The Shed, Looking for your tips and Idea's for the ultimate

[ezakimak]

I’m looking to build a kit of some sort in the future, but need to get the shed sorted first, the aim is to get some concrete into the floor over the Christmas break.

Its your standard Galvanised double car garage ~7m x 9m, on the back of the block, has got a double roller door for access into the back right of way, a sliding door on the side to push stuff out into the yard and a single opening on the other end closest to the house. I ran some power out to it the other day, the sparky has only installed 6mm from the back of the house to the shed so I hope it’s big enough to run a welder and compressor, a couple of 15A plugs.
Have also connected in a Sewer connection so i can plumb in a sink and a crapper, and a 3000l tank has been connected up to the gutters

The shed has be built over the top of an old single car shed location, and as such there is an existing slab in the centre, and dirt either side of it. Hope to get a good 100mm to 130mm of concrete over the top of this slab to bring it up to the level of the bolted shed foundations. Ive got one quote so far for the supply of the concrete,
$220 per meter for the concrete, need about 8 cubic meters.
$96 per sheet of SL#62 reo mesh, ill need about 4

So that I only do this once I’m chasing any suggestions and ideas about what to put into it, or not to do?
Ie
-should i put any additional frame work in the centre for a lift similar to what Clive has?
-or tie down points for pulling things straight?
-Any other plumbing?
-security bollards, or alarm system stuff, haven’t looked into it just yet?

Other things that i’m thinking of
-air lines around the wall ?
-100mm diameter dust extractors to an external dust extractor ?
- some more opening windows for ventilation?

Basically i’m trying to get a list of things that one might consider adding should they be considering a workshop upgrade.

Thanks in advance
Kind regards and compliments of the season
Ryan in Melbourne

[Throttle Body]

I would recommend LOADS of lighting, and plenty of power sockets. I hate working in dingy conditions.

[Ozzie Dave]

Gantry in the roof (I used an RSJ on brick pillars but if using a steel kit check it will accept a good piece of 50mm" steel bolted in without compramise)bolt points in the floor recess them so you dont spend all your time tripping over them like I used to do in mine(beam & Torsion testing if being done there) some good workbenches and racking all makes the job easier.

[Paul Drawmer]

ezakimak said:

...Its your standard Galvanised double car garage ~7m x 9m

It might be your standard double, but to me it's HUGE!

Get the floor screeded and sealed and painted. It will make clearing up sooo much easier, cut down the dust, and be possible to measure from.

Don't know if you suffer from the wild temperature and humidity changes that we do, but an uninsulated steel garage would be wringing wet with condensation dripping off the roof here these last few days.

[911hillclimber]

Get the floor to be as level as is practicable.

As said, lots of good light, both natural and tubes.

[Meeja]

Any possibility of building an inspection pit in it?

I realise that would be a lot of work when the slab already exists, but would be pretty useful, I'm sure.

[Milky Bar Kid]

Meeja said:

Any possibility of building an inspection pit in it?

I realise that would be a lot of work when the slab already exists, but would be pretty useful, I'm sure.

It's much more useful to have a ramp/set of lifts if you can find space. Pits can be dangerous if you're not careful, whilst ramps allow you to move around under the whole car.

Otherwise, you can never have too much lighting. And power points can never be too numerous either. Also, a good solid work bench is invaluable with a good size vice bolted solidly to it.

It might sound a bit girly, but some form of floor covering is always a bonus, as concrete can get cold.

[Meeja]

Agreed about lifts being better - but not many sectional type garages would have enough height clearance for lifts would they?

Agreed about power and lighting though - when I rewired my double garage, I fitted a total of twenty 6-foot flourescent fittings (they were a bargain! )

Just be careful about running lots of power sockets though - and don't overload your incoming feed. (Although a 6mm feed is pretty healthy) Ideally have a consumer unit in your garage/shed, running off a dedicated feed from the house, and make sure that it is fully RCD protected.