3000M Brake Pedal Travel

[GadgeS3C]

Wondering how much pedal travel is normal on a 3000M?

On mine the pedal moves quite a way before the brakes start to bite. The brakes then work fine (normal road car use) but I prefer to have a earlier bite point.

It passed its MOT today and the brake efficiencies were fine (even the handbrake!).

Thanks,
Gary

[Fiscracer]

GadgeS3C said:

Wondering how much pedal travel is normal on a 3000M?

On mine the pedal moves quite a way before the brakes start to bite. The brakes then work fine (normal road car use) but I prefer to have a earlier bite point.

It passed its MOT today and the brake efficiencies were fine (even the handbrake!).

Thanks,
Gary

A long pedal tends to suggest the rear shoes need taking up a click or six

[heightswitch]

Have you checked the clevis pin connections and all of the nylon bearings / side load springs etc for lost motion....It is a TR6 pedal box which likely as not will be a little worn around the moving parts.
N.

[GadgeS3C]

Thanks, will take a look today.

Was guessing it wasn't normal but didn't want to spend hours faffing and then find later they are all like that.

Ta,
Gary

[Cerberus90]

Ours on the 1600M is the same, a little off putting on track, still not quite got used to it yet, slightly better with green-stuff pads, but I still want to get it better.
Completely different to my Mini, which has barely any pedal travel,

Have to take a look at the above points and see if we can improve it.

[GadgeS3C]

Yup, same here, can put up with it but prefer a more solid pedal.

Had a bit of a look at the pedal, probably 1/2" slop at the pedal because of the clevis pin at the top of the pedal. Not yet had a look at the rear brake adjusters.

Will feed back if I can improve it.
Gary

[Adrian@]

You NEED to undo the handbrake cables to set the rear shoe adjusters and once these are set re-connect the cables and set them from the centre of the car, once you have eliminated that, then there is both adjustment in the nose and the clevis even of the servo, the nose of the servo is set at 3mm and I use blue tack placed into the back of the master cylinder and slice it open with a blade to measure the gap (DON'T be tempted to go less as the servo bellows slightly after a few miles and it will bring the brakes ON as you are going along!!) and the clevis assembly can set pedal height on the lock nut and thread.
Adrian@

[djc100]

There is very little travel on my brake pedal - it's a fairly standard set up, just a replacement booster, which I think is ex Saab - Adrian can confirm the latter.
The clevis on mine is not adjustable, which is a frustration, I have increased the packer behind the booster to lower the pedal, which gives a much more comfortable position.
There is min play in pedal pivots etc and rears are set up as Adrians advice above.
Are you running standard calipers? - one of the negatives of larger or 4 pots is they need more fluid and therefore more padal travel - - - after saying that, I'm still tempted to put something bigger on the front.

[TVR_owner]

djc100 said:

There is very little travel on my brake pedal - it's a fairly standard set up, just a replacement booster, which I think is ex Saab - Adrian can confirm the latter.
The clevis on mine is not adjustable, which is a frustration, I have increased the packer behind the booster to lower the pedal, which gives a much more comfortable position.
There is min play in pedal pivots etc and rears are set up as Adrians advice above.
Are you running standard calipers? - one of the negatives of larger or 4 pots is they need more fluid and therefore more padal travel - - - after saying that, I'm still tempted to put something bigger on the front.

We have sepearte bells and discs with AP calipers and 1166 pads on our S, much improved braking next to no travel before efective retardation commences. Standard Cylinder too.