sensor, e-brake light on the dash, backup lights, and the gauges all drew power through this fuse.
If you haven't already, get a copy of the US build manual. Electrical diagrams are in Chapter 8, and should give you enough info to find the problem...
If you disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator, and the fuse still blows, then most likely you have a wiring issue. Check all the wires coming out of the alternator for heat damage. When I troubleshot a similar problem with fuse #9 blowing, I start disconnecting things that went through the same fuse until the problem was isolated. If I remember correctly, the speedo sensor, the yellow interior light delay module, the lights on gonger, the brake fluid level sensor, e-brake light on the dash, backup lights, and the gauges all drew power through this fuse.
If you haven't already, get a copy of the US build manual. Electrical diagrams are in Chapter 8, and should give you enough info to find the problem...
Jim O. said:
Yup, if fuse #9 blows, the alternator won't charge. Some things to check with the key on/engine off. First, disconnect the leads running to the backup light switch on the transmission, and see if the fuse still blows. If that doesn't make a difference, disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator - if the fuse stops blowing, then it's a problem inside your alternator. Last time I had to troubleshoot a problem like this, it was an internal fault in the alternator - one of the rotor wires was shorting out, which blew the fuse. With a bad rotor, the alternator wasn't charging. Same thing happened on two different Nobles, with three different alternators.
If you disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator, and the fuse still blows, then most likely you have a wiring issue. Check all the wires coming out of the alternator for heat damage. When I troubleshot a similar problem with fuse #9 blowing, I start disconnecting things that went through the same fuse until the problem was isolated. If I remember correctly, the speedo sensor, the yellow interior light delay module, the lights on gonger, the brake fluid level sensor, e-brake light on the dash, backup lights, and the gauges all drew power through this fuse.
If you haven't already, get a copy of the US build manual. Electrical diagrams are in Chapter 8, and should give you enough info to find the problem...
Once again thanks for your detailed response! I ended up leaving it with a local garage there and getting the train home If you disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator, and the fuse still blows, then most likely you have a wiring issue. Check all the wires coming out of the alternator for heat damage. When I troubleshot a similar problem with fuse #9 blowing, I start disconnecting things that went through the same fuse until the problem was isolated. If I remember correctly, the speedo sensor, the yellow interior light delay module, the lights on gonger, the brake fluid level sensor, e-brake light on the dash, backup lights, and the gauges all drew power through this fuse.
If you haven't already, get a copy of the US build manual. Electrical diagrams are in Chapter 8, and should give you enough info to find the problem...
Alternator was indeed the issue. Its now out of the car and away to get repaired. Without it, the fuse is no longer blowing and the rev counter and guages etc all back up again. Just need to get the repaired alternator back in and test - then somehow manage to get my way back up to the car 
The devil said:
So Kim
As you know that much about alternators
My alternator light doesn't work
I have proved the lamp is good
It is a new alternator but I don't remember the lamp working since it was put in
Amy thoughts
If the bulb does work and your sure the alternator waorks, you have either lost the +12 volt feed or the earth is disconnected.As you know that much about alternators
My alternator light doesn't work
I have proved the lamp is good
It is a new alternator but I don't remember the lamp working since it was put in
Amy thoughts
Hi Guys,
The car has been in for a few days and the alternator taken away and tested etc...
There was a faulty resister.
Now its been put back on the car and still the battery light stays on and no charge levels coming.
I have been looking at the alternator wiring diagram from the US manual.
Can someone please confirm the setup for me into the alternator plug, as i think mine is wrong.
I have the current setup:
Plug hole 1 - Red
Plug hole 2 - Blue
Plug hole 3 - Black
From the diagram i think it should be:
Plug hole 1 - Blue
Plug hole 2 - Red
Plug hole 3 - Black
If this is the case the local machanic has wired it back together wrong after it broke down.
The car has been in for a few days and the alternator taken away and tested etc...
There was a faulty resister.
Now its been put back on the car and still the battery light stays on and no charge levels coming.
I have been looking at the alternator wiring diagram from the US manual.
Can someone please confirm the setup for me into the alternator plug, as i think mine is wrong.
I have the current setup:
Plug hole 1 - Red
Plug hole 2 - Blue
Plug hole 3 - Black
From the diagram i think it should be:
Plug hole 1 - Blue
Plug hole 2 - Red
Plug hole 3 - Black
If this is the case the local machanic has wired it back together wrong after it broke down.
requirement to vent some frustration!!!
Car has been in the garage now all week - alternator been in and out 3 times. Recent bench tests show no faults in the alternator and that it was sending out a charge, auto spark tested wiring in car and all working fine.
Battery light still on and no charge reaching the battery when the alternator is in the car.
Gonna have to take it to someone else. Very annoying when i been off work and was looking to enjoy the car, rather than run about after it!
Car has been in the garage now all week - alternator been in and out 3 times. Recent bench tests show no faults in the alternator and that it was sending out a charge, auto spark tested wiring in car and all working fine.
Battery light still on and no charge reaching the battery when the alternator is in the car.
Gonna have to take it to someone else. Very annoying when i been off work and was looking to enjoy the car, rather than run about after it!
Hmmmm....I assume that when they bench tested your alternator, they also tested the voltage regulator and the alternator diodes, right? If they did all of that, then I'd really suspect the wiring. Did they just meter/test light the wiring, or did they strip off the loom and inspect the wires? Does the light stay on when you disconnect the three-wire connector from the alternator? Did you get the wires on the three-wire connector sorted out?
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