Discussion
i no this hads been bought up before but search is still down. my battery is dead. got a new one. any tips on fitting it. bloody annoying as just finished doing the rad and tunnel mod then go to start and nothing. I did however manage to jump it but the belt on side og engine was sqeeling and smoking. what causes this? it was fine 3 weeks ago when last had car out.
I put a post up for changing the battery a while ago.. some of the guys on here had a few nice tips i passed onto the mechanic.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Every changed battery?&mid=167356
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Every changed battery?&mid=167356
If the drive belt is squealing and smoking then I'd say one of the pulleys it goes round has jammed. I've had this once, but on one of my Esprits - there I was, tooling down the motorway, then I get a big squeal, lots of black smoke and a burning rubber smell. It turned out that the PAS pulley thing had jammed.
Now I think about it, the father-in-law had the same thing happen in his car, but his air-con pulley had seized, so it could be that ?
Now I think about it, the father-in-law had the same thing happen in his car, but his air-con pulley had seized, so it could be that ?
I've only worked on the US 3.0L Nobles, so this may or may not pertain to your 2.5L. Last time I had to change an alternator, the only place that I could drop it out of the car was through the space where the battery is located. However, this may have been due to the car being strapped down on our dyno at the time. Anyway, once I removed the battery, I had decent access to the alternator and the two alternator mounting bolts (I guess there's three on the 2.5L? Or, is there a rectangular aluminum block that's bolted to the engine block that holds the bottom alternator ear, like on the 3.0L? If so, you can leave the mounting block fastened to the engine block - just remove the bolt that comes in from the front of the engine into the mounting block.). I imagine that you could remove it with the underpanel in place (if your underpanel has a cutout for the battery), but I've never tried. I just go ahead and remove the underpanel - not too difficult if you have an electric screwdriver...
About the battery - after I remove the positive lead, I stick a little piece of rubber hose over the positive terminal (tape works, too), just so I don't do something stupid like short the battery with the hold down clamp, or short it out against the chassis when I'm dropping it out of the car. It's been a while since I worked on a M12 with stock intercooler piping, but it may be easier to reach the battery terminals and the hold down clamp if you remove the plastic piece in front of the rear wheel, instead of removing the i/c piping - I don't remember if the ECU gets in the way.
About the battery - after I remove the positive lead, I stick a little piece of rubber hose over the positive terminal (tape works, too), just so I don't do something stupid like short the battery with the hold down clamp, or short it out against the chassis when I'm dropping it out of the car. It's been a while since I worked on a M12 with stock intercooler piping, but it may be easier to reach the battery terminals and the hold down clamp if you remove the plastic piece in front of the rear wheel, instead of removing the i/c piping - I don't remember if the ECU gets in the way.
Edited by Jim O. on Tuesday 21st September 03:40
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