Canley Classics Trunnionless Kit
Discussion
Is anyone using the Canley Classics Trunnionless set up? It looks very nice. Would it be a direct bolt in for my Vixen 2500 (vixen frame not M frame)?
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product...
They also have what looks to be a nice alloy front hub, Stainless steel wheel nuts, alloy steering racks and lots of other goodies that i would love to have (if i had the funds). Anyone use any of these other parts?
My vixen 2500 has a long way to go before it gets on the road
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product...
They also have what looks to be a nice alloy front hub, Stainless steel wheel nuts, alloy steering racks and lots of other goodies that i would love to have (if i had the funds). Anyone use any of these other parts?
My vixen 2500 has a long way to go before it gets on the road
Now that I look a little closer, I am also wondering whether there is a "consumable" part that is replacable or whether one replaces the whole upright when the joint wears out. I know some people consider the uprights are "consumables", but at £329.00 a pop, thats a bloody expensive consumable.
280i said:
From the look of Canley's site they sell 2 set ups. one for the GT6/Vitesse and another for the Spitfire/Herald. it also looks like they sell the rose joint for service for £33.78
BUT neither of these are the upright that fits to the TVR ...which is the DRUM version...which has a different internal taper for the stub axle.Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 26th December 17:34
I used these on my v8 tuscan replica racer which was based on a s3, other than a small mod to the lower arm, they were a direct swap, I used a larger Scimitar stub axle and hub, but the gt6 version could use the standard vixen set up. Very impressed with the quality and I gave them a good test!! They dont do a hub in the right pcd by the way...
Turbster said:
I used these on my v8 tuscan replica racer which was based on a s3, other than a small mod to the lower arm, they were a direct swap, I used a larger Scimitar stub axle and hub, but the gt6 version could use the standard vixen set up. Very impressed with the quality and I gave them a good test!! They dont do a hub in the right pcd by the way...
A way forward perhaps ..does this mean that you changed front stud thread size too, in changing to Scimitar hub (or is there a particular one that is 7/16 UNF)?Adrian@
Turbster said:
I used these on my v8 tuscan replica racer which was based on a s3, other than a small mod to the lower arm, they were a direct swap, I used a larger Scimitar stub axle and hub, but the gt6 version could use the standard vixen set up. Very impressed with the quality and I gave them a good test!! They dont do a hub in the right pcd by the way...
"BUT neither of these are the upright that fits to the TVR ...which is the DRUM version...which has a different internal taper for the stub axle."
Just trying to reconcile the comments in the thread, are we saying that the Canley Classics kit could be used provided the upright is the correct drum braked version? This would be the herald kit I guess, or either kit with the appropriate stub axle? Or is there a castor difference between the two kits?
It is a minefield but persons who have been sprinting and racing have used various combinations of componants for many years to suit a particular purpose. bottom line is that you must know what you are doing, and what bits you are using.
if you have a relatively standard car or a light 4 cyl engine in the car which is normally aspirated and limited to say 200hp then the reality is that you can use standard parts without any detriment.
The weak link of the std front end really is about racing and pad knockback, plus premature wheelbearing wear and stub axle failure.
You can use GT6 stubs with larger exteral bearing, you must however use the corresponding upright, you can switch to an alternative, such as the canley classics version, you can also go even more extreme with some very exotic but standard looking kit. It all depends on how much you are into modifying and what you want to do with the car when it is built.
The crucial point though is that if you don't know which bits to use, which bits to modify then don't do it and stick to the standard parts.
N.
if you have a relatively standard car or a light 4 cyl engine in the car which is normally aspirated and limited to say 200hp then the reality is that you can use standard parts without any detriment.
The weak link of the std front end really is about racing and pad knockback, plus premature wheelbearing wear and stub axle failure.
You can use GT6 stubs with larger exteral bearing, you must however use the corresponding upright, you can switch to an alternative, such as the canley classics version, you can also go even more extreme with some very exotic but standard looking kit. It all depends on how much you are into modifying and what you want to do with the car when it is built.
The crucial point though is that if you don't know which bits to use, which bits to modify then don't do it and stick to the standard parts.
N.
That the TVR Vixen uses the drum brake version vertical link is fact and that CC do NOT do a drum version of that upright is also fact, what is new is that there is a Scimitar/stub/bearing set-up that can be matched to ONE of CC's uprights and be made to work (it was my understanding that the Scimitar runs with larger stud thread size that the 7/16 UNF on the TVR....I think that's where we are.
