K1 attack clutch

[V8OWNER]

Can anybody help with this?

A friend of mine is building an attack, (Emma as in CKC), but she's having problems with the clutch..

basically its tooo stiff, she has the Honda clutch arm and slave cylinder, with a wilwood 0.7" master cylinder, weve tried changing the hose to a -4 size and this has helped, but you still couldnt drive the car like it..

as its the honda cylinder we dont know the size, or lever ratio.

basically we are stuck. any ideas?!!!

[Paul Drawmer]

Try a smaller master cylinder.

[V8OWNER]

ok tried a smaller cylinder at the weekend (0.65") still way to stiff, the clutch moves just but not driveable?

any other ideas!

[V8 GRF]

Is the bore of the clutch pipe too small or indeed partially blocked?

[singlecoil]

I think you need to provide more information. "Too stiff"? Does that mean the driver can't push the clutch pedal down far enough to disengage the clutch? What is happening at the other end? Can you see the slave cylinder or is it integral with the release bearing? What is the set-up on the donor car? Lever ratio? Stroke?

[ricola]

How much pedal travel does it need now to get clutch fully disengaged? You could then roughly work out what area clutch master cylinder you would need when using most of the pedal travel as the total volume displaced should be the same...

[Happy Jim]

Or if it's just a weedy muscle problem then you could fit a remote Servo to assist.

Rgds

Jim

[V8OWNER]

I got this reply back from Emma..

Emma said:

The clutch fully disengages, so it is not length of travel or the inability to push the pedal far enough. I can push the pedal to the bulkhead but the pressure required is just too great to be comfortable to drive. The slave cylinder is not integral so I could strip that down and make sure that it is o.k, but it works. I have mostly used new stainless braided hose so that should be the correct size and I wouldn't expect any blockages, though by the nature of the way the fittings work they must restrict the flow quite a lot. The only bits of hard piping I have used is between the clutch damper and the slave cylinder as shown on the attached diagram. I can check them again or maybe even swop them with some off the other Accord. As far as I can see the damper doesn't have any markings for inlet and outlet so that shouldn't make any difference. Maybe I have configured the hose in the diagram too tight. The only advantage I have now is that when I get the gearbox back (assuming that is all o.k) I can check the clutch before refitting the engine. I don't know what the pedal lever ratios are!

Ill forward on the other ideas.. anything else?!