Starting Help Needed Please
Discussion
OK, been out to the car this morning and it's not turning over.
Can hear fuel pump priming, lights work OK etc and the man from the RAC has checked the battery which is all good.
Checked both rear and front main fuses and the start relay which is working ok as well.
Put a 12V feed on the starter and it fired up first time.
Any ideas chaps?
Can hear fuel pump priming, lights work OK etc and the man from the RAC has checked the battery which is all good.
Checked both rear and front main fuses and the start relay which is working ok as well.
Put a 12V feed on the starter and it fired up first time.
Any ideas chaps?
Ah OK thanks. Yes I got to them. All the fuses are good as is the main fuse in the front footwell.
Looking like either wiring to/from the ignition switch now or maybe the ignition switch itself.
At least I can hot wire it to get it started so no major problems.
Thanks again for replying
Looking like either wiring to/from the ignition switch now or maybe the ignition switch itself.
At least I can hot wire it to get it started so no major problems.
Thanks again for replying
Joust, thanks for your help. I do have access to nobleparts and have been working through this diagram today.
I came to the conclusion that the immobilser must be OK as it starts when I short the starter to the solenoid or is that the wrong conclusion?
Have given up for the day and I suspect I'll drive it over to Skip for him to waive his spanners at it.
I came to the conclusion that the immobilser must be OK as it starts when I short the starter to the solenoid or is that the wrong conclusion?
Have given up for the day and I suspect I'll drive it over to Skip for him to waive his spanners at it.
That diagram seems to be of the very early M12s (2.5's I assume) which don't have a protection solenoid.
[Probably best not to post pictures of wiring diagrams with the immobiliser on it though...]
If you look further through you'll see the one I posted. The immobiliser just breaks the feed to the starter relay, and has separate circuits for the fuel pump etc. Ergo, if just C2 of the immobiliser has gone it would do what you report. If it is that, it would be why putting 12V direct onto it will work as you are the other side of the relay.
If you aren't a car sparky you could be chasing your tail for ages, but a simple check for the immobiliser is to trace through the 12V feed to the break point on the immobiliser circuit (look in the immobiliser wiring diagram for the correct circuit to check), and check that 12V is getting to the immobiliser, and when you disarm it, 12V appears on the other side.
If that's OK then you'll just have to trace through from the 40A main fuse all the way back.
J
[Probably best not to post pictures of wiring diagrams with the immobiliser on it though...]
If you look further through you'll see the one I posted. The immobiliser just breaks the feed to the starter relay, and has separate circuits for the fuel pump etc. Ergo, if just C2 of the immobiliser has gone it would do what you report. If it is that, it would be why putting 12V direct onto it will work as you are the other side of the relay.
If you aren't a car sparky you could be chasing your tail for ages, but a simple check for the immobiliser is to trace through the 12V feed to the break point on the immobiliser circuit (look in the immobiliser wiring diagram for the correct circuit to check), and check that 12V is getting to the immobiliser, and when you disarm it, 12V appears on the other side.
If that's OK then you'll just have to trace through from the 40A main fuse all the way back.
J
That diagram seems to be of the very early M12s (2.5's I assume) which don't have a protection solenoid. You need to use the main diagrams plus that addendum as far as I can see.
[Probably best not to post pictures of wiring diagrams with the immobiliser on it though...]
If you look further through you'll see the one I posted. The immobiliser just breaks the feed to the starter relay, which would by why putting 12V direct onto it will work as you are the other side of the relay.
If you aren't a car sparky you could be chasing your tail for ages, but a simple check for the immobiliser is to trace through the 12V feed to the break point on the immobiliser circuit (look in the immobiliser wiring diagram for the correct circuit to check), and check that 12V is getting to the immobiliser, and when you disarm it, 12V appears on the other side.
If that's OK then you'll just have to trace through from the 40A main fuse all the way back.
J
[Probably best not to post pictures of wiring diagrams with the immobiliser on it though...]
If you look further through you'll see the one I posted. The immobiliser just breaks the feed to the starter relay, which would by why putting 12V direct onto it will work as you are the other side of the relay.
If you aren't a car sparky you could be chasing your tail for ages, but a simple check for the immobiliser is to trace through the 12V feed to the break point on the immobiliser circuit (look in the immobiliser wiring diagram for the correct circuit to check), and check that 12V is getting to the immobiliser, and when you disarm it, 12V appears on the other side.
If that's OK then you'll just have to trace through from the 40A main fuse all the way back.
J
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