Adrian@
I also agree with Neil, and add 'know' what you have on the car, renew, service them well and IF you are racing them treat the vertical link as a service part and dial in a replacement within your race program.
Adrian@
I also agree with Neil, and add 'know' what you have on the car, renew, service them well and IF you are racing them treat the vertical link as a service part and dial in a replacement within your race program.
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 27th December 23:24
If only it was all as simple as that Adrian. The upright actually doesn't matter so much so long as you use the correct stub axle for the particular upright you are using.
In the past racers generally switched to the GT6 / vitesse upright and the shorter stub which does have a different taper. The inner bearings in the vitesse upright are the same as herald but the outer bearing is a bigger bearing and if you wish to retain the original hub then the front hub bearing face needs machining slightly bigger to make it all work, the bigger bearing though is the one that did the work on a wider tyred racing car, hence the swap.
These days you can buy blank hubs to fit any studs and any PCD you require. plus their are a number of good mods which can be carried out. if you have a lathe and some engineering nouse or an old engineer dad like I do then the mods can be quite cheap.
Here is an example of a non std set up. not withstanding this was not finished, spannered up etc, does anyone fancy a crack at pointing out the differences from standard...
In the past racers generally switched to the GT6 / vitesse upright and the shorter stub which does have a different taper. The inner bearings in the vitesse upright are the same as herald but the outer bearing is a bigger bearing and if you wish to retain the original hub then the front hub bearing face needs machining slightly bigger to make it all work, the bigger bearing though is the one that did the work on a wider tyred racing car, hence the swap.
These days you can buy blank hubs to fit any studs and any PCD you require. plus their are a number of good mods which can be carried out. if you have a lathe and some engineering nouse or an old engineer dad like I do then the mods can be quite cheap.
Here is an example of a non std set up. not withstanding this was not finished, spannered up etc, does anyone fancy a crack at pointing out the differences from standard...
Different top ball joint biggest one I can see, with different top arms, with what looks like a different castor angle to standard?
Meatier drop link for anti-roll bar.
Looks like there's less suspension travel, going down atleast, than standard if those are at full droop.
Obviously the bigger 4pots and vented discs.
Track rod ends look different too, presume that's because the upright is different.
lower arms look narrower too, although I've never looked at vixen suspension close up.
Meatier drop link for anti-roll bar.
Looks like there's less suspension travel, going down atleast, than standard if those are at full droop.
Obviously the bigger 4pots and vented discs.
Track rod ends look different too, presume that's because the upright is different.
lower arms look narrower too, although I've never looked at vixen suspension close up.
Cerberus90 said:
Different top ball joint biggest one I can see, with different top arms, with what looks like a different castor angle to standard?
Meatier drop link for anti-roll bar.
Looks like there's less suspension travel, going down atleast, than standard if those are at full droop.
Obviously the bigger 4pots and vented discs.
Track rod ends look different too, presume that's because the upright is different.
lower arms look narrower too, although I've never looked at vixen suspension close up.
You've got a few bits correct and also a few which you think could be more exotic than they actually are...This is the problem with these cars today. Their are many parts and many possibilities to get it wrong, This is the reason I generally only go to the long time specialists, for accurate advice and for the abuse.Meatier drop link for anti-roll bar.
Looks like there's less suspension travel, going down atleast, than standard if those are at full droop.
Obviously the bigger 4pots and vented discs.
Track rod ends look different too, presume that's because the upright is different.
lower arms look narrower too, although I've never looked at vixen suspension close up.
The upright in this car is actually std stanpart herald, but doesn't have the drilling up the centre! No grease npples!! The top ball joint is different, 3/4 UNF and american. The stub in this car is std type with smaller (std) inner and outer bearing, The stub itself though is very expensive. The hubs are alloy, The steering arms are different. The top wishbone is canted to allow the car to run lower. Suspension movement is free, but limited by the spring / damper set up. The coil overs in the picture are Koni's
The brakes are only 2 pot but bigger whilst being virtually identical to the PB caliper to look at, allbeit with a spacer to facilitate the vented disc. The vented discs are £25ea !!
The pictures don't show the rollbar which is different to the std set up and runs at high level behind the radiator.
The front hubs are M12 thread for the wheelstuds and the rear hubs have been re-studded to match.
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Wednesday 28th December 15:04
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