What connectors for a wiring loom?

[Bruc3]

Im after a couple of connectors for my loom to seperate the headlights from the loom, and also the rear lights.

Anyone able to shed and light on a good connector to go for?

[ch427]

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...

plenty here

[iiyama]

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...

Weather proof connectors.

[anonymous-user]

I second those weatherproof connectors. I have used them on a TVR and a motorbike and as fiddly as they are they do look very tidy and professional. My Alfa has similar ones for its reverse and rear fog lights, whether that's a damning association I don't know! Just check they are rated for the current of the main beam.

[robcollingridge]

Likewise. Used these VWP connectors in my Fury R1. Make sure you crimp AND solder all terminals in your wiring loom.

Rob

[GnuBee]

robcollingridge said:

Likewise. Used these VWP connectors in my Fury R1. Make sure you crimp AND solder all terminals in your wiring loom.

Rob

Surely no need to solder as well if you invest in the correct crimping tool and use it properly?

[Bruc3]

The weather proof ones states they take cable up to 1mm.

Will the be big enough?

Bruce

[iiyama]

Ive got 1mm thinwall cable in my loom and it hasnt melted yet....!!

[ch427]

Bruc3 said:

The weather proof ones states they take cable up to 1mm.

Will the be big enough?

Bruce

depends on what lights you have, standard type headlights etc should be ok

[GnuBee]

1mm thinwall is somewhere around a 16A nominal rating which is enough so handle a headlight of 192 watts - basically it's enough and won't melt.

I've used VWP, Polevolt before but for Superseals I used http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/superseal-connectors... and also purchased the crimper from then (the right crimper will crimp the connector to the wire and also crimp the wire seal properly).

Edited by GnuBee on Sunday 29th April 08:41

[migwell2]

As an ex-auto electrican we always crimped and soldered, never just crimp if you want a proper job

[anonymous-user]

migwell2 said:

As an ex-auto electrican we always crimped and soldered, never just crimp if you want a proper job

Well i hope you did you wire strain relief properly then!


(nobody( OE auto/aero or motorsport) solders any more because the solder wicks up the cable, locking the strands together and forming a serious stress concentration just behind where the insulation support crimp is actually mechanically supporting the wire in the connector! Add in some vibration and wait............... Use the correct crimp tool, with the correct sized wire and no solder if you want proper long term reliability. On a correct mechanically crimped joint, the wire will actually fail before the join pulls apart)

[Bruc3]

Would the budget draper ratchet crimps be up to the job?

I dont want to spend loads, but dont want to go for the cheapest ones either!

Was thinking of these...?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150803739436?ssPageName=...

Took the first steps towards building the loom today and ordered some cable!!

[GnuBee]

The standard crimp tools for insulated and non insulated connectors will not crimp the Superseal terminals properly (they don't do the wire seal). You'll probably find that you'll end up buying 2 of the "normal" crimpers and then additional ones as you use different connectors.

Unfortunately it's an expensive undertaking to tool up for a loom but if you use the proper tools you'll have a greater certaintity that things will work and continue to work once the teminations are subject to vibration etc.