Discussion
Err no, that doesn't help, does it.Changing the cam in a Pinto means taking the head off because it has to come out the back of the head. Haynes manual will tell you all that's involved.
As for cost, check out the prices of cam kits from Kent, Piper and Burton. You'll need new followers to go with it at least, and probably different valve springs too (which you'd get in a full kit). Vernier timing wheel is also essential to get the best from it.
Have used Piper 285/2 and Burton BLF40/41 cams in fast road Pintos with twin DCOEs and both worked well.
As for cost, check out the prices of cam kits from Kent, Piper and Burton. You'll need new followers to go with it at least, and probably different valve springs too (which you'd get in a full kit). Vernier timing wheel is also essential to get the best from it.
Have used Piper 285/2 and Burton BLF40/41 cams in fast road Pintos with twin DCOEs and both worked well.
I've got a Kent FR32 Fast Road cam in mine, and it seems to work well. My advice would be to think realistically about how you're going to drive the car, and then buy a cam to suit. All the cams work over slightly different rev ranges, and there's no point buying one which works best in the 3000-7000 band if your normal use is general driving and you need it to be relatively smooth & tractable at low speeds. You will need an adjustable pulley so that the cam can be "degreed in" properly, and this must be done very accurately. If you're doing it yourself you will need a dial indicator to ensure accuracy. If you buy a cam kit, you'll probably get a bottle of cam lube included. Use it generously and follow the bedding-in procedure precisely. Be warned that some cam kits include valve springs which may require the head to be machined - ask before you buy. While you're replacing the cam, it's worth replacing the cam bearings at the same time - be careful with these as they're easily damaged (if you're not confident, get your local engine specialist to fit them for you). Also, if you go for a wild cam which produces power up to or beyond 7000, don't expect the bottom end of your motor to last long!
grahambell said:
Changing the cam in a Pinto means taking the head off because it has to come out the back of the head. Haynes manual will tell you all that's involved.
As for cost, check out the prices of cam kits from Kent, Piper and Burton. You'll need new followers to go with it at least, and probably different valve springs too (which you'd get in a full kit). Vernier timing wheel is also essential to get the best from it.
Have used Piper 285/2 and Burton BLF40/41 cams in fast road Pintos with twin DCOEs and both worked well.
As for cost, check out the prices of cam kits from Kent, Piper and Burton. You'll need new followers to go with it at least, and probably different valve springs too (which you'd get in a full kit). Vernier timing wheel is also essential to get the best from it.
Have used Piper 285/2 and Burton BLF40/41 cams in fast road Pintos with twin DCOEs and both worked well.
disagree its easyer to pull the motor out as there so easy,far less work to,dont disturb heads when theres no need to.
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff