Toyota FJ Cruiser - thoughts

[Nobody13]

I fancy a change of car, currently have a Nissan Juke (2020) as my daily, although I don't do a lot of milage, about 5000 per year. I have an Elise s1 111s as my weekend toy.

I appreciate that the Toyota FJ Cruiser is a bit marmite, but would be interested on feedback on ownership from anyone who has owned or driven one.

I would be looking at this model/age of vehicle

https://mag.toyota.co.uk/fj-cruiser-facts/

Something like this:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202606032...

Thank you.

[Smint]

They're basically a 120/150 series Prado sized Landcruiser 4 litre V6 with a different body.

Note the 4WD is switchable, as Hilux RWD for normal driving which helps a little with economy (not on those tyres mind ), Prado/Landcruisers are almost all full time 4WD from around '98, i had a 70 series Landcruiser back in the 90s with selectable 4WD, it was somewhat twitchy in the wet in RWD only and suspect the vehicle here will be on those huge MTs, you can only run switchable 4WD on loose/ or slippery ground or transmission will wind up.

Have you considered grey importing, or getting someone to do so for you, that had been my plan some 12 years ago before the exclllent 120 series i've just sold cropped up.
Rust is the issue in Britain with all ladder chassised 4x4s. Toyotas suffer as badly as any on salty roads.

There's a ridiculously low mileage example here, ref YGD03155, have a look at the underbody pics, its still brand new.
https://carused.jp/car-list/detail/toyota/land-cru...

Edited by Smint on Sunday 5th July 06:52

[Nobody13]

Smint said:

They're basically a 120/150 series Prado sized Landcruiser 4 litre V6 with a different body.

Note the 4WD is switchable, as Hilux RWD for normal driving which helps a little with economy (not on those tyres mind ), Prado/Landcruisers are almost all full time 4WD from around '98, i had a 70 series Landcruiser back in the 90s with selectable 4WD, it was somewhat twitchy in the wet in RWD only and suspect the vehicle here will be on those huge MTs, you can only run switchable 4WD on loose/ or slippery ground or transmission will wind up.

Have you considered grey importing, or getting someone to do so for you, that had been my plan some 12 years ago before the exclllent 120 series i've just sold cropped up.
Rust is the issue in Britain with all ladder chassised 4x4s. Toyotas suffer as badly as any on salty roads.

There's a ridiculously low mileage example here, ref YGD03155, have a look at the underbody pics, its still brand new.
https://carused.jp/car-list/detail/toyota/land-cru...

Edited by Smint on Sunday 5th July 06:52

Thanks for the reply. I don't like the style of the one you linked.

I am aware that the FJ cruiser is import only.

Obviously I need to try one before I decide if to purchase or not.

[cirian75]

What is the best way to rust protect these Japanese imports for us in UK winters ?

[_Rodders_]

Not Lanoguard.

Throughly clean and treat any existing rust and then use a decent product like Bilt Hamber Dynax. Treat all the cavities and all the exposed surfaces.

Repeat every 3 years.

Or don't drive for 6 to 8 months of the year depending on which part of the country you live in.

[Nobody13]

_Rodders_ said:

Not Lanoguard.

Throughly clean and treat any existing rust and then use a decent product like Bilt Hamber Dynax. Treat all the cavities and all the exposed surfaces.

Repeat every 3 years.

Or don't drive for 6 to 8 months of the year depending on which part of the country you live in.

I spoke to an importer and they can be rustproofed when you purchase.

[Smint]

Nobody13 said:

_Rodders_ said:

Not Lanoguard.

Throughly clean and treat any existing rust and then use a decent product like Bilt Hamber Dynax. Treat all the cavities and all the exposed surfaces.

Repeat every 3 years.

Or don't drive for 6 to 8 months of the year depending on which part of the country you live in.

I spoke to an importer and they can be rustproofed when you purchase.

You need to know what the process is and what the condition of the vehicle is before it starts, plus the vehicle even if it hasn't seen a UK salt fetish winter its been sitting possibly on the top deck of a boat and may have seen heavy sea swells and repeated salt water dosings on the crossing, the first thing is a serious wash down all over and under before any work starts, including cleaning out inside the chassis voids with something like a drain jetter, a lot of crud can build up inside the chassis.
I've seen chassis as rusty as hell given a thick coat of glossy underseal after which they look glorious you'd never know what was hidden and its done more harm than good because once the 'seal' starts to fail water/salt gets in spreads and does its worse undected.

Ideally you want to inspect the vehicle before rustproofing happens, as said above any existing rust removed as much as possible then treated before whatever method and material you choose is applied.
Then there's body cavity proofing and proofing inside the chassis.

Ideally DIY if you have the time is the way to go here and don't mind getting seriously filthy, i always proofed my own and reckoned on 2 to 4 days for the initial cleaning treatment and proofing, that probably won't be happening at the importer it'll be a lovely looking coat of underseal camo.

You can find shops who will do this work for you but its going to cost, 4 figures for the full monty, i reckon on at least £200 worth of materials first time DIY to do a proper job.

Prep and annual top ups of your chosen method pays, recently sold my 21 year old Prado sized Landcruiser to a qualified truck mechanic colleague, solid as a rock still as well as overmaintained, he'd been after mine for years just before deciding to sell mine he'd inspected a 2013 model that had already seen extensive welding.

[largelunchbox]

Nobody13 said:

I fancy a change of car, currently have a Nissan Juke (2020) as my daily, although I don't do a lot of milage, about 5000 per year. I have an Elise s1 111s as my weekend toy.

I appreciate that the Toyota FJ Cruiser is a bit marmite, but would be interested on feedback on ownership from anyone who has owned or driven one.

I would be looking at this model/age of vehicle

https://mag.toyota.co.uk/fj-cruiser-facts/

Something like this:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202606032...

Thank you.

I’m buying the one you have linked

[Nobody13]

largelunchbox said:

I m buying the one you have linked

Was that before or after I linked it?

Let me know how you get on, I have spoken to Andrew at that company.

Any insurance issues?

[largelunchbox]

Nobody13 said:

Was that before or after I linked it?

Let me know how you get on, I have spoken to Andrew at that company.

Any insurance issues?

After, went and had a test drive 1st August, plenty of insurance issues as I’ve 9 points and live in west London but I have a quote that’s not too bad.

[Nobody13]

largelunchbox said:

After, went and had a test drive 1st August, plenty of insurance issues as I ve 9 points and live in west London but I have a quote that s not too bad.

Would be interested in your thoughts on the car.

[largelunchbox]

Nobody13 said:

Would be interested in your thoughts on the car.

Not collecting till September so you’re have to wait.

[tonyg58]

Much to my surprise (I'm not an SUV person ), I really like that, very different, quirky and suicide doors too.

Enjoy the car.

[durbster]

I'm very tempted to get one of these next. I have a soft spot for Land Cruisers but they're generally too big for British roads. The FJ seems like the sweet spot. Also, they look extremely cool.

The only thing I'm hesitant on is how they'd be on a long drive. I sometimes drive into Europe or up to Scotland and I feel like it might be a bit of a slog in one of these, so I'd be interested to hear some feedback on that.

[_Rodders_]

Nobody13 said:

_Rodders_ said:

Not Lanoguard.

Throughly clean and treat any existing rust and then use a decent product like Bilt Hamber Dynax. Treat all the cavities and all the exposed surfaces.

Repeat every 3 years.

Or don't drive for 6 to 8 months of the year depending on which part of the country you live in.

I spoke to an importer and they can be rustproofed when you purchase.

Would you trust someone who has no vested interest in it though?

Even if they did nothing it's going to get through a few years without any visible rust.

I'd rather do it myself even if it didn't save me any money.

[Smint]

durbster said:

I'm very tempted to get one of these next. I have a soft spot for Land Cruisers but they're generally too big for British roads. The FJ seems like the sweet spot. Also, they look extremely cool.

The only thing I'm hesitant on is how they'd be on a long drive. I sometimes drive into Europe or up to Scotland and I feel like it might be a bit of a slog in one of these, so I'd be interested to hear some feedback on that.

They're basically a 120 series Prado sized Landcruiser chassis and running gear under a different body, the FJ generally has selectable 4WD where everything after 70 series is full time 4WD, so size wise there's very little in it, people might be surprised how comparatively narrow and maneuverable the Prado based vehicles are, about the same footprint as a Mondeo..

Long distance (read all) driving unless you've got the mud tyres or someone's fitted aftermarket often stiffer/raised suspension, the ride quality is smooth and uncannily quiet.
The soundproofing in Prados is way better than most cars hoepfully FJ the same, 70mph typically is around the 2000rpm mark which is a very sweet spot you struggle to hear the engine, seats are comfortable large sturdy armrests fantastic visibility with mirrors worthy of the name, cruise control is as simple as all Toyotas of the previous era, that also applies to Hiluxes from 2006 onwards so long as you have a hardtop and a little weight in the back they also drive and ride surprisingly well, all Toyota auto gearboxes are bombproof and a joy to drive.
On most roads our now sold 21 year old LC5 was quieter and smoother riding than our new Prius, backed up by my colleague who when out with family and friends they can't believe how refined the vehicle is, goes without saying these vehicles laugh at pot holes and speed humps.

I doubt the vehicle linked in the thread will be quiet or that smooth on the roads because of its modifications, but that's entirely right its not meant to be the standard vehicle.

The downside is only really fuel consumption, our 3 litre 1KD 4 pot Diesels averaged 25 mpg general running about involving small town work on my daily commutes, the Hilux being lighter and RWD in normal driving was a little better, if you get over 30mpg even on a run you're doing well.
My 95 series had the 3.4 V6 petrol, a stonking engine that could show a clean pair of heels to many a car, but it averaged 18 mpg and struggled to better 22mpg, i haven't owned a 4.0 litre V6 but would expect slightly better figures unless you are very careful.
My first 3.0 litre Diesel was a 70 series manual, that struggled to better 22 mpg and i saw 16 from it now and again.

Rodders.
I agree completely about doing your own rustproofing, don't let an importer blast a load of black stuff over the undersides you want to see what needs doing and do so properly, ie first thing is to wash out the chassis voids thoroughly as well as the full wash down underneath.
If the vehicle is relatively rust free i reckon on about £200 worth of Bilt Hambers various products to proof a sizeable 4x4, if you have a compressor and gun you could cut that cost by about a third by buying the 5 litre tins of UB/UC.
BH's cavity probes are world class for getting insde every single void in the vehicle.

I shall hopefully be rustproofing our new Prius this week myself, BH's stuff arrived Friday.
Note, MG Rover Spares Southampton offer good prices on BH stuff.

Edited by Smint on Monday 17th August 10:52