Alloy sheet bonding 'glue' What to use?
Discussion
Araldite still works, but it's expensive and doesn't 'take' to powder coated chassis tubes all that well, so it can sometimes crack as the chassis tubes flex over the years.
Alternatively, Sikaflex 552 sealant/adhesive is popular. It is more flexible and tends to work better as a sealant if you are trying to make the chassis panelling part of a water-tight structure.
Alternatively, Sikaflex 552 sealant/adhesive is popular. It is more flexible and tends to work better as a sealant if you are trying to make the chassis panelling part of a water-tight structure.
There are a LOT of different glues about, I would advise a visit to this or a similar resource and ask there. The correct adhesive will depend on the materials to be mated, working time, intial clamping pressure, curing temperature, service conditions etc etc.
If the you require structural bonding get specialist advice.
http://www.glueline.co.uk/catalog/index.php
If the you require structural bonding get specialist advice.
http://www.glueline.co.uk/catalog/index.php
Why exactly do you want to use glue? Have you considered cleko fasteners?
FlossyThePig said:
Why exactly do you want to use glue? Have you considered cleko fasteners?
Bonding the panels to the spaceframe as well as rivetting them adds to the stiffness and helps prevent flexing of the chassis causing rivets to loosen over time.Ali panels on a kit chassis are normally bonded and riveted.
The rivets provide the primary structural improvement to a bare chassis giving it rigidity.
The bonding provides additional rigidity, seals the panel to the frame, seals the rivet holes and finally provides a barrier to corrosion caused by the interface of dissimilar metals. Most of the above assumes that the panel is drilled, panel and chassis deburred/solvent cleaned then wet assembled with the sealant and finally riveted.
Sikaflex and tigerseal are well known products but in my experience any PU sealant from your local auto factors will do the job.
Steve
The rivets provide the primary structural improvement to a bare chassis giving it rigidity.
The bonding provides additional rigidity, seals the panel to the frame, seals the rivet holes and finally provides a barrier to corrosion caused by the interface of dissimilar metals. Most of the above assumes that the panel is drilled, panel and chassis deburred/solvent cleaned then wet assembled with the sealant and finally riveted.
Sikaflex and tigerseal are well known products but in my experience any PU sealant from your local auto factors will do the job.
Steve
Thank you all for your interesting replies. The car has no steel tube frame. It relies on the rivits and bonding for everything. As it is a real race car (Lola) I do not need to worry about the weather seal, but do worry about the strength. The rivet are a major part of the deal!
The car is riveted with hand-set solid riviets and monel alloy pop rivets. See pic.
Do Halfords sell any of these products?
Here the car is upside down for replacing some rivits/repair/restoration but you get the idea. There is a steel rear frame, but the tub forward of the bulkhead is all sheet alloy.
In this pic the panel join you can see from wheel to wheel on the drivers side is the join that needs help.
The car is riveted with hand-set solid riviets and monel alloy pop rivets. See pic.
Do Halfords sell any of these products?
Here the car is upside down for replacing some rivits/repair/restoration but you get the idea. There is a steel rear frame, but the tub forward of the bulkhead is all sheet alloy.
In this pic the panel join you can see from wheel to wheel on the drivers side is the join that needs help.
Edited by 911hillclimber on Monday 8th December 18:19
Edited by 911hillclimber on Monday 8th December 18:20
Edited by 911hillclimber on Monday 8th December 18:23
I have tried some tapes at work. If the surfaces are clean then the bond can be mega.
I need whatever I use to be non contact adhesive as I will need time to insert and set the solid rivits and the panels will be progressivly drawn tight.
The problem with tape could be piercing the rivet holes through it?
There are about 30 rivets to set by hand.
I need whatever I use to be non contact adhesive as I will need time to insert and set the solid rivits and the panels will be progressivly drawn tight.
The problem with tape could be piercing the rivet holes through it?
There are about 30 rivets to set by hand.
Wurth have a couple of products which might work, one is a horrible black compound used to bond windscreens into cars. I used it on my Dax Rush and it creates a very strong and slightly flexible bond but not sure if it's strong enough for what you need, but I would think so in conjunction with rivets.
I’ve used Araldite 2011 to bond a galvanised sheet steel chassis together along with steel rivets. I don’t know exactly how durable it is as the car will not be on the road for another year. I made sure there was enough rivets in it to do the structural work just in case. 2011 has a working time of 1 hour so you don’t have to rush around and takes about a day to fully harden. For surface preparation you just need to degrease and abrade the surface.
Data sheet here http://www.intertronics.co.uk/data/ara2011.pdf
You can get it from RS Components. I brought it in the two tins and mixed it in pot noodle pots.
Data sheet here http://www.intertronics.co.uk/data/ara2011.pdf
You can get it from RS Components. I brought it in the two tins and mixed it in pot noodle pots.
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