Front Brakes Seized
Front Brakes Seized
Author
Discussion

jay964rs

Original Poster:

257 posts

224 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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Hi all,
Went to get the car out for a drive & the front brakes have seized on.
Have tried the rock the car, drive it out the garage (tyres just drag) & sprayed brake cleaner on & tried using a soft hammer on the calipers. Nothing doing.
Any ideas before I call the RAC?
Its a GTO 2.5 2002:
What tool do I need to take off the small centre cap
What size wheel nut socket do I need
where do I jack up the front of the car.

sorry, not mechanicaly minded.
thanks

jamie g

516 posts

245 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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A bit more of an aggressive clutch technique may help heresmile backward and forwards. Maybe try a hammer on the disc, metal on metal. You don't need to hit it hard, just let the vibrations do the work.

The Snail

195 posts

209 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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Ours does this if we put it away wet after washing it. As mentioned just keep driving it back and forth until it breaks free.

R0162

2,435 posts

193 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
quotequote all
ye they should un seize with a bit of persuading, its only the friction form the pads and the disc, but these cars also have brake shoes at the rear, the rear disc has a brake drum built into it, check it is not these that have seized.

Middle cosmetic nut usually can be spun off by hand, but the early Nobles came with a special plastic spanner to turn them, the wheel nuts are 19mm, the jacking point is visible when you look under the car, it will be rounded and sticking slightly below the line of the floor pan local to the sill but you pretty much jack up the car where any main chassis members cross and the rear jacking point will raise front and rear at the same time(to save time), just be carefull not to jack up on the floor plate or cill plate, they will buckle very easily.

Taking off the wheel and wiggling or tapping the disc should free them up, but at the rear i would take off the disc(handbrake off) and give the drum and clean out and check the brake shoes, also check your brake fluid level as good practice. Don't be outfaced by the job, it will literally take 20 minutes. Do not over tighten your wheel nuts, after you get it running take it to your local mechanic to get the nuts tightened properly with a torque wrench, you may be suprised by how little wheel nuts need tightening due to the tapered design.

SimonJW

779 posts

266 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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Try a squeezy bottle with a fairy liquid/water mix and just keep spraying that on the pad area of the disc then try reversing (quite violently as stated)five minutes after applying. Keep repeating until free. This is a pretty standard occurence if you put it away wet, so don't panic! Best advice so that it doesn't happen next time is to make sure you take it for a spin after washing or rock backwards and forwards in the garage before putting to sleep, especially if it's been raining.

Hope this helps and works as it usually doeas the trick for me.

Edited by SimonJW on Thursday 20th January 12:13


Edited by SimonJW on Thursday 20th January 12:52

jay964rs

Original Poster:

257 posts

224 months

Thursday 20th January 2011
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Thanks everyone, now free, and went out for a drive, f##king fantastic machine!!

hoyin

1,233 posts

266 months

Friday 21st January 2011
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This is why when I park it I never pull the handbrake. I just put it in reverse.

Chapppers

4,483 posts

220 months

Wednesday 26th January 2011
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hoyin said:
This is why when I park it I never pull the handbrake. I just put it in reverse.
Yeah handbrakes are renowned for seizing the front brakes

daddysumo

2,545 posts

242 months

Wednesday 26th January 2011
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Chapppers said:
hoyin said:
This is why when I park it I never pull the handbrake. I just put it in reverse.


Yeah handbrakes are renowned for seizing the front brakes


Hand brake has nothing to do with the rear pads rusting to the discs either