Discussion
It's inevitable I'm afraid. It disgusts me how bad the coatings used on kit cars are - it's my own personal soapbox that one.
For not much extra cost they could solve it easily. Hell you could even offer it as an option - chassis will last a long time: option 1, or you'll be doing a strip and rebuild in 5-7 years after just 7-12 thousand miles: option 2 - 400 quid off the retail price.
My old westy was bloody awful - chassis rails, wishbones, roll bar flange where the allen bolts go through.
Given it's the roll bar, I'd take it off, get it chemically stripped and take it to somewhere that will do a proper job. Give Chris a ring at z-cars as they use a company that, whilst not cheap, do a superb job. It something like a 5 or 6 stage process and leaves a very very durable outer coat and is available in some lovely colours too.
For not much extra cost they could solve it easily. Hell you could even offer it as an option - chassis will last a long time: option 1, or you'll be doing a strip and rebuild in 5-7 years after just 7-12 thousand miles: option 2 - 400 quid off the retail price.
My old westy was bloody awful - chassis rails, wishbones, roll bar flange where the allen bolts go through.
Given it's the roll bar, I'd take it off, get it chemically stripped and take it to somewhere that will do a proper job. Give Chris a ring at z-cars as they use a company that, whilst not cheap, do a superb job. It something like a 5 or 6 stage process and leaves a very very durable outer coat and is available in some lovely colours too.
Duh....I was thinking anti-roll bar for some random reason...sorry. POR15 not good in UV.
I'm not a huge fan of PC on steel a lot of the time. Had the front uprights and rear brake backplates on the Westy done when i bult it, and over 20 years later, they still look fantastic. COnversely, I had the wishbones on my Strat copy PCed and before it ever even go t close ot being finisehd they had started to develop crows-feet. I stripped the PC and psrayedn them with an etch primer followed by chassis black. Still looked fine after 5 years of use.
...and as for the Marcos chassis I had blasted and PCed...that lasted about 6 months before developing rusty pinpoints all over it.
Quite like it on ali panels though - sticks like very sticky stuff on the whole.
I'm not a huge fan of PC on steel a lot of the time. Had the front uprights and rear brake backplates on the Westy done when i bult it, and over 20 years later, they still look fantastic. COnversely, I had the wishbones on my Strat copy PCed and before it ever even go t close ot being finisehd they had started to develop crows-feet. I stripped the PC and psrayedn them with an etch primer followed by chassis black. Still looked fine after 5 years of use.
...and as for the Marcos chassis I had blasted and PCed...that lasted about 6 months before developing rusty pinpoints all over it.
Quite like it on ali panels though - sticks like very sticky stuff on the whole.
you can still use por 15 but it needs a topcoat if it has prolonged exposure to uv rays. good stuff but buy small tins if your going to use it as its a nightmare to seal and re use. I used silver on my anti roll bar and it looked identical to the powder coating, i cocked up the application first time and had to use the angle grinder to smooth it out! its tough stuff
I have only ever seen 2 chassis done in Por15. Both looked like they were done in the dark, by drunks, with a rock hard paintbrush. I stand to be corrected....
If you do go down the aerosol Hammerite route,'make sure you use satin not gloss or it will look naff . The satin I used on my Phoenix looks identical to the surrounding powdercoat and has lasted 3 years living outside so far with no problems. And it's a doddle to touch up chips.
If you do go down the aerosol Hammerite route,'make sure you use satin not gloss or it will look naff . The satin I used on my Phoenix looks identical to the surrounding powdercoat and has lasted 3 years living outside so far with no problems. And it's a doddle to touch up chips.
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