BEC experiences....
BEC experiences....
Author
Discussion

vexed

Original Poster:

394 posts

194 months

Monday 20th June 2011
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Hello all
I'm looking for an exciting car for weekend fun and the odd trackday.
I've come to the decision that the car that will prove the most thrilling would be a bike engined kit car. I'm looking at a couple of R1 engined cars.
I want to go into ownership with my eyes wide open as to what to expect.

I haven't got the tools or mechanical expertise to much work at all on a car so would be paying someone else to do it. I was wondering how much things like an engine rebuild would cost. What about new clutch/gearbox if that was required?

Thanks in advance for your replies

George

Mr Sparkle

1,935 posts

193 months

Tuesday 21st June 2011
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You might surprise yourself as to what you can achieve mechanically by using google or advice from somewhere like here. Kit cars are prone to niggling little problems (depending on model)that are not really practical for most people to send to outside help but they are often quite easy to work on. For example 2 years ago I could do an oil change/basic service but since getting the kit car have steadily built up confidence and done a partial rebuild etc., I think the only thing that stops most people is the confidence to actually give it a go.

The clutch set for my fathers ZX12R BEC was around £500 and quite easy to fit, just needed to get a larger than usual socket and suitable torque wrench, Gear boxes not sure about - you would probably be getting them from ebay so have a look and see what is about. For rebuilds if necessary give someone like 'extreme engines' or 'Yorkshire engines' a call and see if they will give you a ball park figure.

robcollingridge

633 posts

306 months

Tuesday 21st June 2011
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I run a Fisher Fury R1 for mainly road use, odd track days, etc. The R1 is pretty reliable but I'm of the view that the engines are so cheap they can just be replaced. I've had 5 years of hard driving out of mine with only one real bill (last month to fix a chassis problem).

I had very little knowledge of cars and none on bike engines when I built it. Used friends and people on the Internet to advise. There are some excellent forums and clubs. I fitted an uprated clutch, sump baffle (twice), etc.

So long as you keep the R1 engine filled with the right right amount of oil it seems pretty much bullet proof. I change the oil, filter and every year and the plugs every other year. Clutch still seems fine.

Biggest cost is tyres. A set of four lasts 1800-2500 miles typically.

jeffw

845 posts

251 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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What tyres are you running Rob? I get R888s to last a lot longer than that.

vexed

Original Poster:

394 posts

194 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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Well that is reassuring, I will continue looking out for one.
And I suppose with tyres lasting 2000 miles, you are driving it as it should be, too!

_Leg_

2,827 posts

234 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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Red my threads in this forum recently mate. I still love my Mk, great car, superb fun on track, but it isnt always plain sailing.

van cleef

202 posts

191 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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I have had my blade engined car since Febuary and already i have had to change the engine because of the prop adapter letting go off the engine at 70 mph.It's almost been a blessing in disguise because with some previous mechanical experience but near to zero of bike engine's i am now able to do most thing's now including the clutch which i have just done at the weekend.
I was able even to lift the engine into the bay by hand by myself but needed a hand to get it out without a hoist.

If your not keen on the mechanical side of thing's then i would'nt bother because in my experience there is alway's something needing adjusting or tinkered with

robcollingridge

633 posts

306 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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I'm using Yokohama A048's in medium compound.

A propshaft adaptor should not be able to 'let go'. If machined correctly, it should have a lock nut and metal lock plate that stops it working loose. I had to return the one for my R1 initially, to make sure I could fit the locking tab. Even if you torque them up correctly, they can still come undone without the locking tabs.

Some detail and pics here: http://www.robcollingridge.com/kitcar/build/2006/0...

van cleef

202 posts

191 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
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My adapter is different to your's with mine being a 919 blade, the bolt which held my adapter on came lose but without seeing it prior to it coming off is was unaware of any tab stoping the bolt from loosening.I ended torqueing mine up with locktite.

vexed

Original Poster:

394 posts

194 months

Thursday 23rd June 2011
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Well I read the top couple of posts and have bought one, hope it will prove trusty!
It is a fisher fury fireblade. Soon to be seen gingerly negotiating round a track day near you.

_Leg_

2,827 posts

234 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
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vexed said:
Well I read the top couple of posts and have bought one, hope it will prove trusty!
It is a fisher fury fireblade. Soon to be seen gingerly negotiating round a track day near you.
Enjoy. Hopefully see you at a track day soon (when I get a new engine fitted - August!).