Powder Coating Chassis with Electrostatic Magic
Discussion
Hi, I've made some modes to the chassis of my car. Most of the chasssis is 16g 40mm² box section with a few bits of 3mm sheet where the bulkheads are. Now its time to powder coat thye modified areas gloss black.
I'm usung a 1300w infra red halogen lamp, and it is not making much impact as it cannot get the chassis warm enough. The powder melts to a dull black half cured finish and won't go much further.
Part of the chassis has GRP bodywork atatched (the center tub) which cannot now be removed, so it can't go in an oven, but I am working at the bulkheads so a good 18" from any GRP.
Does anyone have any ideas for a heat source which will help the powder cure but not melt my GRP bodwork?
A paint stripping heat gun will take ages - I have about 1m² to cover.
I'm usung a 1300w infra red halogen lamp, and it is not making much impact as it cannot get the chassis warm enough. The powder melts to a dull black half cured finish and won't go much further.
Part of the chassis has GRP bodywork atatched (the center tub) which cannot now be removed, so it can't go in an oven, but I am working at the bulkheads so a good 18" from any GRP.
Does anyone have any ideas for a heat source which will help the powder cure but not melt my GRP bodwork?
A paint stripping heat gun will take ages - I have about 1m² to cover.
Edited by Fat Arnie on Monday 16th November 17:40
Fat Arnie said:
A paint stripping heat gun will take ages - I have about 1m² to cover.
Have you actually tried one, though? I can't think of any other way of transferring enough heat in a situation like that. A decent heat gun can make a surface very hot indeed, and can be held in one spot unlike heat lamps etc which spread the heat over a bigger area.I've got the same kit and tried several times to get powder coating to stick properly with a hot air gun but it never works. I think the issue is that with a hot air gun you simply melt the powder, but it barely gets the material underneath warm so you get barely any adhesion. I find it all flakes off very quickly (and it was properly degreased in each case).
I suspect that without an oven large enough to stick the chassis into you are very unlikely to get satisfactory results.
I suspect that without an oven large enough to stick the chassis into you are very unlikely to get satisfactory results.
Thats what I am afraid of. EM do not take phone calls, so I ahve emialed them, but no response yet. They state on their website "good results can be achieved using an infrared curing lamp, bar heater or heat gun (if you are not in a rush)"
My chassis is worth £10k and if an infrared curing lamp does not work, they will be paying the cost of the mess their product has created being professionally rectified.
My chassis is worth £10k and if an infrared curing lamp does not work, they will be paying the cost of the mess their product has created being professionally rectified.
Is it not woth trying some really good quality black chassis paint instead? I cannot remember the name off the top of my head (i think it contains a number or two), but I know a lot of kit builders use a special black paint which can be sprayed (anyone?) I personally would not bother home powdercoating, the professionals cock it up enough.
Fat Arnie said:
My chassis is worth £10k and if an infrared curing lamp does not work, they will be paying the cost of the mess their product has created being professionally rectified.
It does work quite well with an infra red lamp when you are poweder coating little brackets etc. which is exactly what this kit is designed for IMO. You just won't get enough heat into a chassis though. Did you ask them if it would be suitable for powder coating an entire chassis when you bought it? It was certainly not advertised as such when I bought mine.From thier website FAQ:
How do I cure large components?
This is best done in a large industrial oven, however good results can be achieved using an infrared curing lamp, bar heater or heat gun (if you are not in a rush)
I asked them at the Peterbprpough show this year about a complete chassis, they said yes it would do that fine.
Reality is a 1300w lamp does not get the chassis near 180deg.
How do I cure large components?
This is best done in a large industrial oven, however good results can be achieved using an infrared curing lamp, bar heater or heat gun (if you are not in a rush)
I asked them at the Peterbprpough show this year about a complete chassis, they said yes it would do that fine.
Reality is a 1300w lamp does not get the chassis near 180deg.
Edited by Fat Arnie on Tuesday 17th November 15:24
The problem Arnie is heat soak along the large chassis, I get that when soldering copper pipe. A fitting on 3" of short pipe heats up to melting point a lot quicker than the same fitting on 3m of pipe. I can see how a lamp may work to powdercoat an isolated bracket, but "pissing in the wind" does sum up nicely trying to heat a chassis with a bloody lamp!
I have the same DIY kit and have used it successfully on small brackets for my bike (which is what I bought it for) but I would not hold out much hope on anything which will not fit into my small oven.
The whole component has to be up to curing temperature for 10 minutes to get good adhesion, not just the powder coating.
The whole component has to be up to curing temperature for 10 minutes to get good adhesion, not just the powder coating.
Furyblade_Lee said:
Is it not woth trying some really good quality black chassis paint instead? I cannot remember the name off the top of my head (i think it contains a number or two), but I know a lot of kit builders use a special black paint which can be sprayed (anyone?) I personally would not bother home powdercoating, the professionals cock it up enough.
+1 for the black chassis paint. The name of the product is POR15. Very strong and very good. Frost's sell it. Not cheap. Problem with p/coating is that will flake. And then you are lookingh complete strip down to recoat. POR15 is pernament and will not cheep or flake. You can brush it on or for best resolts you need to spray it on. Just dont get it on your hands. 3 weeks plus before comes of your skin.
http://www.frost.co.uk/
Edited by mkindyblade on Wednesday 18th November 07:50
Quinny said:
andygtt said:
I personally dont like powder coated chasis as even the best stuff flakes off on the underside... Im intending to 2 pack paint mine with proper etch primer etc... more expensive yes, but worth it for an expensive chasis.
This is the approach I'd take..This chassis had exactly that process about 13 years ago..
Sand blasted
Etch primed
2 pack
laquer
Wax oil
Before steam cleaning last week
After steam cleaning last week
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff