retrofitting panhard rod..any advice about mounting points?
Discussion
Try to make it as long as possible. Some designs even use a rod which splits into two, passing either side of the propshaft, in order to achieve this.
You will also want to make either the rod itself, or the mounting, adjustable, so that you can set it up so that the axle is central when the car is at its normal ride height
You will also want to make either the rod itself, or the mounting, adjustable, so that you can set it up so that the axle is central when the car is at its normal ride height
singlecoil said:
Try to make it as long as possible.
...and as horizontal as possible at normal ride height (to minimise transverse axle movement), but bearing in mind that the geometric roll centre is located where the Panhard rod crosses the centreline of the car, and that the height of the geometric roll centre affects handling.Actual overall length of the Panhard rod (ie. if it runs diagonally) doesn't much matter, so the people who split it around a propshaft misunderstand what they're trying to achieve. It's the distance across the car from axle pickup to chassis pickup that you need to make as large as possible.
Ferg said:
I've never seen one split. Anyone got a picture? I fail to see the advantage.
The only one I've seen (and I'm afraid I don't have a picture of it) wasn't split around a propshaft, but instead had a 'hoop' (actually more of a rugby-ball shape) in the middle of it to allow access to the quick-change ratios on the back axle of a US stock car racer.There's certainly no advantage in running a panhard diagonally forward and splitting it around the propshaft.
Yes, it was behind the axle... it was the cover plate on the back of the axle that you removed to access the quick-change ratios; a bit like you do when you take the back off a Hewland to swap the ratios.
I agree that it sounds more sensible to just disconnect one end of the Panhard and drop it out of the way, but hey, it was probably 'designed' by an American redneck with a welding torch.
Personally, I'd never specify a Panhard myself - I'd prefer one of the variations of a Watts linkage, even if they are a bit heavier and more complex. Having said which, I've driven plenty of cars with them that worked pretty well, and they're probably just fine for road use.
I agree that it sounds more sensible to just disconnect one end of the Panhard and drop it out of the way, but hey, it was probably 'designed' by an American redneck with a welding torch.
Personally, I'd never specify a Panhard myself - I'd prefer one of the variations of a Watts linkage, even if they are a bit heavier and more complex. Having said which, I've driven plenty of cars with them that worked pretty well, and they're probably just fine for road use.
I'd make one - they're not complicated.
The length and bracketry need tailoring to your specific car, anyway, so 'off-the-shelf' kits only work for a specific make and model of car. Fine if you have a Mk. 1 Escort, say, but not much use if you're fitting one to a kit car (though, as usual, you have failed to even tell us what type of car you're fitting it to; I'm waiting for you to tell us that all the advice we've given you is worthless, 'cos the car in question in fact has independent rear suspension
)
The length and bracketry need tailoring to your specific car, anyway, so 'off-the-shelf' kits only work for a specific make and model of car. Fine if you have a Mk. 1 Escort, say, but not much use if you're fitting one to a kit car (though, as usual, you have failed to even tell us what type of car you're fitting it to; I'm waiting for you to tell us that all the advice we've given you is worthless, 'cos the car in question in fact has independent rear suspension
)
Comadis said:
lol...sorry sam...do you really think i´m mechanically so poor-minded?
No, just that you have a habit of failing to disclose critical information and then telling people they're wrong because they failed to take it into account...Ginetta what? And what is the lateral location at the moment?
If it's a G4, I assume it's on coil springs, which means there's already something stopping the chassis from falling off the axles sideways and you need to make sure that the Panhard doesn't cause a conflict with the existing linkages/geometry.
as i can see...nothing!!
maybe "only" the ultra-hard set-up of shocks and coils.
but i must say: i never missed a panhard rod.
it came in my mind, cause i want to setup the suspension softer over the winter-period, as i use the car mainly on "normal" roads and not on tracks (which i guess it was set-up for).
for the wheels: i run 7x13 revolution wheels with 205/60/13
maybe "only" the ultra-hard set-up of shocks and coils.
but i must say: i never missed a panhard rod.
it came in my mind, cause i want to setup the suspension softer over the winter-period, as i use the car mainly on "normal" roads and not on tracks (which i guess it was set-up for).
for the wheels: i run 7x13 revolution wheels with 205/60/13
Edited by Comadis on Sunday 7th December 00:09
Are the 4 trailing links simple longitudinal links, like on a Westfield SE or Locost, or are they angled (ie. Satchell link or similare arrangement), or are the links themselves L or T-shaped, to brace them transversly at the chassis end?
There must be something locating the axle trnasversly, surely?
Do you have any photographs?
There must be something locating the axle trnasversly, surely?
Do you have any photographs?
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