Dyno readings
Author
Discussion

S B C

Original Poster:

276 posts

218 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
I had my GTO3 on the Dyno at Power Engineering at Uxbridge a couple of weeks ago. I was there with about 12 others from a car club I belong to.

It's a 'Dyno Dynamics' dyno, which I see from other threads on here is thought to read lower than some other makes so perhaps gives a more accurate reading.

Readings were:

337.4 BHP at 6000 rpm ( This is flywheel hp so I assume that the 352 quoted by Noble is Flywheel HP too? )

This is 280 bhp rear wheel apparantly

349 ft/lbs Torque at 4500 rpm dropping off to 300 at 6000 rpm ( peak bhp)

Boost- max 0.6 bar at 4000 rpm, gradually dropping off to 0.52 bar 6000 rpm

I understand that boost should be 0.7 bar and that should be held right through the rev range. Could the slight drop in bhp be caused by the lower than standard boost?

If so, any suggestions how to fix it?

Incidently, the other cars with me mainly had Ford V8's and the highest any of them acheived was 308bhp. One guy was very dissapointed to get only 280, from an engine he had been told had 450 when he bought the car!

Chris


Edited by S B C on Monday 18th October 11:53

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
if your car is totally standard then thats about right for that dyno type..... you can unleash quite a bit with just a simple remap and fuel pump upgrade, modding is a slippery slope though lol.

TuxMan

9,011 posts

267 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
Hi Chris , sounds like its running ok last year we went to Area 52 for a rolling road day and most of the std cars made between 315 and 345 .

wessexrfc

4,326 posts

215 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
andygtt said:
if your car is totally standard then thats about right for that dyno type..... you can unleash quite a bit with just a simple remap and fuel pump upgrade, modding is a slippery slope though lol.
This fuel pump business, I was told that the standard pump, with wiring upgrade, should be good for 400bhp and that the noise that you get from the larger pump (sounds like a bee having a really bad day!) like mine, is due to it "hunting" (my words not his) as the pump is too big for what is needed. Mine is now sounding like a very angry bee who has had one of its wings pulled off!!!

F.C.

3,901 posts

237 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
S B C said:
I had my GTO3 on the Dyno at Power Engineering at Uxbridge a couple of weeks ago. I was there with about 12 others from a car club I belong to.

It's a 'Dyno Dynamics' dyno, which I see from other threads on here is thought to read lower than some other makes so perhaps gives a more accurate reading.

Readings were:

337.4 BHP at 6000 rpm ( This is flywheel hp so I assume that the 352 quoted by Noble is Flywheel HP too? )

This is 280 bhp rear wheel apparantly

349 ft/lbs Torque at 4500 rpm dropping off to 300 at 6000 rpm ( peak bhp)


Boost- max 0.6 bar at 4000 rpm, gradually dropping off to 0.52 bar 6000 rpm

I understand that boost should be 0.7 bar and that should be held right through the rev range. Could the slight drop in bhp be caused by the lower than standard boost?

If so, any suggestions how to fix it?

Incidently, the other cars with me mainly had Ford V8's and the highest any of them acheived was 308bhp. One guy was very dissapointed to get only 280, from an engine he had been told had 450 when he bought the car!

Chris


Edited by S B C on Monday 18th October 11:53
I went there a few years back, their dyno couldn't cope with more than 400 BHP.

S B C

Original Poster:

276 posts

218 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all


I went there a few years back, their dyno couldn't cope with more than 400 BHP.

[/quote]

F.C. I don't know how long ago you went there, but they moved accross the road a while ago and now have a new DD dyno.

Their old premises ( complete with their old dyno) is now occupied by a company who develop ECU's. They told me that the DD dyno reads about 15% less than their old one.
There is also another company with a dyno next door so it's often very noisy for the neighbours!

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
wessexrfc said:
andygtt said:
if your car is totally standard then thats about right for that dyno type..... you can unleash quite a bit with just a simple remap and fuel pump upgrade, modding is a slippery slope though lol.
This fuel pump business, I was told that the standard pump, with wiring upgrade, should be good for 400bhp and that the noise that you get from the larger pump (sounds like a bee having a really bad day!) like mine, is due to it "hunting" (my words not his) as the pump is too big for what is needed. Mine is now sounding like a very angry bee who has had one of its wings pulled off!!!
I believe the problem is the fuel rail and fitting a high volume pump makes the problem worse and thus after a while the pumps start to struggle in low load situations and sound like angry bees.... Im working on changing my rail to sort the issue on mine but then i'm going for a pump with twice the capacity of the 044's so have no choice really.

you will be running your std pump flat out at 400bhp but i wasnt suggesting that much power and was meaning he'd need to change the wiring to the pump.... this and a simple remap can unleash lots of power over std.

Gadgeroonie

5,362 posts

265 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
F.C. said:
S B C said:
I had my GTO3 on the Dyno at Power Engineering at Uxbridge a couple of weeks ago. I was there with about 12 others from a car club I belong to.

It's a 'Dyno Dynamics' dyno, which I see from other threads on here is thought to read lower than some other makes so perhaps gives a more accurate reading.

Readings were:

337.4 BHP at 6000 rpm ( This is flywheel hp so I assume that the 352 quoted by Noble is Flywheel HP too? )

This is 280 bhp rear wheel apparantly

349 ft/lbs Torque at 4500 rpm dropping off to 300 at 6000 rpm ( peak bhp)


Boost- max 0.6 bar at 4000 rpm, gradually dropping off to 0.52 bar 6000 rpm

I understand that boost should be 0.7 bar and that should be held right through the rev range. Could the slight drop in bhp be caused by the lower than standard boost?

If so, any suggestions how to fix it?

Incidently, the other cars with me mainly had Ford V8's and the highest any of them acheived was 308bhp. One guy was very dissapointed to get only 280, from an engine he had been told had 450 when he bought the car!

Chris


Edited by S B C on Monday 18th October 11:53
I went there a few years back, their dyno couldn't cope with more than 400 BHP.
that was thier old Dyno - they got a brand new Dyno Dynamics last year





340 bhp is about what a stock 3.0 makes

S B C

Original Poster:

276 posts

218 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for the comments.
My car IS standard as far as I know so it seems 337bhp isn't bad for 32,000 mile engine.

I'll certainly be exploring the fuel pump wiring upgrade and a remap to get as much as I can out of it whilst remaining as standard as possible.

No-one has commented on the boost being a bit down. Is that something that would be sorted by a remap, or is it likely to be more mechanical, e.g. weak turbo's or actuators?

Chris

Edited by S B C on Tuesday 19th October 11:35

Mike Tuckwood

1,261 posts

228 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Chris.

looking at those boost figures, it's quite possible that you have an actuator problem.
I'd suggest getting the tested to see if they're opening at the correct pressure. My guess would be that one of them isn't working at all?


Mike.

S B C

Original Poster:

276 posts

218 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Thanks Mike
Do they have to come off the car to be tested or is it something done by plugging something in on the car to measure how well they are working?
Can it be done by any turbo specialist or does it have to be one that can plug into the Noble ECU?

Blu3R

2,380 posts

228 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Sounds about right, I had a dud rear actuator and I was holding about 0.5/0.6 ish which dropped off at the top.
Have now bought 0.5Bar replacements but need to find time to get out there and fit them rolleyes

Mike Tuckwood

1,261 posts

228 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
S B C said:
Thanks Mike
Do they have to come off the car to be tested or is it something done by plugging something in on the car to measure how well they are working?
Can it be done by any turbo specialist or does it have to be one that can plug into the Noble ECU?
NP. Any garage who has a mityvac (or similar) vacuum/pressure tester should be able to do it.
The actuators are Tee'd together, but you just clamp each one off in turn and watch for actuator rod movement. I think the crack open pressure is circa .3 to .4 Bar.


Mike.

joust

14,622 posts

288 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
wessexrfc said:
Mine is now sounding like a very angry bee who has had one of its wings pulled off!!!
I'd love to know what the fix is for that. It's soooo annoying!

J

Adrian W

15,450 posts

257 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
joust said:
wessexrfc said:
Mine is now sounding like a very angry bee who has had one of its wings pulled off!!!
I'd love to know what the fix is for that. It's soooo annoying!

J
Open up the return to the tank. it's to restrictive

Rob_W

1,070 posts

243 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Adrian W said:
joust said:
wessexrfc said:
Mine is now sounding like a very angry bee who has had one of its wings pulled off!!!
I'd love to know what the fix is for that. It's soooo annoying!

J
Open up the return to the tank. it's to restrictive
How do you do it, replace the return pipe?

Gadgeroonie

5,362 posts

265 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
blank off the return pipe to the tank and return it to the filler neck pipe

(hydraulic fittings do the job nicely)

or take the tank out and drill the return a bigger size

daddysumo

2,545 posts

242 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Gadgeroonie said:
blank off the return pipe to the tank and return it to the filler neck pipe

(hydraulic fittings do the job nicely)

or take the tank out and drill the return a bigger size


Drill out and replace with a -6 fitting to match the outlet size of the fuel regulator

Rob_W

1,070 posts

243 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
daddysumo said:
Gadgeroonie said:
blank off the return pipe to the tank and return it to the filler neck pipe

(hydraulic fittings do the job nicely)

or take the tank out and drill the return a bigger size
Drill out and replace with a -6 fitting to match the outlet size of the fuel regulator
Thanks chaps and there was I thinking that being a Noble there would be a simple solution frown

andygtt

8,345 posts

293 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
My pump still contained the angry bee's after modding the tank frown ... its definatelly worth doing though as some peoples tanks were welded badly and almost had no return at all.