using por 15?
Author
Discussion

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,492 posts

209 months

Friday 13th August 2010
quotequote all
im going to be using por 15 on the chassis ETC on my MK.

now im a bit confused on the procedure.

i understand i first clean it up with "marine clean".

then apply "metal ready"

then i can apply a coat of the rust preventative.

can i then apply the second coat straight on top?

and then what about the top coat? as i understand i can't apply this once the prevertative has fully cured, so do i apply this when it is still tacky?

or do i have to wait for it to fully cure, then primer, then apply top coat?


cheers for any help on this.

matt

ch427

11,595 posts

259 months

Friday 13th August 2010
quotequote all
i know the first coat needs to be almost dry (tacky) to apply a second coat but not sure on the topcoat procedure sorry. They do say it only needs topcoating when its going to be exposed to sunlight, their website has all the fact sheets on the products.

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,492 posts

209 months

Saturday 14th August 2010
quotequote all
right i think i understand this know.

i apply second coat, once first has dryed, but still tacky.

then i leave that to fully cure (couple of days)

then i can either, sand it down slightly or use self etching primer, then apply the top coat.

can anyone confirm this?

cheers


The Black Flash

13,735 posts

224 months

Saturday 14th August 2010
quotequote all
matt 2LT said:
right i think i understand this know.

i apply second coat, once first has dryed, but still tacky.

then i leave that to fully cure (couple of days)

then i can either, sand it down slightly or use self etching primer, then apply the top coat.

can anyone confirm this?

cheers
Yup, that's what I've done. smile

If you haven't ordered it yet, be aware that one of the small tins of PQR-15 goes a very long way - I think I used about half a tin to do all of my sierra donor parts (hubs & driveshafts)


Cat7SuperLight

231 posts

232 months

Saturday 14th August 2010
quotequote all
Also make sure you wear gloves as you will not remove the POR from your skin frown

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,492 posts

209 months

Saturday 14th August 2010
quotequote all
cheers

and i went a bit mad when ordering and ordered

5L of marine clean
5L of metal ready
2x 1L of rust protection in grey
2x 1L of top coat in black
.5L of self etching primer

which all cost £190 eek

and i think i will probably have to get another tin of primer, but i will see how it goes.

and it will be used for the whole chassis,wishbones and anything metal on show.

G5BRA

15 posts

193 months

Wednesday 18th August 2010
quotequote all
5L will be more than enough - POR15 goes on like water and a little seems to go a long way.
I bearly put a dent in a small tin doing the suspension components on my car and the "Chassis Pack" only has 3 small tins of each.

James

covmutley

3,313 posts

216 months

Wednesday 18th August 2010
quotequote all
Been reading up on this recently in reltaion to a chassis. Two routes seem to get favourabll comments- dinitrol then hamerite finish or the POR 15 anti rust then POR15 black finish.

Am i right in thinking that this would be far stronger and durable than powder coat? Seems like you could do a whole chassis for just under £200?

matt 2LT

Original Poster:

4,492 posts

209 months

Thursday 19th August 2010
quotequote all
cheers for the advice, but have dicided to send it back, and will get it power coated for £150.

and have been assured by several people that the chances of powder coat getting chipped is very slim.

and after looking at the chassis, i don't really fancy painting it all.

B19GRR

1,980 posts

282 months

Thursday 19th August 2010
quotequote all
Hmmm, seen TVR chassis lately? Wonder why they're all over POR15'ing them? I've had powder coat peel of well prepared metal that hasn't even been exposed to the elements. Stuff I've POR15'd has been indestructible. Case of do the job once, do the job right. Just send what you've got back and buy a bit less of it instead, it really does go a long way.

Cheers,
Rob

singlecoil

35,817 posts

272 months

Thursday 19th August 2010
quotequote all
matt 2LT said:
and have been assured by several people that the chances of powder coat getting chipped is very slim.
It's not chipping that is the problem, there's no doubt that powder coating is tough, the problem is that it doesn't stick to the chassis.

Comadis

1,731 posts

249 months

Sunday 22nd August 2010
quotequote all
powder coating is a proper way to protect your chassis...if its done right...and not like TVR did...

the powder coating starts with preparing the chassis for the coating e.g.(sand) blasting, de-greasing, than a chemical pre-treatment like phosphating or chromating or even galvanizing is a MUST!!!

thats what TVR never did and most of british kitcar and british powder coating companies NOT do or the client not wants to pay for.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating


interestingwise the first TVR´s which get powdercoated (very early tasmin models in the 80ies) had a longlasting , even until today, coating, because it was done NOT from TVR. that times TVR got it done by specialists before they decided to cut down costs and did it themselves...so all models from there onwards suffered from severe corrosion issues.


ACB82

45 posts

235 months

Thursday 26th August 2010
quotequote all
Make sure you use latex gloves.
If you get it on your skin then it will take about 2 weeks to remove!!

Stubby Pete

2,488 posts

272 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
quotequote all
Sorry to resurect an old thread, but how did you get on with the Por 15 and does anyone know a decent stockist?

gtmdriver

333 posts

199 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
quotequote all
Frost Restoration seem to be the UK agents and stockists.