Check My Wiring Plan?
Check My Wiring Plan?
Author
Discussion

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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First my apologies for askin for help on my first post here. I've been lurking for a while just never got round to posting.


I'm just about to start making up the wiring loom for my Midas Bronze. Wondering if people could have a quick read over see if I'm missing anything?

Brakes - Permanent live - fuse - switch on pedal - rear lamps
break warning - Ignition feed - fluid tilt switch - warning on dash?
Hazards - Permanent live - fuse - flasher - switch - Indi lamps + dash
Indies - Ignition Feed - flasher - stalk switch - Indies + dash
side lights - permanent live - fuse - switch on dash - front and rear lamps + dash
dip lights - Permanent live - fuse - switch on dash - Front main lights + dash
full beam - feed from dip - stalk switch - realys - fused live - lamps + dash
reverse lamp - ignition feed - fuse - box switch - rear lamps
Fog - feed from dip - fuse - switch - lamps + dash
Horn - permanent live - fuse - switch - horn

Got others too eg fuel senders, temp, radio, heater etc. However if I have all the above should it go through it MOT ok? Dont think I'm missing anything needed?

Big thank you in advance

Graeme


Edited by graemedench on Monday 22 March 22:02


Edited by graemedench on Monday 22 March 22:35


Edited by graemedench on Tuesday 23 March 13:58

carsounds_dan

200 posts

207 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
quotequote all
I take it that you are putting all the feeds through a fuse box rather than individual fuses?
Ignition feeds should be generated by a relay ideally, which takes it's perminent feed from the said fusebox, and then feeds back through the fusebox to each circuit.

I'm sure it's all stuff you've already thought about but have you thought about segmenting the loom so that if you have to remove parts they can be done easily by disconnecting a multiplug without removing individual terminals.. All things that may be a bit of a pain now but make maintainance MUCH easier.

I've just built a few looms for some race cars locally designed specifically in a manner that the body can be removed with one plug, the engine with another and the dash on another. The main loom then stays attached to the chassis, but again has multiplugs at bulkheads along it's length to make that somewhat segmental should a repair patch need to be made. All things that take time now but will mean that at a race meet repairs etc can be done very easily.

Any advice needed, just ask. But good luck!

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
quotequote all
Hi yeah thanks I have installed 2 8-way fuse units 1 permanent 1 switched, Hopefully this will be enough. But I will add a third if I need too.

I was thinking of putting the whole rear lights on a trailer plug so that if/when I get towed I could just swap out and the back would act as a light board? any reason not to do that?

Also Like you say much easier getting it right now than later so multi-plugs and chop it up. It originally had a modified mini loom, but just seemed such a bodge so decided to make a new one only 4 fuses.

Is the break warning lamp a MOT test? And is it ok to just have it from the fluid float switch?

I've ordered a Koso XR-SR, 52mm oil pressure gauge, 52mm voltage Gauge, And Savage hazard, side light, dipped light and fog switchs hopefully this with the combination of the indicator lamps in the Koso and the mini 2 stalk controls (indis, dip/full, wiper & horn) should cover everything I need?

Big Thanks

Graeme

Kevp

588 posts

275 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
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Hand brake indicator with the brake fluid indicator.

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
Kevp said:
Hand brake indicator with the brake fluid indicator.
Thanks wasn't sure on that one as there is no switch mount on the handbrake but I'll make one up and wire it in parallel with the fluid onto the (!) light. Just realised the Koso doesn't have that I take it I'll have to add one? Savage does a brake test switch and a brake indicator is there a reason why you would use a separate switch instead of the ignition feed?


Edited by graemedench on Tuesday 23 March 07:55

anonymous-user

78 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
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I'm pretty sure that nowadays, for IVA, your fog lights should only work with dipped or main headlamps on and not by itself. May not be a concern for you though.
Mike

pilbeam_mp62

955 posts

225 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
graemedench said:
Kevp said:
Hand brake indicator with the brake fluid indicator.
Thanks wasn't sure on that one as there is no switch mount on the handbrake but I'll make one up and wire it in parallel with the fluid onto the (!) light. Just realised the Koso doesn't have that I take it I'll have to add one? Savage does a brake test switch and a brake indicator is there a reason why you would use a separate switch instead of the ignition feed?


Edited by graemedench on Tuesday 23 March 07:55
You don't need a handbrake indicator for the IVA - just brake fluid.

Regards

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
brilliant Thanks guys smile I'll miss out the hand break and I can always add it easy enough at MOT time. Also I'll wire the fogs post dipped headlights too.


Big Thank you. So much easier checking all this stuff now

G

gtmdriver

333 posts

197 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
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I wouldn't use trailer plugs. I would use proper automotive multi-plugs, preferably waterproof in critical areas.

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
gtmdriver said:
I wouldn't use trailer plugs. I would use proper automotive multi-plugs, preferably waterproof in critical areas.
I wasn't too sure about doing that. I've not heard about anyone else doing it and I wasn't sure if everyone had missed a trick on that or if there was a good reason not to. Maybe then I could make up an adaptor for it? Just trying to make it as easy as possible for when I break down lol. I have a load of trailer cable I was planning on using for some of the rear cabling. Should this be ok though but with better plugs and maybe a Jumbo earth return to the battery? Being Grp my plan was to run some big stuff to the back and put a bus bar in. That way I can try cut down on the amount of cables coming back to battery directly and only have a few big ones:-

starter, alternator, rear bus-bar, engine bay bus-bar, Dash bus bar.

Kevp

588 posts

275 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
Re Brake fluid light.

I was advised on mine to fit a handbrake switch to the brake fluid light. That way the fluid lamp is always being tested & the circuit working everytime the car is used. And of course they are both brake related. I know there is a test facility on the brake resevoir, (that is used in the IVA test) but inpracticle to open the bonnet to test every drive. And if your going to put a test switch on the dash you might as well put it on the handbrake.

Re fog Lights

I dont think my fog lights are linked to the main beam. However I did not have a reverse light switch in my gearbox, so had to put a dash switch & indicator in, (used clear side repeater lights).

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Tuesday 23rd March 2010
quotequote all
Ah so the dash switch is ment to short the float to test the circuit? I seeeeeee now. Think your right probably best just doing it and being done smile

Thanks

gtmdriver

333 posts

197 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
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There's no problem with trailer cables for lighting circuits apart from the headlamps but you're limited as to the available colours.
You can get everything you need from Vehicle Wiring Products as well.

The idea of a bus bar is fine.

I tend to use stainless steel captive bolts as earthing points around the car if it's GRP.

I earth all the nearby components to them then run a single heavy duty earth wire back to the battery.

It's a shame you're doing it now. My new book on vehicle wiring is due to be launched at Stoneleigh but that will be a little too late for you.

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
Thank you really appreciating everyones replys and time on this. Stainless fixings smile will do on all bits I can.

Anyone got preferred connectors? I have a few cheap multis but I think I may ditch them and get something better only want to do this once.

Chunky cable to head lights smile will do.

NeilE

98 posts

228 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
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Just in case it's useful, there's a copy of my self made loom wiring diagram here:

http://www.mymojo.co.uk/documents/mojo%20wiring%20...

There's also a few wiring related entries in my build diary, look around December03 - March04...

http://www.mymojo.co.uk/build/build_index.htm

HTH

Edited by NeilE on Wednesday 24th March 11:56

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
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Hi thanks thats a really nice clear diagram smile always good to get as much info as possible.

robcollingridge

633 posts

307 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
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My wiring diagram and design stuff might be of use:
http://www.robcollingridge.com/kitcar/design/elect...

Rob

graemedench

Original Poster:

13 posts

193 months

Friday 26th March 2010
quotequote all
Thanks everyone very appreciated. Really good seeing all the bits other people have learned etc Think I'm nearly set now to get on with it. Need to get a few more bits and a sunny day and start hammering on with it. I'll make sure I get some pictures and show you how its going.