Discussion
I might be wrong, but you don't have the rigidity in the body shell to do this as your shell is bonded on, it will need cutting off, and apart from lifting and placing it down securely, leaving it suspended as a bolt on shell ...my thoughts are no (of course YOU might want to convert it to bolt on....)
Adrian@
Adrian@
I winched it but no supports, just left it hanging for 15 months...on a bonded on shell there is ZERO floor to support anything, that stays with the chassis.
Adrian@
IF you look at the Ed Stephens thread you see what you are left with a seriously floppy 2 sides and a roof, and when you look at the shell on the trailer, there is no way that a 40 year old glass fibre ROAD CAR shell is not going to be crazed.
Adrian@
IF you look at the Ed Stephens thread you see what you are left with a seriously floppy 2 sides and a roof, and when you look at the shell on the trailer, there is no way that a 40 year old glass fibre ROAD CAR shell is not going to be crazed.
Edited by Adrian@ on Saturday 7th January 12:21
dbv8 said:
I winched it but no supports, just left it hanging for 15 months...
Thats the effect I am after, but what I was planning on doing was supporting the body on a pair of cross members, fore and aft, then winching the cross members up. Once at the right hight, supporting the ends of the cross members on a pair of suitably strong brackets attached to each side wall, with the result that the body was sitting on the cross members rather than winched on strops which would certainly damage it.ETA: thats very much like my garage, even down to the air bottles!!
Adrian@ said:
I might be wrong, but you don't have the rigidity in the body shell to do this as your shell is bonded on, it will need cutting off, and apart from lifting and placing it down securely, leaving it suspended as a bolt on shell ...my thoughts are no (of course YOU might want to convert it to bolt on....)
Adrian@
Hello Adrian,Adrian@
Body is already converted to bolt-on. This should help.
These pics should give you some Idea. I bought an electric hoist from ebay, approx £80 I think. Much easier than a block and tackle or struggling with 4 -5 pair of hands.
I essentially used some std builders joist hangers screwed to the wall. My garage spans about 4 metres so I also kept the car suspended, On a narrower garage you just use some 50 x 200mm joists and you will have a solid platform. I moved the brackets and now use thicker joists but these pics should give you an idea.
I basically drilled 4 holes in the floor of the body at the front footwells and atop the rear arches internally in the shell (no screens) and fitted some eyebolts with big flat washers.
This allows you to lift and lower the body to your hearts content.
Pics aren't good but you should get the idea. Since these were taken I have also added additional strapping to the scaffold tube which supports the winch. it could all be made stronger but it is more than man enough for the stuff I need the set up to do.
In a std width garage with enough head clearance it is easier to set up.
N.
I essentially used some std builders joist hangers screwed to the wall. My garage spans about 4 metres so I also kept the car suspended, On a narrower garage you just use some 50 x 200mm joists and you will have a solid platform. I moved the brackets and now use thicker joists but these pics should give you an idea.
I basically drilled 4 holes in the floor of the body at the front footwells and atop the rear arches internally in the shell (no screens) and fitted some eyebolts with big flat washers.
This allows you to lift and lower the body to your hearts content.
Pics aren't good but you should get the idea. Since these were taken I have also added additional strapping to the scaffold tube which supports the winch. it could all be made stronger but it is more than man enough for the stuff I need the set up to do.
In a std width garage with enough head clearance it is easier to set up.
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 7th January 18:27
Adrian@ said:
alfa-chris said:
reminds me of this:
Some one (or you Chris) will pop up and remind me IF your car had/has the front and rear door hinge/lock support plates that rot off the chassis.Adrian@
my car still has the original-door-posts, but I will have to remove them because they are totally rotten.
I didn´t even have to cut them off the chassis, mother nature and her little daughter rust did that work for me!
How do you convert the door-posts for bold-on?
As the doorposts are glued into the body, are the welded to the frame and glued in after mounting the body or are they bonded into the body and mounted in the frame afterwards? I have no clue how they did that in blackpool bacl in the days.
An S series raised to the roof on this thread..........
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Adrian@ said:
More than help, back to the question of that era door post, does your car still have them...Adrian@
I may be wrong here but I think the steel vertical panels were discontinued after the grantura MK3. Vixens even though bonded I think never had them. I may be wrong however I do know that my car never had them!!The panels were designed to work with the earlier type of door hinge. Vixen S1's were the first to use the Ford hinge.
N.
When I replaced the chassis of my Vixen S3, I lifted and hung the bodyshell using old seatbelts, and bolted four belts in the outer main chassis bolt holes at each end of the sill (I hope that makes sense) so that they were underneath the shell and then curved around the sill. Used the original bolt ends on the belts with a couple of washers to spread the load on each bolt. I didn't get any creaks or distortion that I could see. It hung there for a good 8 months.
When lowering back down, it fitted the new chassis without packers, apart from some new rubber spacers....
When lowering back down, it fitted the new chassis without packers, apart from some new rubber spacers....
heightswitch said:
These pics should give you some Idea. I bought an electric hoist from ebay, approx £80 I think. Much easier than a block and tackle or struggling with 4 -5 pair of hands.
I essentially used some std builders joist hangers screwed to the wall. My garage spans about 4 metres so I also kept the car suspended, On a narrower garage you just use some 50 x 200mm joists and you will have a solid platform. I moved the brackets and now use thicker joists but these pics should give you an idea.
I basically drilled 4 holes in the floor of the body at the front footwells and atop the rear arches internally in the shell (no screens) and fitted some eyebolts with big flat washers.
This allows you to lift and lower the body to your hearts content.
Pics aren't good but you should get the idea. Since these were taken I have also added additional strapping to the scaffold tube which supports the winch. it could all be made stronger but it is more than man enough for the stuff I need the set up to do.
In a std width garage with enough head clearance it is easier to set up.
N.
Thanks Neil this is exactly what I was looking for. My garage doesn't have your roof clearence, so I am looking into how I go about hoisting the shell. I do like the idea of the electric winch.I essentially used some std builders joist hangers screwed to the wall. My garage spans about 4 metres so I also kept the car suspended, On a narrower garage you just use some 50 x 200mm joists and you will have a solid platform. I moved the brackets and now use thicker joists but these pics should give you an idea.
I basically drilled 4 holes in the floor of the body at the front footwells and atop the rear arches internally in the shell (no screens) and fitted some eyebolts with big flat washers.
This allows you to lift and lower the body to your hearts content.
Pics aren't good but you should get the idea. Since these were taken I have also added additional strapping to the scaffold tube which supports the winch. it could all be made stronger but it is more than man enough for the stuff I need the set up to do.
In a std width garage with enough head clearance it is easier to set up.
N.
Edited by Astacus on Saturday 7th January 23:08
Astacus said:
Just checked. No evidence it ever had any vertical steel strengthening pieces like the Grantura MkIII chassis illustrated in the Robson book (page 26)
In the conversion to bolt on chassis they were either never there, or been removed in the conversion...I suppose the cross over would be the conversion to Ford hinges and the associated boxes to take those hinges.On Richard's 2a they have been made as 2 part units (extensions welded to the chassis and then the main plate made to bolt together once the floor/shell has been bonded on.
Adrian@
Well, I've managed it, after a fashion. I am not completely happy with it yet and it may need an extra 4x2 in the rear wheel arch for support. At the moment its supported by a strop from one of the roof beams.
Since the tub is completely stripped, its actually relatively light. I managed to lift it on a couple of very cheap pully sets from Amazon (£6 each!) attached to strops through U bolts in the foot wells and on the rear wheel arch. Lifted very easily indeed. Getting the beams in the right place was a complete bugger in the confined space though!
Since the tub is completely stripped, its actually relatively light. I managed to lift it on a couple of very cheap pully sets from Amazon (£6 each!) attached to strops through U bolts in the foot wells and on the rear wheel arch. Lifted very easily indeed. Getting the beams in the right place was a complete bugger in the confined space though!
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff