Bike Engined Cars...
Discussion
Hi,
I'm considering buying a CBR1000 engined car, however I'm not that familiar with bike engines (this will be my first one!). So I've got a few questions that I would appreciate someone answering.
1. Are they easy to service?
2. Regular oil change?
3. Do I treat/maintain like a normal car engine?
4. What should I be looking out for in regards to
damage/wear and tear?
Thanks in advance
Phil
I'm considering buying a CBR1000 engined car, however I'm not that familiar with bike engines (this will be my first one!). So I've got a few questions that I would appreciate someone answering.
1. Are they easy to service?
2. Regular oil change?
3. Do I treat/maintain like a normal car engine?
4. What should I be looking out for in regards to
damage/wear and tear?
Thanks in advance
Phil
pdw709 said:
1. Are they easy to service?
2. Regular oil change?
3. Do I treat/maintain like a normal car engine?
4. What should I be looking out for in regards to
damage/wear and tear?
1. yep not really any different to a car engine, just slightly different packaging - these are mass production engines, and bikes have to be easy to service too.
2. same as any other car, it's a reasonable idea.
3. yep.
4. transmission is likely to be the first thing to wear. clutch will be first, but this is ALOT easier to change than a car engine, can be done in as little as an hour. gearsets can get worn depending on use, it's a dog engagement, and the dogs wear if box is abused.
Arthur Jackson said:
5. How long will the clutch last?
5. how long is a piece of string. mine is still fine after 8k miles. but as I said it's simple and cheap to change.
moomin
Easy to service and repair, and as has been said transmission is something to look out for. I have also seen some issues with overheating in some installation.
If I had a choice for a small light car it would be bike engine every time.
There is nothing like the sound of a bike at 12000 RPM changing up through its sequential box...magic.
If I had a choice for a small light car it would be bike engine every time.
There is nothing like the sound of a bike at 12000 RPM changing up through its sequential box...magic.
I have a Hayabusa engined XTR2 and it's fantastic.
Overheating was a problem but that was due to a slight plumbing issue.
The biggest issue was getting through the SVA emissions test. Our engine is a 2000 model. As I understand it, in a bike it's not subject an emissions test. As soon as it goes into a car, it has to pass the same tests as any other car engine of the same age. If it wasn't for a very friendly SVA tester I'd still be there.
Cheers
Rob
Overheating was a problem but that was due to a slight plumbing issue.
The biggest issue was getting through the SVA emissions test. Our engine is a 2000 model. As I understand it, in a bike it's not subject an emissions test. As soon as it goes into a car, it has to pass the same tests as any other car engine of the same age. If it wasn't for a very friendly SVA tester I'd still be there.
Cheers
Rob
Quite simply, it comes down to the quality of installation. In principle it should be no different from a regular car, but it comes down to how well the car has been designed. Take a look over the car, and check the basics:
- How easy is it to reach oil and coolant fillers
- How do you check the oil? Mine has the little window rather than a dipstick, and this is hidden behind the petrol tank. A little mirror on a stick (£5) sorts that.
- Where is the oil filter - easy to remove?
- Spark plugs accessible?
- Are the electricals accessible?
- If it's chain driven, does it use a Scottoiler?
- Worst case, how easy is it to lift out the engine and/or remove the gearbox?
Cooling might be an issue, but again that's to do with execution rather than the engine. Mine actually is better than a K-series Caterham. You always have the option to fit a larger radiator or larger fan (and of course a fan override switch).
Clutches can be a weak point, as the engine is pulling more weight, and the clutch tends to be rather digital in nature (on/off). Ask to try a few stop-starts to get a feel for the clutch action. In use, you will learn to avoid hill starts. It's unlikely to be an issue if you are reasonably careful and don't make a habit of rush hour driving.
All in, you really shouldn't worry too much. Get the Haynes manual for the bike, try and find specific experience of both the engine (from bike forums?) and the installation (other users of the car), and take the time to thoroughly inspect the actual car for the basics. Then go for a proper blast, and you'll be hooked.
- How easy is it to reach oil and coolant fillers
- How do you check the oil? Mine has the little window rather than a dipstick, and this is hidden behind the petrol tank. A little mirror on a stick (£5) sorts that.
- Where is the oil filter - easy to remove?
- Spark plugs accessible?
- Are the electricals accessible?
- If it's chain driven, does it use a Scottoiler?
- Worst case, how easy is it to lift out the engine and/or remove the gearbox?
Cooling might be an issue, but again that's to do with execution rather than the engine. Mine actually is better than a K-series Caterham. You always have the option to fit a larger radiator or larger fan (and of course a fan override switch).
Clutches can be a weak point, as the engine is pulling more weight, and the clutch tends to be rather digital in nature (on/off). Ask to try a few stop-starts to get a feel for the clutch action. In use, you will learn to avoid hill starts. It's unlikely to be an issue if you are reasonably careful and don't make a habit of rush hour driving.
All in, you really shouldn't worry too much. Get the Haynes manual for the bike, try and find specific experience of both the engine (from bike forums?) and the installation (other users of the car), and take the time to thoroughly inspect the actual car for the basics. Then go for a proper blast, and you'll be hooked.
Martin said:
But why a CBR 1000? I can think of at least 10 engines I'd prefer.
The CBR1000 may not have the all out power as say the hayabusa but it has a lot of torque for a motorbike engine and in basic form still pumps out 132BHP. This particular one has been uprated/modified to around 160BHP, and when fitted into a Striker still gives a total weight of around 430kg. Its also very cheap to source given it age/availablity.
I've also had a test drive and it scared the living sh*t out of me - more than enough power as far as i'm concerned!
Phil
just a quick question, do most bike engined cars use dry sumps or some other way of ensuring enough oil stays where it should during cornering? given that bikes lean over, so the engines aren't designed with this in mind
or does it cause no probs, unless you do 100 laps of a roundabout?
>> Edited by hugoagogo on Saturday 23 April 17:16
or does it cause no probs, unless you do 100 laps of a roundabout?
>> Edited by hugoagogo on Saturday 23 April 17:16
hugoagogo said:
just a quick question, do most bike engined cars use dry sumps or some other way of ensuring enough oil stays where it should during cornering? given that bikes lean over, so the engines aren't designed with this in mind
or does it cause no probs, unless you do 100 laps of a roundabout?
>> Edited by hugoagogo on Saturday 23 April 17:16
Depends on the engine, some like my Blade dont need any mods but baffling is advised if using it hard on the track, but a Busa motor can suffer oil surge even if being used for normal road use.
A lot of people say the Busa needs a dry sump but this is not always true.
Firstly, when bike engines first started appearing in cars most of them were cheap engines from badly crashed bikes and the engines were damaged from the accident and then being thrashed in a car just finished them off.
Secondly, a number of kit manufacturers started using very shallow wet sumps to gain additional ground clearance - these sumps don't usually work on car engines so why they thought a bike engine would work with it is beyond me.
They are the same as car engines - for road use and occasional track day use on road legal tyres, they will all be fine. If you're going to be running very sticky tyres and really going for it on circuits with long bends, then just like a car engine, you either need to accept the risk or fit a dry sump.
This applies to most newer bike engines, not sure about the older ones.
Firstly, when bike engines first started appearing in cars most of them were cheap engines from badly crashed bikes and the engines were damaged from the accident and then being thrashed in a car just finished them off.
Secondly, a number of kit manufacturers started using very shallow wet sumps to gain additional ground clearance - these sumps don't usually work on car engines so why they thought a bike engine would work with it is beyond me.
They are the same as car engines - for road use and occasional track day use on road legal tyres, they will all be fine. If you're going to be running very sticky tyres and really going for it on circuits with long bends, then just like a car engine, you either need to accept the risk or fit a dry sump.
This applies to most newer bike engines, not sure about the older ones.
busa_rush said:
If you're going to be running very sticky tyres and really going for it on circuits with long bends, then just like a car engine, you either need to accept the risk or fit a dry sump.
On the V6 Duratec talked about earlier there is another option. As on my car, a "Track Day sump" can be fitted. It nearly doubles the oil capacity (a bit expensive at service time though) and is heavily baffled. HTH.
Martin.
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