how to set up brake balance?
Discussion
what are your views on testing the brake balance of your kit cars? I have a 2 seat car, weighs 940(ish)kg. 51% front/49% rear. Has split f/r brake m/c (Ford Ka) no ABS. 296mm front discs with AP 4pots, 240mm rears with Sierra calipers. And an adjustable rear limiter valve. I have not decided on brake pad material as yet. Will be using the car for both road and competition. I'm looking at using a local carting track to test and adjust.
If you have too much bias to the back, with weight transfer, they will lock under heavy braking and cause the rear end to skip.
A very basic way of doing the set up is drive down a road with the bias at the back, stamp on the brakes and the rears will hopefully lock. Then move the bias towards the front until the rears are just chirping
This will change due to weather conditions, you aren't going to be stamping on the brakes as hard so there will be less weight transfer in the wet. And also depending on the type of road/tyres/pads etc etc.
A very basic way of doing the set up is drive down a road with the bias at the back, stamp on the brakes and the rears will hopefully lock. Then move the bias towards the front until the rears are just chirping
This will change due to weather conditions, you aren't going to be stamping on the brakes as hard so there will be less weight transfer in the wet. And also depending on the type of road/tyres/pads etc etc.
Is the car going for IVA test?
If it is then an adjustable bias valve will be a fail.
A dual master cylinder with bias bar can be used but must be wire locked after setting.
You may get away with fitting a standard brake bias valve.
For IVA the rears must not lock up before the front.
Steve
If it is then an adjustable bias valve will be a fail.
A dual master cylinder with bias bar can be used but must be wire locked after setting.
You may get away with fitting a standard brake bias valve.
For IVA the rears must not lock up before the front.
Steve
Hi
no its not needing IVA as its been on the road since 1989. I've completely renewed all the braking system.
I am aware that the fronts need to lock (just) before the rears. The info on start with rear bias and slowly adjust to front was the info needed.
My last car needed SVA but was 4wd (Celica GT4 based Ford RS200 look-a-like)and so only needed a drive by (as they did not have a 4wd road)and stamp on brakes (naturally all 4 locked)
Cheers
no its not needing IVA as its been on the road since 1989. I've completely renewed all the braking system.
I am aware that the fronts need to lock (just) before the rears. The info on start with rear bias and slowly adjust to front was the info needed.
My last car needed SVA but was 4wd (Celica GT4 based Ford RS200 look-a-like)and so only needed a drive by (as they did not have a 4wd road)and stamp on brakes (naturally all 4 locked)
Cheers
JontyR has the right idea, if you have a friendly garage then you can get an idea of how the balance is on their MOT brake tester.
as for pads I moved from OE Sierra Pads to Mintex 1144 on the front and got a real feel of how hard I was braking and not that horrible feeling that the Pads were like blocks of wood, so it's trail and error, just be cautious!!
JohnEm (Striker owner)
as for pads I moved from OE Sierra Pads to Mintex 1144 on the front and got a real feel of how hard I was braking and not that horrible feeling that the Pads were like blocks of wood, so it's trail and error, just be cautious!!
JohnEm (Striker owner)
Jack up one side of the car so that front and rear wheels are off the ground. Get someone in the drivers seat and press the brake peddle just enough so that you can not rotate the front wheel, at this point the rear wheel should rotate reasonably freely. If it doesn't, then adjust until it does.
Good starting point and then road test.
Good starting point and then road test.
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