Pro & Con of BEC
Discussion
popcorn!!!
Seriously, this has been done to death 1000 times, if you search you will find the archives. The long and the short is you need to get a ride in both at some sort of meet. People are generally in one camp or the other. I am firmly BEC.
The cons of a BEC are you need to keep the weight below 500kgs to maximize performance. Noisier drive, clunky gearchange, relatively low torque however that is offset by the low weight.
Pros are probobly the most exciting thing you will ever drive, honestly like a 4 wheeled bike.Cheap indestructible drivetrain, good economy, reliable and low running costs. And a decent one will outhandle anything without downforce.
Seriously, this has been done to death 1000 times, if you search you will find the archives. The long and the short is you need to get a ride in both at some sort of meet. People are generally in one camp or the other. I am firmly BEC.
The cons of a BEC are you need to keep the weight below 500kgs to maximize performance. Noisier drive, clunky gearchange, relatively low torque however that is offset by the low weight.
Pros are probobly the most exciting thing you will ever drive, honestly like a 4 wheeled bike.Cheap indestructible drivetrain, good economy, reliable and low running costs. And a decent one will outhandle anything without downforce.
Furyblade_Lee said:
popcorn!!!
Seriously, this has been done to death 1000 times, if you search you will find the archives. The long and the short is you need to get a ride in both at some sort of meet. People are generally in one camp or the other. I am firmly BEC.
The cons of a BEC are you need to keep the weight below 500kgs to maximize performance. Noisier drive, clunky gearchange, relatively low torque however that is offset by the low weight.
Pros are probobly the most exciting thing you will ever drive, honestly like a 4 wheeled bike.Cheap indestructible drivetrain, good economy, reliable and low running costs. And a decent one will outhandle anything without downforce.
Id second that Seriously, this has been done to death 1000 times, if you search you will find the archives. The long and the short is you need to get a ride in both at some sort of meet. People are generally in one camp or the other. I am firmly BEC.
The cons of a BEC are you need to keep the weight below 500kgs to maximize performance. Noisier drive, clunky gearchange, relatively low torque however that is offset by the low weight.
Pros are probobly the most exciting thing you will ever drive, honestly like a 4 wheeled bike.Cheap indestructible drivetrain, good economy, reliable and low running costs. And a decent one will outhandle anything without downforce.
Dean and Lee, you guys are well clued up on your bike engineed stuff, ive decided i def. want one, but as for engine choice i just cant say yet, i had a run in a fireblade one, it was ok but i think i would prefare an R1 or a Busa engine.
I know the busa needs to be dry sumped for fitment so is that why you pay alittle more for one? the R1 engine is similar power i believe but im sure 400cc's more torque helps alot with the extra weight of a car over a bike?
Do you guys know what the best diff ratio is for a busa car? i see it stated on R1 adds alot but not so much on the busa adds. and is it a waste of time buying one with out an LSD for track use?
I know the busa needs to be dry sumped for fitment so is that why you pay alittle more for one? the R1 engine is similar power i believe but im sure 400cc's more torque helps alot with the extra weight of a car over a bike?
Do you guys know what the best diff ratio is for a busa car? i see it stated on R1 adds alot but not so much on the busa adds. and is it a waste of time buying one with out an LSD for track use?
Pros:
Bang for buck
They sound awesome
Cheap replacement engines and gearboxes (except the Busa)
6 speed sequential gearbox, clutchless upshifts
Low tax
Cons:
Motorway cruising - 7000rpm at 75mph.
Low weight means no windscreen, padding on seats, carpets, heater etc.
Flaky reverse boxes
Track day noise limits
I haven't found "low torque" to be a problem. Sure there is nothing below 4000rpm, but then my Blade sounds like it is barely ticking over at that speed. There is a wide useful rev range between 6 and 12k which means if you are feeling lazy you can leave it in 4th and still have fun.
Bang for buck
They sound awesome
Cheap replacement engines and gearboxes (except the Busa)
6 speed sequential gearbox, clutchless upshifts
Low tax
Cons:
Motorway cruising - 7000rpm at 75mph.
Low weight means no windscreen, padding on seats, carpets, heater etc.
Flaky reverse boxes
Track day noise limits
I haven't found "low torque" to be a problem. Sure there is nothing below 4000rpm, but then my Blade sounds like it is barely ticking over at that speed. There is a wide useful rev range between 6 and 12k which means if you are feeling lazy you can leave it in 4th and still have fun.
no, the clutch drives exactly the same as a car, once you are used to I (10 mins) you can do hillstarts fine. I jump from one car to another and do not even think about it. You cannot sidestep the the couch with as much control as a car,as no flywheel effect. But I nice smooth launch with just the right revs will fire you up the road (update the clutch springs only) if you can afford it go 'busa but trust me an R1 with sump baffle is just fine (2003)
Goochie said:
I read somewhere that hill starts can be difficult in a BEC ?
The main thing that struck me with my only BEC experience (a Megablade) was how tractable it was. It was better than some of the very highly-strung car-based race engines.Admittedly that was on a flat industrial estate and it was hardly V8-like but it was certainly far from the nightmare I'd expected.
I've never had a problem with the clutch on mine, I've only ever stalled it when setting off in the wrong gear. Strangely I had much more trouble with my Mondeo - stalled that all the time when I first got it, and still do occasionally now.
Biggest problem I have is that even with the cable fully adjusted, I get a bit of drag from the clutch, which clonks the prop. It's best to put it in neutral when stopped whenever possible to avoid weakening the clutch springs... but it is often difficult to coax mine into neutral too. So not great for stop/go traffic.
Biggest problem I have is that even with the cable fully adjusted, I get a bit of drag from the clutch, which clonks the prop. It's best to put it in neutral when stopped whenever possible to avoid weakening the clutch springs... but it is often difficult to coax mine into neutral too. So not great for stop/go traffic.
Benzini Id put my money into an R1 tbh. Since having mine Ive now been in quite a few BEC's. The R1 feels a little stronger than the blade I have 1 up to say 80 but two up is quite a bit better.
What holds be back on the busa is £££. Modern 1000's are making high BHP now as std. Only if you intend to tune it alot or do some sort of race series would I go Busa. Honestly if it weighs 450-500kg even the orig 893 blade will put a big grin on your face and the cost to replace that engine if it goes bang is about £200!
As mentioned earlier about low torque id also say its not something I noticed. have you driven a Honda VTEC engine ie type R? If so its that sort of power. My old Type R would pull from 2k in top gear like my MAC1 but didnt really do alot if you floored it. Fine for pottering about but you obviously need to work the 'box to find the best
Lastly pulling away. You need to be maybe a little more precise on the clutch but really nothing to worry. Like earlier said upgrade springs and basket would help too. Mines all std and is wearing ridges in the cheese like std honda basket. Springs have been ok but will be upgraded when I change for a billet basket
What holds be back on the busa is £££. Modern 1000's are making high BHP now as std. Only if you intend to tune it alot or do some sort of race series would I go Busa. Honestly if it weighs 450-500kg even the orig 893 blade will put a big grin on your face and the cost to replace that engine if it goes bang is about £200!
As mentioned earlier about low torque id also say its not something I noticed. have you driven a Honda VTEC engine ie type R? If so its that sort of power. My old Type R would pull from 2k in top gear like my MAC1 but didnt really do alot if you floored it. Fine for pottering about but you obviously need to work the 'box to find the best
Lastly pulling away. You need to be maybe a little more precise on the clutch but really nothing to worry. Like earlier said upgrade springs and basket would help too. Mines all std and is wearing ridges in the cheese like std honda basket. Springs have been ok but will be upgraded when I change for a billet basket
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff