rads out, how to do tunnel mod
Discussion
rads finally out after splitting, what a nightmare that was to get out. while it out i want to do the tunnel mod, how do you get the plate off. ive got 4 screws off but there is 2 more that seem to be behinf the brackets that hold steering rack on, do i need to undo these brackets also or is there a simpler way. i will be repalcing some of the hoses and also some aero mods curtesy of tuxman while its in pieces also repaint the chasis and reseal the front floor. is there anything else i should do.
a few pics of the massacre that i have caused
a few pics of the massacre that i have caused
Edited by jdearden on Saturday 4th September 11:16
looks about right mate ,i undid the brackets at the bulkhead end and turned them out the way , you need to open up your front scoops to allow more air in , i fitted 2 pipes from the front onto the alloy plate ,you will need to blank off the 2 inlets on the heater box .
Rad and plates are on the van ready to be delivered on monday !!!
Rad and plates are on the van ready to be delivered on monday !!!
used a connector so it matched but the end was all chewed up so it made sense to replace it .
Plates bolt and screw through chasis rails if you look underneath you can see the edge of the front floor plate they but up to them , have supplied all the fixings so you should be ok ,holding them up in place is the hardest bit , also sent new dome head stainless bolts for the splitter ,mine rubbed at the ends so i had to chage the outer 3 !!
Plates bolt and screw through chasis rails if you look underneath you can see the edge of the front floor plate they but up to them , have supplied all the fixings so you should be ok ,holding them up in place is the hardest bit , also sent new dome head stainless bolts for the splitter ,mine rubbed at the ends so i had to chage the outer 3 !!
I was able to slide a knife blade between the scoop and the plate - if you look closely at the edge, you can see where the two pieces are glued together. Easy to do, and if you want, you can always glue the plate back in place.
Looking at the first pics in this thread - I have to admit, supporting the car on stands at the very front of the clam/radiator support kind of worries me. That's where all the tubing is thinner. I usually use the bar where the front of the suspension arms are attached - much beefier. But, I guess the other position works, and the front isn't too heavy...
Looking at the first pics in this thread - I have to admit, supporting the car on stands at the very front of the clam/radiator support kind of worries me. That's where all the tubing is thinner. I usually use the bar where the front of the suspension arms are attached - much beefier. But, I guess the other position works, and the front isn't too heavy...
When the front is stripped down and you have stands under the jacking points at the back of the car, the car is virtually balanced over the rear stands, i had my car doing a seesaw on the back axle stands until i realised the jacking points were quite unsafe for balancing the cars weight when the front is stripped down, you can literally lift the front end using your finger, needless to say there is virtually no weight on the front stands when the back stands are under the recommended jacking points and i would always recommend moving the rear stands further back on the chassis, any point on the main chassis bars under the engine bay or behind the jacking point are adequate, but when you do this remember that you are transfering more load onto the front stands and in this case the ideal point for the stands is under the front jackin points or on the main chassis bar just infront of the cabin floor pan.
I think this is an important point for people to take into consideration, because when removing floor pans the stands need to be moved around and alternative support points are needed.
It is all too easy for the car to seesaw off the back stands and have a topple, i almost learned the hard way myself.
In Summary, rear recommended jacking points = not good.
I think this is an important point for people to take into consideration, because when removing floor pans the stands need to be moved around and alternative support points are needed.
It is all too easy for the car to seesaw off the back stands and have a topple, i almost learned the hard way myself.
In Summary, rear recommended jacking points = not good.
Jim O. said:
I was able to slide a knife blade between the scoop and the plate - if you look closely at the edge, you can see where the two pieces are glued together. Easy to do, and if you want, you can always glue the plate back in place.
Looking at the first pics in this thread - I have to admit, supporting the car on stands at the very front of the clam/radiator support kind of worries me. That's where all the tubing is thinner. I usually use the bar where the front of the suspension arms are attached - much beefier. But, I guess the other position works, and the front isn't too heavy...
I managed to get a blade in between the 2 parts too but wasn't careful enough to remove the inner section intact but it did come out relatively easy and with a bit of sanding and black paint looked fine.Looking at the first pics in this thread - I have to admit, supporting the car on stands at the very front of the clam/radiator support kind of worries me. That's where all the tubing is thinner. I usually use the bar where the front of the suspension arms are attached - much beefier. But, I guess the other position works, and the front isn't too heavy...
Also I am a bit of a perfectionist so insisted on removing the tunnel plate and fastening a couple of flanges for the cooling mod.
Not the easiest job to do but very satisfying once complete
bondy i havnt tiewrapped them down yet incase have to move them whilst fitting the rad back in. but they do move out the way of the wheels.
urb i prefere the one windscreen wiper now but was not by choice the other went flying over the top of the car on m25 one day. does a 28" not go over the windscreen on drivers side and rub on the pillar
urb i prefere the one windscreen wiper now but was not by choice the other went flying over the top of the car on m25 one day. does a 28" not go over the windscreen on drivers side and rub on the pillar
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